This won’t last forever, I reminded myself as I blazed down a dirt road under leafy palms. I focused on enjoying the scenery as much as I could before the going got tough. But kilometer after kilometer ticked by, and I continued feeling strong. The rugged karst formations never stopped amazing me, and neither did my body. Maybe it was a little bit of birthday luck, maybe it was the course or maybe it was just my time to shine. Turns out, the good times did last on The Magnificent Merapoh Trail (TMMT) 100k!
Road to this race
The 2019 TMMT 100k was a race that we simply had to do. It was scheduled to start on my birthday: and there was nothing I’d rather do for my special day. It was located in peninsular Malaysia: a place where we’ve lived and worked – but hadn’t yet raced. Best of all, the 100k course featured multiple caves and river crossings: a real jungle adventure! And, proceeds from race fees would go towards preserving this beautiful area. If that’s not a recipe for awesome, I don’t know what is!
Still, we didn’t sign up immediately. The Friday night race start, in combination with our distance from the race venue, presented a challenge. But not an insurmountable one, I argued, as I convinced my partner-in-crime to sign up. As it turned out, we needn’t have worried: with regular classes wrapping up the week before, our schedule for the latter half of race week was wide open!
We arrived in Malaysia with an extra full day before TMMT, and spent it playing in Kuala Lumpur. I tried a rainbow of tropical fruit juices, swam in a rooftop pool and enjoyed nearly everything on the menu at a vegan sushi restaurant. It was the perfect birthday getaway!
The following day was Friday: race day! But first we needed to get to TMMT’s location in the heart of peninsular Malaysia. We rented a car, filled it with fun snacks, and spent the next few hours driving through some stunning scenery. On the road, we even met some race participants!
We’d decided to rent a local room rather than camp out. Although the race organizers provided dorm-style accommodation as well, I wanted us to have a nice home base of our own where we could rest easily and prepare our own food. But that would come later!
First, it was time to check-in and get our bib numbers. Kent was a fun 1011 and I was 1504, which felt lucky although I couldn’t put my finger on why. Almost as soon as we arrived, we met Been and Sungsik – two Korean friends! It had been ages since we’d seen Been, and Kent had actually maybe convinced Sungsik to join the race!
Together we listened to the race briefing and learned about all of the wildlife we might encounter out in the jungle! The race director warned us about the armed guards who would check our mandatory gear…or maybe scare away any encroaching beasts. I felt thrilled to think we would be running in a place where rhinos also roamed. Even if we didn’t see tigers, perhaps one might see us…
Near the end of the briefing, the organizer of the Asia Trail Master competition took the stage. He called upon some of the athletes competing in this year’s TMMT 100k – and I was delighted to be among them! And then Been and I were asked to do an interview with the creators of the videos that had inspired me to join this race! It was all very exciting.
I felt glad that we had our own little place to go home to after so much excitement. I wanted to steady my nerves and sleep! But first, sushi takeout and other snacks!
Although our bed was soft and our neighborhood quiet, it was almost impossible to get any sleep. I was just too excited about getting out into the jungle! But rest is good too, so I stayed horizontal and closed my eyes.
Not for long, though. It was only a few short hours between the briefing and the beginning of the 2019 final edition of the TMMT 100k. We drove through a very black night, walking the final kilometer to the starting line. Lightning flashed overhead, promising an exciting night. I could feel electricity sparking down my spine and into my limbs. Time to line up.
The 2019 TMMT 100k
In the crowd in front of the start line, we found our friends. Somehow we’d all managed to wear lime-colored t-shirts and I loved it. But it was one of those big races with a bustling start, and I had no idea what to say to anyone. Or where to stand. Been suggested we run in the front, just to start, but I laughed and gave way to others.
Moments before the TMMT 100k start, I met Tomohiro Mizukoshi – one of the top Japanese runners in the Asia Trail Master series! Of course I recognized him from the leaderboard and other races, and I was thrilled to meet him in person. Also shocked and thrilled that he said he recognized me too!
With enough distraction to prevent my nerves from running overdrive, our wait for the countdown passed quickly. This time, as we set off, fireworks exploded overhead. A beautiful start to a beautiful race. And for me, a new year too!
