The sun was shining, bright and warm. A handful of wispy white clouds served only to decorate the wide blue sky. It was the perfect day to climb Mt. Ka’ala – and there would never be another one like it.
In classic KnC fashion, we descended on our new home hungry for new trails and summits. Our very first weekend on island, and we just had to go climb the highest peak on O’ahu! Knowing what I know now, I’m so glad we went for it.
As it turned out, that brilliant day in early June was one of the only days like it in the summer and fall of 2022. We run on either side of the mountain every week, and have scarcely seen it for more than an hour or two at a time ever since. Turns out, the conditions on the mountain are usually wet: if it’s not actively raining, it’s likely socked in and foggy! Conditions during our climb were perfect, and we’d been far luckier than we realized to get such a great day.
We left well before dawn on a Friday morning, not knowing quite what to expect. We’d done as much research as we could, but conditions in Hawai’i can be unpredictable. Trail reports that we’d read were mostly positive, and the weather seemed mainly promising. And so we set off to stand atop Mt. Ka’ala!
Our main concern at the time was actually crossing local hunting grounds! We’d learned that the area was part of a hunting reserve, and were concerned about both being visible in the foliage and encountering anything unpleasant on our journey. But this concern wound up being unfounded: we neither saw nor heard any evidence of hunting.
The risks we did encounter were different from what we’d expected. When we first started to climb, I didn’t know enough about Hawaiian trails to be nervous. I knew we might encounter a few ropes, but I was full of enthusiasm for new-home exploration. I’ve been on ropes before in Korea, and I’m so much stronger now than I was then.
The first four kilometers were a breeze. We made quick work of a forest road, then found ourselves weaving through the forest on a slightly more rugged single-track trail. The climb got gradually steeper, but with blue skies overhead and that familiar feeling of moving swiftly through the forest, all was well.
Reaching the ridge was when I got my first true taste of Hawaiian trails. We paused to look around, and the beauty was breathtaking. We were high above a lush green valley, near the midpoint of a horseshoe shaped ridge. To either side of the ridge, steep, fluted valleys were carved into the mountainside.
But the best part was this: beyond our ridge, there was a second, slightly higher ridge – and in between, a plunging valley brimming with wild, untouched native forest. It was thrilling to peek into its steep depths and wonder about the ecological riches unseen in those woods. Some of them revealed themselves to us: like my first ʻōhiʻa lehua!
It seemed like this was the moment our Mt. Ka’ala hike truly began. We turned right (south) to follow the invasive species fence. I was grateful for that fence, not only because it protected the secret forest behind it, but also because I could cling to it!
There were times when I could walk or jog forward like normal. However, there were equally many times when the trail became a chute with crumbly red dirt underfoot. I grasped the fence with one hand or both to haul myself onward.
Even this was not the trickiest part! After gaining the ridge, the trail had mostly flattened out. We still had the main ascent of Mt. Ka’ala ahead of us!
It was on this section that we could look forward to a few roped-up climbs plus a ladder! The rocky wall of the mountain became more impressive and more daunting the closer we drew to it. Finally, it was time to go up!
As I mentioned earlier, I didn’t know enough to be scared. This was our first hike on island, so I just felt excited. This can sometimes transition suddenly into anxiety – because, believe it or not, much as I love mountains, I have intense vertigo – so I was grateful that on this day it did not.
Kent and I took turns in the lead for the big climb. Although we’d thought we were on our own on the mountain, we eventually passed a couple of elders making a big day of it! We cheered them on, but then deliberately paced ourselves ahead. We’ve found that when doing something challenging, it’s a bit easier to have a buffer as opposed to an audience.
But this was merely a precaution. We were climbing strong and feeling good about it. If I stopped to think about it, the verticality of the slope was pretty extreme. Not wanting to think myself into trouble, I kept my focus on my body, powerfully moving uphill. Still, I couldn’t help but notice: this wasn’t exactly like hiking on the mainland!
After a solid bit of climbing, we made it to the plateau! This is an incredible area, as important to the Mt. Ka’ala hike as the peak itself. It’s a natural wetland, with a number of rare endemic plant species growing. Gone were the ropes and crags; in their place was a long wooden walkway that would help us protect the fragile plant life.
Though the terrain would have made for easier running up here, we did not. That’s partly because we wanted to savor this unique ecosystem – and partly because it was so overgrown that it would have been pretty prickly to pick up the pace!
As we got closer to the peak, we could hear and see signs of our own species. Being so new to the island, we hadn’t had time to comprehend the development atop Mt. Ka’ala. It’s home to several tall antennae and a number of buildings: it’s an active Federal Aviation Authority tracking station. In addition, there were a number of workers up with us, taking advantage of the great weather to trim the station’s grass.
As a result, it was noisier and busier than we’d expected! It was a surprise after having the majority of the trail completely to ourselves. We crossed the single-lane, restricted-access road that leads from the windward side of the island, and began to trace our way along the outside of the fenced enclosure. There had to be a summit sign around there somewhere!
We found it on the far side of the fence, along with stupendous views to the south. O’ahu is an amazing island, with vertical green ridges in the middle and sparkly blue seas lapping its shores on all sides. We were treated to a full panoramic of this awesomeness on Mt. Ka’ala, the highest point on the island!
Mt. Ka’ala lies at the top of the Waianae range, the remnants of an ancient volcano of the same name. The summit is 1,227 meters (4,025 feet) above sea level. On an isolated island in the middle of the great blue Pacific, we felt every meter of that height!
