The famed Jeju Island lures honeymooners and boasts the Republic of Korea’s highest peak atop Hallasan. Far-flung Ulleungdo and Dokdo are some of Korea’s most remote and iconic islands. Hongdo in the summer could very well be one of the region’s most beautiful. But in your search for South Korea’s most scenic islands, don’t overlook Chujado! This cluster of islands south of the mainland hosts two fun Olle trails, and is a beauty to boot!
With a population of less than 2,000, Chujado is blissfully quiet. Of 42 islands, only four are inhabited – and then only lightly. There’s a handful of small local shops and restaurants, but no chains. There’s also no highway connection and no airport: the only way in or out is by ferry. (This same ferry that allows locals to go pick up a pizza or a box of donuts from cosmopolitan Jeju.) Overused trope though it may be, stepping off the boat onto Chujado really is a little like stepping back in time.
Kent and I went to Chujado on a day trip in June 2016. We had unfinished business to attend to: namely, the continuation of our Jeju Olle trail quest! In October 2015, we’d spent a couple of weeks walking around the perimeter of that island. But we hadn’t ventured out any of the other islands with trails – until now!
We had only a few hours in between two daily sailings, so we would need to be quick about our quest! Luckily, running is our superpower. The two routes we wanted to nab could be combined for a loop of just under 20 kilometers. We hit the ground running – literally!
Conditions on the ground looked good. We’d been gifted a cool and misty day: ideal trail running weather. I was excited to do something totally new and fun: explore this little island for the day! And Kent was particularly well-rested: he napped for the entire trip over!
We usually have a grand time on our South Korean adventures, but this was a particularly delightful one. We had no idea Chujado would be such a stunner! And the Olle trails were more rugged and exciting than we’d expected.
Our run began in a northeasterly direction on Olle course #18-1. We’d be making one counterclockwise lap of the island. This route started on a narrow paved road through a small harbor town. Then it transitioned into something a little bit more wild.
Climbing through thick foliage in heavy fog, we were grateful for the Olle ribbons marking the trail! These came in handy for finding our way more than once! For a while, we were moving slowly through dense brush, batting away spiderwebs.
Then suddenly, we’d round a bend and be treated to splendid views of the rugged, isolated coast. Chujado was as captivating on land as it is on a map!
At one point we ran down to a mongdol or pebble beach. There was a wooden pavilion just off the trail, but not a soul in sight. It felt like we’d reached the end of the Earth, and we couldn’t help but linger here a little.
The next section was the scenic Yecho-ri Gijeong-gil – where a single-track trail hugs the cliff’s edge. There were inspiring views of the coastline and a few of Chuja’s smaller islands out at sea.
Shortly thereafter, we were climbing again, to Chuja’s highest peak: Dongdaesan! Up top, we were enshrouded in clouds. We didn’t have the dramatic long-distance views we’d enjoyed on the coast, but no matter: we were still having fun.
We zipped down the opposite side of the mountain and across a bridge. Soon, we raced into what appeared to be the biggest settlement of the islands. It was time to stop for a stamp in our Olle passports!
On our way out of town again, we slowed our pace through a shrine. Then we climbed up another small mountain. From Bongeullaesan, we did have great views, albeit slightly misty ones. We looked out over the town below from one angle, and towards the neighboring isles from another. How splendid to be on a green peak in the middle of the vast blue sea!
Then the trail got really exciting on the Nabaron Skyway! Here, the trail is along a jagged ridge with tremendous views down to the splashing surf. But the trail is improved with steps and handrails, so it’s safe for all, while still providing thrilling views.
A stop at the local lighthouse was next on our list! There wasn’t much to see, as we’d once again climbed up into the low clouds. But I always enjoy a lighthouse.
Descending, we re-crossed the bridge that connects the two main islands of Chujado. Our route wrapped around to the south on road with sweeping coastal views. Bright flowers provided a pop of color against the overcast sky and steely sea. We were making good time on the paved road here, so we took the liberty of making a handful of photo stops.