We burst into a run: fast, but not too fast. On the level road in the beginning, the fastest runners were instantly far ahead. As soon we were all in motion, I felt my nervous energy dissipate. It seemed to transform into movement and I found myself completely at ease, ready to enjoy this race to the fullest.
The 2019 TMMT 100k course began on winding dirt roads through palm plantations. The night air was cool, making it a literal and figurative breeze to move fast. Lightning kept flickering overhead, in a continual display of nature’s fireworks.
We quickly found Been and ran together, on and off, for a few kilometers. She’d walk uphills while we persisted at a uniform running pace, then she’d catch us by speeding downhill. We discussed how cool it was that different strategies can net similar results: my fixie-style single speed works really well for me, but I was amazed to see how efficient her strategy was! When we said eventually parted ways, I knew we’d see each other again soon.
A bobbing string of lights lit our way through the trees as we left the palms behind and entered the jungle. The TMMT 100k course was well marked with signs and ribbons, and not least by the runners in front of of us! More flashes of lightning illuminated the canopy above.
At the first checkpoint, I gratefully gulped down a banana and handed one to Kent. We kept moving.
I didn’t really examine the race profile before starting, so I didn’t know what was coming up. From this great video (and this longer one!), I knew that we’d encounter caves, rivers, ropes and even a tall ladder. But I was ready to encounter those things whenever we met them, whether that was sooner or later.
That’s not usually how I operate. I’m more the kind to obsess over details (I often write notes all over my arms). But TMMT saved me from myself. Only one small and basic map was available online leading up to the race. And we only got an updated GPS file the day before the race, when we were already traveling. So I didn’t really do my normal thing – and that turned out to be just fine.
It began to rain after CP1. Lightly at first: a few refreshing droplets on my face and arms. With more bright flashes of lightning and the low rumble of thunder, things quickly escalated. Soon, we were running through a full-scale downpour!
The rain hammered down, soaking us to the skin and flooding the trails in minutes. I joked to Kent that we’d found the first river crossing as we splashed through ankle-deep water covering the course. I was grateful that we’d recently run in the rain at Bogdkhan: a little mud was nothing new to us!
Emerging from the forest onto a gravel road parallel to the highway made for faster, freer running. Far from struggling in the rain, I was truly thriving in it! It felt raw, primal, elemental to be running in the dark in a thunderstorm. I felt charged by the electricity in the air: completely alive and connected to the moment. I ran faster and faster.
We arrived at the second checkpoint during the height of the downpour. Ducking under the tents involved submitting ourselves to a waterfall. But I was eager to refill my bottles. There was 100Plus (a local sports drink) on offer and I swear nothing has ever tasted so good to me. Except, perhaps, for the small, round, beige fruits I also tried here!
Back out in the full force of the rain, we continued to run alongside the highway we’d so recently driven on. It was almost deserted, just a few orange streetlights blurred by rain.
A turn took us back into the forest and onto trickier terrain. We were alone now, so instead of following the flashing taillights of other runners, I had to wipe my eyes and squint to see the race ribbons. We slowed down for a slick, muddy climb. Each footstep forwards was nearly equaled by a slide in the opposite direction. Clinging to branches, rocks and roots, we fought our way up.
And suddenly, we were faced with the yawning mouth of our first cave! This was Gua Persik, and a little respite from the rain! Inside, it was superlative: big, beautiful and echo-y. I could not stop exclaiming over it as we slowly jogged through, casting the beams of our headlights on sparkly stalactites and stalagmites.
On the other side, the rain continued – and so did we! This was some of the toughest terrain of the 2019 TMMT 100k course. Roped-up mudslides were interspersed with slippery boulder scrambles, and it as slow going.
And then we descended into a river. Two volunteers were stationed at the bottom of a slippery slope to help us step first onto a massive tree trunk, and then down into the flowing water. I shivered as the cold water rose up to my shins, and laughed over the thrill of it. The beams of our headlights made the ripples on the water shine, and we could see little else.
Which soon became obvious, as I ran smack into a huge boulder hiding below the surface. My right shin shooting with pain, I stumbled, lost my balance and plunged completely into the water. Submerged up to my neck, I felt a strong current tug me downstream. But I managed to regain my footing and wade over to the opposite shore.
