“Ooh, baby, do you know what that’s worth?
Ooh, heaven is a place on earth
They say in heaven, love comes first
We’ll make heaven a place on earth
Ooh, heaven is a place on earth…”
I recalled these lyrics from growing up in the ’80’s with an older sister. But I had never heard them, or felt them, like this. It was nearing midnight, and I’d been running for 15 hours. Twinkles of light reached up from the city below, while this music unfurled down toward me. I climbed the steps to the top of Beacon Hill.
Emerging from the cocoon of a black winter’s night, I entered the party at checkpoint 7. Before my eyes had even adjusted to the bright spotlights and twinkling Christmas lights, a young girl ran over to me with a red envelope, grinning widely and wishing me a happy new year. Her fellow scouts shouted a warm welcome and began asking me what kind of snacks I wanted.
Maybe it was the nostalgic music, maybe it was my hazy state of being at that moment, or maybe it was just all that running – but I was moved to almost to tears. It was the best aid station experience of all time, one of the highlights of a truly incredible race. Yep, heaven is a place on earth: and it’s this place.
Shall we Hong Kong 100?
This race had been on our radar for years. Kent and I had already decided that 2020 was going to be a year for a few special challenges. Hong Kong 100 would make the perfect start to a new year of running adventures!
But first we needed to get in. This race, part of the prestigious Ultra Trail World Tour, is popular and sells out quickly. It offered us our first experience with a lottery application. Luck was on our side, however, and in late July we got invited to the race!
I considered this especially lucky after I found out that this was the 10 year anniversary of Hong Kong 100! The stage was set for their biggest race to date – and ours! Our race would have a wave start for the 2000 competitors, and 5 ITRA points were on offer. It was a very big deal!
Our training for this big-deal race consisted of half a year of nearly back-to-back races around Asia. In August, one of those races took us to Malaysia via Hong Kong. And that’s when the news of the protests there became real to us.
Hong Kong International was closed several times both immediately before and after our transfer there. Surely there would be some resolution, we thought. There were months to go between then and our big event in the city.
Kent scanned the news obsessively in the months leading up to the race. As events escalated, he became more and more concerned about our plans. We waited and wondered what would happen. Would the airport be closed again? Would the race be cancelled? Was it safe to go?
In December, the race organizers sent out a letter offering a refund or a deferral of entry. They reminded runners that the event might have to be cancelled last minute, depending on the situation in the city at the time. But they also reminded us that they planned to go ahead with one of Hong Kong’s biggest and most beloved sporting events of the year.
Around the same time, we conferred with our favorite friend about his plans. Jaeseung, a three-time Hong Kong 100 veteran, seemed unperturbed by recent news, and had already booked flights and accommodation.
We soon followed suit. Although we were cautious, there were also many reasons why we really, really wanted to go. This was our first race of the year – and our next wasn’t lined up for another 4 months. After the race, we’d be heading home for a break – one I was sure we could only enjoy fully after completing a big challenge (regular -40C temperatures in some of our homes being rather less conducive to long outdoor adventures!). Plus, we love running in Hong Kong and were eager to return!
If you’ve been reading this blog for some time, you will not be surprised that deciding to go was far from our only hurdle. We had to juggle an incredibly complicated multi-city, multi-airline flight itinerary and ask for (still more) time off work.
Somehow, it all worked out. We found ourselves on the top of a classic Hong Kong double-decker bus late on a Thursday night in mid-January, headed to the familiar neighborhood of Sha Tin. The city seemed to embrace our return with its jungle-y peaks and neon lights.
Hong Kong 100
Success has long roots. And that’s why I was really happy to feel better prepared for this race than perhaps any other! We’d had plenty of time after Izu for both active recovery and complete relaxation. The area where we stayed was filled with our favorite foods. On Friday before the race, we did next-to-nothing!
We also chose to stay at the official race hotel. This meant we picked up our race bibs at the same time as our room key – it was brilliantly easy and stress-free. And major kudos to Kent, who’d ordered us a fresh supply of electrolytes to the hotel as well!
The race started at chill 8:10 am for us – so we even got a good, long sleep on race night. Good thing, because we’d be skipping Saturday night’s bed time completely! Our goal for the race, aside from just finishing a 5-pointer big deal race, was to run it in in under 24 hours if at all possible.
