In the months leading up to the Ultra Trail Mt. Jiri in 2016, we decided to tweak our training. For this race, we were going to train on the course! We lived almost next door to the course, so why not do some of our training for the race on the race course? This was to be the first edition of UTMJ, but the race organizers had already mapped out the route. Thanks to their GPS files, we were able to make some notes, and we set out to do three big UTMJ training runs.
UTMJ course training #1
I planned our first training run on the course for mid-August, 2016 – about six weeks before UTMJ. It was going to be very hot, and we planned to spend the majority of the day running (about 30-35k). There was only one questionable resupply point on the trail, so we would need to be prepared with a lot of water. We began our run before dawn, making a big deal of starting at the starting line at the starting time. Then we set off on a course that would lead us around a unique part of Jirisan National Park (지리산국립공원). We heard the sounds of Ssanggyesa temple waking up before plunging into the forest.
It took a little bit of faith. The trail that our notes put us on seemed possibly closed. The single-track was narrow and a little overgrown, but still inviting. We decided to trust our preparations and trust this trail, and onward we went. And it was right. We ran up and over the huge, 1180 meter Sangbuljae pass, pushing hard on a steep uphill made of large stone stairs.
After an initial descent on a long, dangling rope over a muddy slip’n’slide, we ran down to the historical complex of Samseonggung. There, we were hoping we might be in luck for some water, and we were! The drinks machine outside the ticket booth was broken, but luckily, someone was already there manning the gate, and led us inside to a little shop where we refilled our waters. It made a perfect checkpoint, because it would ultimately be one during the race!
The next section saw us climb a long, gradual uphill on a gravel road, finally veering off into thick brush. It was really and truly wild. We had to guess about whether or not the trail was underfoot, because at some points we simply couldn’t see it! We didn’t see any other hikers as we waded and batted our way through the undergrowth.
By the time we finally emerged, our packs were empty and we were both in the throes of dehydration delirium. I could not stop thinking about the magnificent act of swallowing. At the paragliding spot that would later play host to checkpoint three, we opted to cut our route short and head directly down. Kent had started to feel sick with thirst, so we beat it down the hill as quickly as we could. In a little village an agonizing hour below, we found a shop and collapsed outside it, guzzling cool water. Despite a brush with dehydration, we’d had a successful epic training run! ‘With just a few post its and bottles of water, we did something huge and unforgettable! I am the most proud of and delighted by this day of all the days!’ I wrote of this adventure afterwards.
UTMJ course training #2
But we were far from done! The next training run was one week later: five weeks out from the race, near the end of August in 2016. This time, we were going to run the final two-fifths of the UTMJ 50k course (about 20k), and then back around through the first section (about 8k) once more! After a brief run along the highway to get to where we’d ended last time, we were on the course! The first thing to do was climb! We went up past a temple, the ruins of a fortress, and back onto one of Jirisan‘s long ridges. It was a cool, overcast morning, so we could climb quickly. Up on top, we were greeted by a truly magnificent sight. The views on this ridge rivaled those on the parallel ridge we’d visited last week, and this time we could enjoy them!
To my absolute delight, this part of the course featured a long, exposed ridge run. There were ladders, ropes, tight squeezes through big boulders and rocky scrambles. There was even an awesome suspension bridge linking two rock outcrops!
It was so fun! We ran up to the two twin peaks of Hyeongjaebong. We ran down a long section of mixed trail and road through forest and tea fields to the temple complex, where we availed ourselves of more water and sports drink at a little shop.
Then it was back up and over the high pass that defined the first section of the course. By this time, there were a few hikers on the trails with us. We raced through the forest, making great time on both the ascent and the descent. We finished our day’s adventures at Samseonggung, aka checkpoint one. Long before the main event, I’d had one of the best days of my life training on the UTMJ course!
UTMJ course training #3
One more practice run before that epic race. This training run was a repeat of the first one, only this time we planned to avoid dehydration and other heat related problems! We ran in early September 2016, and though it was just a few weeks after our initial training runs, it was already much cooler. We stayed at the same place, a lovely minbak attached to an art gallery/cafe, which we secured as our base for the race.
Once again, we set off before dawn, quietly running on tiptoes through the sleeping temple grounds. We beat our time climbing up to Sangbuljae pass for the third time!
Then, heading down, we startled a boar! I had no idea such animals existed in the wild in Korea, and I’d certainly never come face-to-face with one! This large, adult male circled around us to gain the higher ground and stood, menacingly, above us. Without a clue what to do, we jumped on top of some big boulders. His nostrils flared as he took in our scent, and we could see the curved white lines of his tusks and the glint of his dark eyes.
The stare-down continued for what seemed like an age. After some discussion, we hopped down and and sprinted away downhill, clapping loudly and furiously. We heard a thundering of hooves behind us. But, when we were finally bold enough to look over our shoulders, the boar was gone.
The rest of the route passed somewhat less eventfully! We ran up the road past Samseonggung, and then into the forest. We were happy to discover that it had been somewhat trimmed, so our exposed skin was in less danger of being scratched up. Some hikers taking a rest were awfully surprised by the two sweaty foreigners barreling by. This time, we completed the route down from the second to the third checkpoints, and even had enough time to spare to enjoy a bibimbap in the valley.
These three UTMJ training runs were some of the best I’ve ever had. Why? Because I really learned what trail running is all about. It’s about being self-sufficient. About route-finding and exploring. Rationing water and using your supplies well. Mostly, for me, it’s all about being alone in nature and taking what the trail and the day give you: appreciating exactly where you are in the world, and being amazed by what your body can do out there. In addition to being great training for our first official ultra, I credit these runs with really making me into a trail runner.
The story of our first official ultra, the Ultra Trail Mount Jiri 50k, is just as happy. Although it was a one-of-a-kind, never to be repeated event, I hope you’ll read about it: it was a first for many, and the race credited with the blossoming of the sport in South Korea.