My skin stung where I’d scraped off several layers and the tissue surrounding the bone below throbbed. But I was okay, so on we went. An extremely narrow, muddy trail led back up into the jungle. Climbing up the steep bank was a full-body effort, so soon I was as muddy as I was wet!
Next up was a harrowing roped-up crossing of a treacherously steep gully. I managed to scoot across relying heavily on my butt for the descent and my knees for the ascent. As Kent tried to haul himself across using his arm strength, he slipped. He somehow got strung up in the rope, which was both a blessing and a curse. Saved from sliding downhill to an unknown fate, he was now dangling by his knee – and panicking.
Clinging to a tree on the far side, I watched helplessly. There was no way I could maneuver back down to him without using the rope, which would put more strain on his knee. And sliding down to his location might knock him loose – and wind up with both of us sliding down the embankment into the jungle.
Somehow he managed to right himself and free his leg from the rope. Time began again as I watched him dig in his heels and scramble up the mudslide towards me. ‘Not today,’ he announced, and we hugged.
A small group of runners were headed toward us from the opposite direction, having lost the trail. Together, we eventually found the right way to go, laughing over crazy slides and scrambles that seemed slightly less scary in a group and with lots of headlamps.
But it was not easy going. The rain continued to pour down, and clouds lay so low over the forest they obscured our views of the trail ahead. We climbed upwards alongside stone cliffs, then slid down on abandoned stone roads slick with lichens.
We entered a second cave (Gua Hantu Menari – the symmetrical one!) at the head of a new small group. The floor was flooded with water of an unknown depth, so we crouched our way along on a narrow shelf. When the roof sloped even closer to my head, I got down onto my hands and knees and crawled like a beast of the jungle.
I heard Been laughing behind us as we made slow progress in the cave. ‘All I can see is your butts!’ she shouted. The cave released us into the jungle once more. We ran in a small knot of runners alongside a holey wall of karst and then through the final Hidden Garden cave.
As we arrived at the third checkpoint, the rain started to ease up. After a few fruits and a cup of coke, it was time for the biggest climb of TMMT 100k! It was a gradual ascent largely on a paved road, so we slowly ran our way up. Turning into the forest again, I stopped to shake a sharp rock from my shoe. Then we cut our way through thick bushes and grasses to the crest of the hill. By the time we reached the bottom on the opposite side, we were caked in the thick, yellow mud we’d slid down in.
We quickly covered a stretch of paved road leading to the fourth check-point – and our first drop-bags! It was time to toss out our trash and re-supply with new trail treats. The thin plastic bag I’d put our things in had barely withstood the storm, and inside, our fresh socks were no longer quite so fresh. But it didn’t matter: our feet felt fine, despite the constant soaking they’d endured.
The sky was a pale blue as we left the aid station to chase the dawn, and our friend Been! The TMMT 100k course ducked under the raised highway and, for the first time, we were on the west side of the road! We were in a great position to enjoy the sights and sounds of a new day dawning. We ran on a wide gravel road carved into a hillside, with lovely views of emergent trees poking above the canopy below into the clouds. Birds began to chirp and sing to one another.
I vaguely remembered an out-and-back around this point, and sure enough, there were the race leaders! Sherpa, all in black, closely followed by famous Malaysian runner Steven Ong. Best of all, there was a woman speeding along in third place!
This friendly section reminded me so much of High1 Sky Marathon. It was incredibly fun to cheer for the runners ahead of us at first, and then for those who came after us. We witnessed a kaleidoscope of emotions on our fellow runners faces: calm contemplation, excited energy, determination and grit. Few failed to smile when we whooped and hollered – and many extended their palms for a high-five.
Been was just ahead of us, but now for the first time, we saw Sungsik! I’d been surprised not to see him among the race leaders – but happy to see his smiling, familiar face running towards us. He reported that he would be speeding up now that he’d changed into water shoes!
Reaching the end of the out-and-back section, we attempted to follow the signage and turn left. Race staff quickly set us straight. The course had been changed, they informed us. We would now be returning on the road we came on, and there would be new signs and volunteers to show the way ahead of us.
Rumors filtered down that the course changes came as a result of the wild weather we experienced in the night. Rain had swollen one of the rivers on the course to dangerous levels. There had even been talk of calling off the race. I was so grateful that hadn’t come to pass!