We took the race shuttle to the start in a navy twilight. The bus immediately took a turn and left the city behind. In a bus full of other racers, noshing or napping, we swung around wide bays; little fishing boats and rippling waters faintly illuminated by the warm orange glow of the city.
We disembarked in the new-to-us Pak Tam Chung area. As the sky brightened, we began to recognize friends and fellows. We met Jesse and Jae, race directors from Korea, familiar faces from the ATM circuit and of course our bff Jaeseung and his gorgeous girl! The normally cold and nervous time before the race passed quickly in happy companionship.
After the elite heat and a second round of fast friends, it was time for us to hit the Hong Kong 100 trail!
It was a classic beginning: a jostling of colorful elbows and knees accompanied by the polyrhythmic beats of different footfalls. The bodies streaming out along the stretch of tarmac under the starting arch made the Hong Kong 100 look deceptively like a road marathon, but the course soon squeezed the crowds onto a narrow single-track climb.
We leap-frogged with each other and Jaeseung, losing each other in the press of humanity and jungle. Finding one another, we’d laugh and reminisce before dispersing again.
The first section took us took us around the west side of East Dam. The initial 12 kilometers of the race were gently rolling: we’d climb into the forest, then emerge again onto a wide road. We ran across two massive dams that offered beautiful views: rocky islands jutting out of a sea that sparkled sapphire in the winter sunlight.
By the East Dam support point, I’d downed one 500mL bottle of electrolytes. It was significantly hotter than our training grounds in Qingdao. Here, I could have seriously messed up my race. In the absence of any known electrolyte drink, I opted to try a new one. The first sip went down easy, but about one kilometer on, I hated the brew. I couldn’t choke it down, and switched to the water in my other bottle.
I did play it conservatively with food: I grabbed just a handful of banana bites! At least, that’s what I did there and then…
Leaving the crowd of racers and friendly volunteers behind, we clambered up and over a short hill. Clearings in the foliage revealed the view I’d signed up for: the beaches of Hong Kong!
The first beach on the course took my breath away. A wide white swatch looked like it belonged on a tropical island…which is just about where we were! I was delighted by Sai Wan’s clean sands and the azure color of the shallow sea sparkling below rugged emerald mountains. Well worth racing for!
After a dash across this beach, it was time for our first climb of the day! We scrambled happily up Sai Wan Shan – a new mountain! It felt so playful, sharing the summit with Kent and Jaeseung. I almost forgot we were racing; it was just the three of us smashing snacks and posing with the wooden summit stele, as usual.
Heading down meant discovering beach number two: Ham Tin! Surfers dipped in and out of the waves that rolled in slow-motion towards the shore. I couldn’t stop laughing: of course this too exists in Hong Kong.
At the first checkpoint, I gulped down a handful of nuts – and stole some of Kent’s cup of coke that I was merely meant to hold. I felt bad about it, but I dumped out the sports drink I’d picked up at the previous aid station and filled my second bottle with refreshing water. I also made a mental note to eat more salty food throughout the day to compensate.
On to the second climb of the day! The steep sides of Nga Yee Shek Shan and relentless midday heat had Kent in a bit of a slump.
Hong Kong 100’s awesome volunteers to the rescue! From deep in the forest, we could hear the clanging of a bell and the cheerful voices of volunteers. Coming around a corner, we spotted the pair all the good vibes belonged to. In one of the first emotional moments of the day, we thanked them for their enthusiasm – and they gave us a heartfelt thanks for traveling to their city in these difficult times. With their kindness, Kent’s tough times melted away and we ran on.
At some point we realized we hadn’t seen Jaeseung in a while. We didn’t know if he was in front or behind, but we kept thinking we’d run into him any minute. The rest of the race, we looked for him at every checkpoint and in the faces of the crowd.
But our next mission was to refuel! We plunged down towards the aid station. I was delighted that CP2 had rice balls, and enjoyed dunking them in salt and seaweed. Ultra running is the best for snack attacks!
As promised, the route between CP2 and CP3 was surprisingly technical for such a simple-looking flat stretch. We were hopping from rock-to-rock and dodging tangled roots! Still, we managed a quick turn-over and reached the next CP just before 3 pm.
The frequent aid stations in Hong Kong 100 were a great contrast to Izu, where we starved! But even more valuable than the snacks was water. With stretches of direct sun and warm, humid weather, we were draining our drinks between each set of checkpoints!
