Fun fact: we’re also collecting national park adventures from outside South Korea! Although our progress is a lot slower on this mission, the national parks in the birthplace of national parks are seriously spectacular. Today I want to show you one of my favorites. This park defies description with its magnetic splendor. This is Crater Lake National Park!
Crater Lake National Park was the reason we flew back to the US via Portland. I saw the opportunity of a lifetime: to stop at this all-time great national park on the way to our new lives in Northern California. It was one of the best decisions – and adventures – ever!
Our first day in Oregon was spent driving into the forest and playing on the North Umpqua Trail! On our second day, we woke long before dawn and began driving uphill.
Aside from a swirl of stars overhead, all was darkness. The forest pressed in close around the narrow, deserted road. The temperature dropped as we rose in elevation. Soon, our headlights reflected a shimmer to either side of the pavement. Was that…snow?
It was, and this was only the beginning! The closer we got to the national park, the snowier it became. What started out as a few inches grew and grew until we were driving through a snow tunnel!
Kent was concerned that we might need snow tires, and there was a real possibility that the road ahead might be closed somewhere. But I was thrilled: I love snow!
Heavy early morning fog and a slight route adjustment (one road was closed) made our drive a little longer than anticipated. But we eventually reached the entryway to Crater Lake National Park – and it was open!
We hastily parked the car in the lot at Rim Village Visitor Center and jumped out. Slipping and sliding across the frozen ground, we ran to the edge of the rim as fast as we could for our first glimpse.
That first glimpse was one I’ll never forget. The view took my breath away. We were outstandingly lucky: in winter the crater is often invisible in thick fog. For our visit, the weather was perfect.
The sky was completely clear overhead, and sunlight painted the scene gold. It was just after sunrise, and the steep angle of the sun made for dramatic contrasts.
The deepest lake in America was a deep indigo, with delicate reflections at its western edge. The crater rim was coated in thick white snow, broken here and there by craggy grey rock or evergreen forest. The classic volcanic cone of Wizard Island rose from the sunlit side of the lake.
I stood transfixed by that view for several minutes, hardly daring to breathe. We were alone with a view that seemed like a mirage: too beautiful to be real!
Eventually I felt the sting of cold in my toes and glanced around myself. We were standing in deep shadow on the southeastern edge of the lake. When I shifted my weight, the hard snow beneath my feet crackled. The evergreen of nearby trees was muted by a glaze of ice that also served to leave them motionless: the forest was literally frozen!
It seemed like the whole world had frozen! Nearby, a short wooden building was buried up to its roof in the meters-deep snow. Thick icicles hung down from the eves and wrapped the rope safety barriers.
But Kent and I were not frozen. Chilly, yes, but free to move and explore! Once we realized we could walk atop the frozen snow, we set off along the crater rim, peeking out between the trees at each new vantage point!
There was so much to look at in this winter wonderland! The brightening sky illuminated more and more, and the scene only became more spectacular. The shape of Wizard Island! Those hunching, frozen pines! The blue of the lake!
A sign pointed the way to West Rim Trail. To our delight, it was marked by snowshoe prints and cross-country skiing tracks. We took just one look at this trail and each other. We knew what we must do: we would run Crater Lake National Park!
After a hurried scramble back down to the car for hats, extra gloves and double sweaters, we set off. Although the air was crisp and cold, the rising sun warmed my back. I was soon also warmed by movement.
Progress was slow in the thick snow, but we were in no hurry. Where the snow was hard, we ran at an easy pace. At some points, we crunched through the top layer into the snow – and there we hiked or shuffled along. We kept stopping to exclaim, to photograph, to hug and high-five. What a perfect day in this perfect place!
Rounding a bend, we reached a scenic lookout called First Views where we stood transfixed all over again. There are so many pretty places out there, but Crater Lake National Park in the winter has to be one of the best. My face hurt from grinning at it.
The clear volcanic lake was striking, the frozen trees were like creatures out of a fairy tale and the snow itself glittered so brightly that it seemed as though we were walking on a carpet of diamonds. Yes, the sun was truly smiling on us that day.
We continued a little further on the snow-covered Rim Drive, but the trail petered out. I could have stayed forever, but we had to go back.
On the return trip, we noticed more of the details that made the scene magical. The trees were indeed frozen rather than snowcapped. That, combined with the layer of ice over softer snow made us wonder if there had been a freezing fog the previous night. Whatever the reason for it, the scenery the day of our visit was truly outstanding.
I savored the sights and sounds on this return trip, and concluded that we’d been given a rare gift with this experience. I told Kent it was my favorite, and he bought me a t-shirt at the gift shop. After one last look, we bid Crater Lake National Park a difficult goodbye as we drove downhill and away from the snow.
Go. Please go to this beautiful park. I promise you won’t regret it – it’s the best! Learn more about Crater Lake National Park, its trails and seasonal closures here. And discover more incredible national parks in the US over here.