For my part, I was perfectly content with running on the road on the new TMMT 100k course! It was the most beautiful time of day, and we were running past truly beautiful karst scenery. So jaw-dropping was the scenery that, despite the easy running, I insisted we stop for a photo. It took Kent so long to fight with his soggy phone that this wound up being one of our only photos of the whole race!
Running back uphill on the tarred road, we encountered the 70k racers! It was another opportunity to chat and cheer. But it was short-lived, as we were soon directed back under the highway to run directly alongside a towering karst pillar!
Along this stretch of road, we found Been, a makeshift aid station offering a few beverage choices, and some new local friends! We exchanged a few words with our fellow runners, before striking out on our own again.
This was another one of my favorite sections of the 2019 TMMT 100k. The course wound through palm plantations where the trails were shaded and gentle underfoot. It made for easy, speedy running – and I wanted to enjoy that as much as I could!
Aside from a few shared observations about chickens and trees, I was largely in my own head. I was frankly amazed at how well everything was going: no nausea, no (bad) blisters, no cramping. Just great running! Of course, I knew it couldn’t last. So I wanted to appreciate everything while I could!
Somehow my good fortune did last. I just never stopped running and feeling good about it! I felt dialed in to a perfect pace: strong, steady and consistent. It seemed like all I needed to do was stick to it, so that’s what I did.
I wasn’t sure if we were still on an altered course or not, so I had decided not to expect any aid stations. So I was surprised when we came across one all of a sudden! But I was as eager as ever for bananas and a 100Plus top-up. Here we were caught by the men’s 70k winner – and Sungsik!
After a few moments of stillness and words of encouragement, we set off again. We ran through a field where elephants had recently knocked over some trees. We ran along some railway tracks, ventured onto a narrow trail through the jungle and returned to the tracks once more. It was remarkably easy going!
When we came upon a big check-point, I had no idea which one it was meant to be. It was a delightful surprise to learn that it was CP8! I might have shrieked. We had another drop-bag here! Once again we skipped the sock change, and just added some power powder to our packs.
Up next was another out-and-back that would bypass a second dangerous river-crossing. It was now nearing midday, and it was seriously hot outside. But I continued to lead the way, feeling fantastic! I couldn’t believe how well my body was holding up in the face of of each new challenge. I certainly registered the increasing heat, but I couldn’t be fazed; I’d been hotter.
On this leg we encountered a friend that we’d met in the tents of CP8. This KL-based Australian said all sorts of nice and encouraging things to us and set a nice pace for me to follow. She was eating her way through the fallen rambutans. I was inspired, but not brave enough to experiment on myself.
Earlier in the race when we’d seen these colorful, hairy fruits growing on trees, I’d been so delighted to be in a place where exotic eats like that could grow. Kent was quick to point out that I might be a rambutan, if I was a fruit. Which led directly into a lively conversation about which fruits and vegetables we might be.
A tiny but strong Malaysian woman passed me as we headed back towards the checkpoint. Been, coming the other way, suggested I chase after her. But I was already running my best. I wasn’t sure I had a higher gear, certainly not one I could hold onto for any length of time. Instead I cheered both women on, admiring their smart pacing and toughness!
Ducking back under the shelter of the aid station tents, I took the luxury of a 60-second sit. It felt good to stretch out my back and legs! I offered the same to Kent, and then it was time to move on.
Although we continued to run, it was slower and more laborious now. Maybe this was the struggle I had been waiting for. But we kept moving at a good clip, and I felt really proud of us for doing so. We were actually running the TMMT 100k!
A few kilometers down a dirt road, we found the last aid station beside the local primary school. A cold coconut water was just what I needed! With the volunteers insisting it was three short kilometers to go, we got out of there quickly!
One kilometer ticked by under our feet. Two. But as I downed my last pouch of baby food, I was hit with a wave of nausea. We did our first walking of the race as I tried not to retch. Luckily, I absorbed the calories from squashed peaches and pears quickly. However, we stuck to a hike as we were now heading up the final uphill.
This is where I suffered in earnest. Every arm swing, every brush of my shorts against my leg, every minuscule movement of my pack burned with an unbelievable intensity. I had felt some hot spots developing earlier, but couldn’t have fathomed how bad my chafing would get.