We had another, final stretch of forested singletrack before we popped out into the harbor town where we first began. Our route had taken us all around the islands in four and a quarter hours, and we’d had a blast. It was the perfect way to spend a summer Saturday!
Know and Go! Chujado (Jeju Olle courses 18-1 and 18-2)
Transportation
First, you’ll need to get to Chujado, which is fairly remote. You can ferry over from Jeju or from a couple of southerly ports on the mainland. There are three ferry options. Hanil Express and Onbada Ferry Service travel from Wando to Jeju daily, and the Pink Dolphin links Jeju and Mokpo. Our journey was aboard the Hanil Express’ Red Pearl. There’s a handy dandy English language schedule on their website here if you need it!
The whole point of this adventure, though, is that it’s pedestrian. Plan on walking, hiking or running around Chujado during your visit. There may or may not be a couple of local buses running if you’ve got a different agenda. If you’re about to miss your ferry, just flag someone down for a ride!
Trek
Much like the rest of the Olle trails on Jeju, you can make of this trek what you will. Stay the night and take it slow over two days, or zip around in a few hours. Both are viable options for your Chujado adventure. But, know thyself: if you miss your ferry, you will be staying the night, and the accommodation options are not infinite.
The two Olle routes are divided into Ha-Chuja and Sang-Chuja, meaning lower and upper, respectively. Each are about 10 kilometers in length. The reason for making two distinct routes are not quite clear to me, as combined they make such a nice loop (and were originally all part of 18-1). Perhaps it’s historical? Or to break up the route for trekkers moving at a slower pace?
The terrain on these two trails is varied: you’ll encounter everything from pebbles to pavement and metal staircases to single-track. There are a couple of small mountains to climb, but nothing terribly strenuous (unless you want it to be…). Don’t forget to collect your Olle passport stamps!
Stay & Eat
Having a twice-daily ferry means that you don’t necessarily need to stay over: we did not. However, it’s also nice to have that as an option! There are a bunch of minbaks, pensions and other homestay-style accommodations on island. One motel and a couple BnBs are specifically recommended by the Olle trail folks – check that out here.
We were tight on time for our short trip, so we packed our own snacks and did not sample the local fare. However, as a plant-based person, I’m always cautious about buying food anyways – particularly in seaside locales! There are a few marts and cafes, so there is definitely food to be had. I just can’t offer too much advice in this regard – sorry!
Communicate
As always, it’s a huge boon to know even a little Korean. It’s much appreciated by locals and can be useful for you too. If your language skills are rusty or nonexistent, use a phone translator, or better yet, bring a Korean friend. Although English is widely spoken across South Korea, don’t expect local elders to be fluent. You may encounter someone who is eager to practice a second or third language, but you could just as easily run into someone who’d rather leap not linguistic hurdles on your behalf. That said, mutual smiling always goes a long way, in my personal experience!
Climate
Our adventure took place on an unseasonably cool summer day – but the fog we experienced is not uncommon. In general, Jeju is known as a pretty windy place too. So the moral of this story is: bring a jacket! Summer is likely the most comfortable option for easy trekking, but check the weather before heading out! Storms can and do cancel ferry crossings, so it’s definitely good to make a plan b, just in case!
Other notes
Chujado makes an awesome, stand-alone run or trek and comes highly recommended as an adventure. Get after it!
If you’re interested in more routes like this, you’ll want to check out the rest of the Jeju Olle! There are 27 trails in total, including a ring of 21 around the perimeter of Jeju Island. The other routes explore offshore islands (including two others, besides Chujado!) and head to points inland. Jeju is also a terrific destination for hiking (hello, Hallasan!), and you can bike around the island on a paved path parallel to the Olle-gil as well!
Get maps and more info on the Jeju Olle here and check out the Olle community here. And happy trails to Chujado – it’s well worth it! 🙂