Another quick section led us to CP4 for more rice balls, nuts and cups of coke. Although we saw completely supported runners getting massages and fresh shoes, we felt like we were the lucky ones! The volunteers were eager to fill our bottles for us and help us find our favorite snacks. Each check point was busy, yet friendly.
One of our mini missions had been to run through each aid station in 3 minutes or less. So far, we were crushing that goal! We tossed down snacks and ran away before we even caught our breath. I’m pretty decent at eating on the run, but I was especially proud of Kent for his swiftness. He even chugged a coffee at a jog!
Kai Kung Shan means ‘Rooster Hill’ and it was our last hurrah in the daylight. We rejoiced in the incredible views: islands popping up from a calm and endless sea under dramatic low-hanging clouds.
We zig-zagged our way down the other side of the hill and into the big checkpoint at number five. This was where our drop-bag was: more of our favorite snacks and electrolytes, fresh t-shirts, and our trekking poles for the tougher second half of the race. We spent slightly longer than planned here, searching for a space among the masses of runners on every available surface and lounging on the grass.
By the time we left, night was really setting in. But we were ready for it. Headlamps on, we headed off into the second half of the race.
Shortly after CP5, there was a mandatory gear check. Once again, I was blown away with the friendly, professional Hong Kong 100 volunteers. I didn’t even have to pull out my own gear for checking! My own personal volunteer did so, and I left feeling like a VIP.
The next part of the race was on a wide, level road: perfect for switching over into night running – and a long ascent. We were climbing up Ma On Shan – another new mountain!
The longest section of the race was meditative. I felt keenly aware of my body and found it easy to dial in to the perfect climbing pace.
Kent and I didn’t talk much until we reached the ridge: where incredible views spread out below. For the hundredth time that day, I fell in love with Hong Kong all over again. High over the city lights, running fast felt like flying.
After running hot all day, a stiff breeze blew along the mountaintops. At first it felt refreshing. Then it felt cold. So I put on my jacket and didn’t take it off again.
We ducked back into the forest and I began to feel sleepy for the first time. Again acutely aware of my body, I recognized tiredness, but knew I could handle it. I was not the sleepiest I’d ever been, nor was I dreaming of naps. I had some of my caffeinated sports drink, and carried on.
Soon we reached Gilwell Camp – checkpoint 6 and the first of the aid stations staffed by friendly scouts! I had a cup of ginger tea – thinking it would warm my chilly hands – and a peanut butter sandwich that called to me at the time. Neither digested particularly well, but again, it was nothing beyond normal.
I completely forgot about my stomachache as we ran on the easy ridge-side road linking CP6 and CP7. The city sparkling below was truly a sight to behold. Running in Hong Kong is pure happiness: fast flats, steep mountains, beautiful beaches and sparkly cityscapes like this. It’s really got it all.
We rolled in to the best aid station on earth – aka Beacon Hill – after two hours of ridge running. From there on, we’d be covering familiar ground. The last portion of the Hong Kong 100 course would have us running in reverse on the 9 Dragons route from the previous winter!
To start with, there was a steep downhill. Fully refreshed from our stop at the CP7 party, we zipped downhill feeling fast and light. This was another short section, 8 kilometers in length.
So it wasn’t long before we steamed into Shing Mun. There was a serious lack of monkeys – and Jaeseung! This was where we met our friend during his 50k race last year, the day after our 50 miler. But he was not here tonight.
Concerned, Kent pulled out his phone while I huddled up beside the bonfire to keep warm. We learned that our friend was no longer in the race. To preserve ours, we needed to get going again!
We later learned that the ATM male champion and HK running star John Ellis ran the 7 kilometer section up to Lead Mine Pass in just over an hour. It took us two and a half.
As we started to climb, I could feel the day’s effort in my body. My heart rate climbed and my breathing grew ragged. It was unsustainable for me to continue this way, and I knew it. Kent was climbing ahead of me, and I had to call to him. Part of me hated to be the slow one – but another part of me knew that it would be foolish to push myself hard here, with the bulk of the ascent still to come.
At a hard hike, I enjoyed Needle Hill more. Last time, we’d seen it from the other side, and in daylight. This time, it was 2:30 am, and I could barely see the summit stele! Still, it was fun to return and experience one of my favorite peaks in a brand new way.
We dropped into CP9 in the wee hours of the morning, to be impressed all over again by the youth volunteer staff. As we ran up to the aid station, two girls ran out to meet us, taking our water bottles to go and refill them.