Hiking degenerated into hobbling as I held my arms out far to the side and kept my legs splayed apart. The salty sweat now dripping into my many scrapes and scratches stung so badly I felt tears come into my eyes.
At least my sense of humor was intact. I had to laugh at myself. So this is what undoes me, in the final kilometer of my best 100k? I had no idea about our time and a vague notion that I might be among the top five female runners – but I knew we were breaking records. Was I going to let a literal flesh wound get in the way of the greatest racing performance of my life?
Of course not. I mastered myself and avoided the temptation to sit down at the side of the trail. A kind runner from the Philippines took one look at my awkward gait and gave me the gift of some heartfelt, encouraging words. I let her go on ahead towards the victory she deserved as I pulled myself back together.
I half-hallucinated a herd of female runners racing up the hill towards me, and I finally found that other gear. I’ve never cared about the competition, but in that moment, my weird worry that I was going to be passed again helped me to find the best in myself. I started to run downhill.
There was just enough time for one last encounter: friendly Marathon Mohan, blowing his whistle, snapping photos and cheerfully encouraging runners through the last few hundred meters of the race. He applauded my ungraceful efforts, and then helped me encourage Kent.
We finished, as always, hand in hand. But this time was different! At 15 hours and 5 minutes, it was a 100k PR by nearly 10 hours. By far our best performance! I felt dizzy with delight.
Photographers clustered around, and someone hung a medal around my neck. Someone else asked me if I was injured, and I said that it was nothing fatal. I felt elated, posing for pictures and having my gear inspected. As the cherry on top of this blissful birthday experience, I had somehow nabbed 5th place!
After a few minutes of whirlwind interactions with the race staff, we were left on our own. I came pretty quickly undone and required a stint in the medical tent under my emergency blanket. Although easy in the early hours, 100 kilometers is no walk in the park. And the last couple of kilometers had demanded that I give this race all that I had.
But all’s well that end’s well! Sungsik and Been dropped by to say hi, and Mohan fed me a rambutan. And then for us, the 2019 TMMT 100k was over.
A few hours later (and after the most painful shower of my life!), we returned for the awards ceremony where we got to celebrate with many new friends. What a race this was!
Lessons Learned
The 2019 TMMT 100k was a dream race for me. It had been my birthday wish to run this race’s unique course – and it was even more fun than I had imagined. By entering a 100k with a 20 hour cutoff, I had also hoped we could achieve a new personal best – but I had no idea how we would absolutely smash that goal.
Did I learn anything from TMMT 100k? Mostly positive things about the strength of my body and mind! I was reminded of how much I love eating baby food and how fun it is to have friends out there on the race course with us.
Although I sustained the worst chafing of my life, I don’t blame my gear. My special Italian-made anti-chafe lube held up against a river crossing or two as well as a torrential downpour. But I really should have reapplied it, especially after I felt myself getting sensitive in various areas. It’s just a little hard to stop when you’re really flowing like I was in this race!
I have no idea how my feet did so well in TMMT 100k after getting so brutalized at Mt. Apo 100k a few months prior. Maybe it comes down to those 12 extra hours I spent on my feet? This race was much, much wetter – but the terrain on Mt. Apo was much tougher.
My nutrition also seemed to be on point, which was very lucky considering that we can no longer rely on imported goodies in our new living situation. Luckily, lots of local treats stepped up to replace our calorie requirements: I have completely reevaluated 100Plus and now feel it is deserving of top honors alongside Pocari Sweat. I loved the fruits at the aid stations. And having several sushi feasts definitely set me up for success!
Finally, much like at Bogdkhan, I think having a happy heart played a big role in a great TMMT 100k. I was not completely without work worries or social stressors, but I simply set them aside to enjoy myself. It was my birthday, after all, and in Malaysia! Plus, it was the final edition of an amazing race. I wanted to enjoy this experience to the fullest, so that’s what I did. Turns out happiness is a scenic route leading to many remarkable places.
How I wish I could recommend joining the next edition of this race! However, the 2019 was the fifth and final edition of TMMT: thanks the efforts of the race organizers, the caves of Merapoh are safe for the foreseeable future.