It was impossible not to linger. With the warm tropical sun warming our skin and the cooling trade winds simultaneously cooling it, we stayed to enjoy Mt. Ka’ala’s summit. There were views for days, and we were dazzled by island paradise, seen from on high.
But all good things must eventually end, and so we turned around. The descent can be harder than the ascent, so we wanted to give ourselves a decent amount of time. Plus, on Hawaii’s busiest and most populous island, we’d managed to snag ourselves a bit of solo time on the summit. It couldn’t have been any better, so it was time to be grateful for this gift and move on to leave it for someone else.
We walked along the boardwalk back through the nature reserve. At the gate on the far end, we encountered a couple of hikers and wished them well. Then it was time to reverse our way back down the mountainside.
This was indeed slightly more challenging than it had been going up. I went first on the first few ropes sections and felt good about them.
Then we saw the older couple that we’d met on the way up, struggling with one of the vertical climbs. Waiting is the worst bit for me. Focused motion goes a long way towards steadying my nerves. Waiting for them to clear that stretch of ropes, I felt a bit of vertigo for the first time. I squatted low, and tried to shift my energy into offering advice and encouragement to our fellow hikers.
It seemed to work, and at the very least, I fooled everyone – including myself – into thinking I’m braver and steadier than I truly am. After our fellows passed, I turned my back on the drop-off, grabbed hold of the rope, and lowered myself down slowly.
Having mastered that moment, the rest of the downclimb proceeded with relative ease. I felt cheerful and confident, even reversing down the ladder! (This was the stretch that Kent thought was craziest.) We met a handful more hikers on the ridge and gave them a brief trail report on the conditions ahead.
In addition to ropes and distance, folks also asked us about mud. Mud? We hadn’t seen any, and duly reported so. We had no idea how lucky we were, then! The day after our successful Mt. Ka’ala summit, it was drenched by rains. The rest of the summer, the mountaintop spent mostly wrapped up in a shroud of clouds, only appearing for brief intervals. Somehow, we’d picked the perfect day!
On the leeward side of the ridge, the trail down to the parking lot was even zippier going down than it had been climbing up. We were back in the parking lot before we knew it: a little sad that our adventure was already over!
But we’d been lucky here too. We hopped in our rental car and drove away without giving it much of a second thought. Later, we’d read dozens of trail reports about break-ins and thefts in the area. Is the risk overblown and overreported – or all too real? It’s always tough to tell here.
Know and Go! Mt. Ka’ala
TRANSPORTATION
TheBus, the Honolulu-based public transit company that serves the island of O’ahu, is famously excellent. From the city, you can hop on bus C – the Country Express – to head out to Waianae. Then switch to the 401 to head uphill towards the trailhead. You’ll have to get out and walk at the junction of Haleahi and Waianae Valley roads, but only a mile. This whole trip will only cost you $3.00 USD and take just over two hours.
Alternatively, hop in your own ride (or rented Jeep) and drive over in less than an hour.
HIKE & RUN
There is only one pedestrian route on Mt. Ka’ala, and that’s the trail described above beginning from the Waianae side of the island. Although there is a paved road starting near the North Shore, it’s off-limits to the public. There are fines, and it is patrolled, so I wouldn’t risk it. Take the official way on this very exciting trail and you won’t regret it.
It’s a 12.7 kilometer round-trip with 1,042 meters (3420 feet) of gain. The first four kilometers are easy going, on a gravel access road and later on a dirt footpath. It’s once you reach the ridge that the real fun begins! Take extra care on the way down, and leave yourself enough time to do so. As always, check the weather, get a good start, and know your limits. There’s no shame in turning around and coming back on a better-weather day if you are not as lucky as we were.
Although the first 4k would make a great training route, the rest of the trail is not well-suited for running. There are several sections of ropes and one short ladder. Gloves are recommended to help with navigating these obstacles. Poles, on the other hand, would be more of a hinderance when up on the ridge and beyond due to the need for having both hands on the rope. Some hikers recommend cleats or crampons, but we did not use any microspikes for our hike and did fine. However, we also did not encounter any mud, which I imagine would change conditions considerably.
STAY & EAT
Most non-locals will prefer to stay close to the many amenities of Honolulu or the beaches of the North Shore. The west side of O’ahu is not well-developed for tourism. Although there are a handful of lovely beaches and snorkel spots, there aren’t a lot of accommodations or eating options. There’s also a strong local vibe in the area, which is not always welcoming to outsiders. A day trip is probably your best bet.
There are a handful of 7-Elevens, gas stations, familiar fast food joints and basic grocery stores in the area which are perfect for stocking up on provisions before or after your hike.
OTHER NOTES
Mt. Ka’ala is a 1,227 m (4,025′) peak in the Waianae range on the west side of O’ahu island. It is the highest peak on the island!
The 12.5 kilometers of this hike took us five hours, not including a short break at the top for summit selfies and snacks. There is also a slightly longer, official sea-to-summit FKT route for you to challenge, if that’s your thing – and if it is, best of luck!
Here are a few of the resources that we used to prepare for this adventure, with thanks to the writing of The Hiking HI and updates on the Hiking Project and AllTrails. (Say what you will about resources like the latter, we do often use them when we’re in new places to check on trail conditions/closures rather than going in willfully blind.)
Perhaps most importantly, do note that we got a bluebird day for this hike (hence the title): conditions may not be so perfect for yours. Don’t forget to check the forecast, come prepared, and be ready to turn back if need be.
Want more Hawai’i? Check out the Hawai’i main page! Looking for other adventures in the US? Check out this page! Enjoy your own epic adventures!