After using the loo (for the third time in the race, hooray for hydration successes!), I leaned against a post and eyed the snacks tables. I’d finally learned my lesson about peanut butter (better before or after a race), but I was hungry and running low on my own snacks. Eventually I settled on a jam sandwich, which, to my relief, was the perfect choice and went down easy.
It was Kent’s turn to struggle next, as he left the aid station reluctantly. Riding a simple carbohydrate high, I led the way on the steep steps up the side of Tai Mo Shan.
The higher we climbed, the foggier it became. Naturally, we were once again running the boulder field in misty, atmospheric conditions. Many of the runners around us had downshifted into hiking. We probably drove them crazy by shouting ‘it’s runnable!’ as we sped up on each downhill.
We also tried to keep a steady pace on the continuous uphill. For me, that meant jogging with tiny steps – a pace that’s regrettably only as fast as Kent’s power hike.
But this was the best I’d felt all race. For some reason, I was in particularly fine form. I looked for opportunities to open up and sang show tunes to Kent (and all of the people nearby). It struck me that Climb Every Mountain was particularly appropriate as we approached the highest peak of the race – and Hong Kong.
There were uncountable false summits. We left the boulder field behind and headed further uphill on a paved road. The fog was thicker here, to the point where we’d quickly lose each other if one of us surged ahead. Other runners were few and far between now.
Finally, an orange glow infused the fog. We ran harder. There was the gate for the military installation – and here were some soldiers to greet us! We’d done it!
It was an easy, giddy downhill from there. I charged ahead, guided only by the yellow line in the middle of the road. My headlamp turned the water droplets white all around me, leaving me alone in a cool, moist cloud. I ran faster and faster as the road switchbacked down towards the city.
We emerged from the cloud at a lower elevation and merged onto the narrow Route Twisk trail. I called encouragement to Kent. The sounds of music drifted up from below, auditorily marking our end point.
Though I raced toward it, I wasn’t eager to be finished. Part of me wanted to go on like this forever! But soon, we could see the cluster of tents, buildings and vehicles that marked the end. The starting arch glowed brightly and an announcer called us in.
We burst across the line in 22 hours and 2 minutes. I was ecstatic: this was an awesome finish! Someone informed me that had we have been 3 minutes faster, I’d have gotten a silver trophy. I couldn’t have cared less.
Hand-in-hand, I rushed with Kent to the awards table. There we received snuggly finisher sweaters and our twin bronze trophies – Kent’s very first! Not unlike my first triathlon, I felt like we’d won the Olympics or something. My smile felt so big it threatened to split my cheeks. We had truly crushed our goals for this race – and had a fabulous time doing so!
Lessons Learned
There were many elements in the formula for our Hong Kong 100 success.
First, there was the fact that we did it: despite travel warnings and our own concerns. Caution is my middle name, but it really does pay to take a chance. Especially when it’s for something you really want and really believe in, and for me, that was this Hong Kong 100.
Second, a direct flight and an extra day and a half off work meant that we weren’t frantically rushing to this race – a nice change from many of our 2019 events! Add to that the shuttle service, our knowledge of the area and race packet delivery to the hotel, and it’s easy to see how we were set up for a good time.
There was also a lot of smart decision-making during the race: listening to my body and what it wanted. I managed to drink enough water and make multiple pees – a big success that helped me continue to feel great beyond the finish line. And that’s despite making the call to carry a slightly lighter pack! I worked within a zone that felt comfortably hard, never slacking or striving beyond it. I sampled a few of the wrong foods, but managed my nausea.
Finally, and most importantly, Kent deserves a whole lot of the credit for how awesomely everything played out. It was his idea to order our favorite electrolyte drink mix directly to the hotel. And after we talked about our goals (like time limits for aid station stops), he made up a spreadsheet for us! Plus, he agreed to do the race at all – perhaps against what felt like good judgement at the time.
And that’s just all the stuff that was within our control! The race organizers did a terrific job with this one. The aid stations were well-stocked with snacks and staffed by truly terrific volunteers. The information available online before the race was plentiful and allowed us to study up on the course. Hong Kong 100 truly is a world-class race.
There’s not a thing I’d change about our Hong Kong 100 experience. I’m delighted to have completed an ITRA 5-point race, and thrilled to have done our hardest 100k to date in our second fastest time ever. What a perfect start to racing in 2020! I hope we have a chance to come back one day and run it again – it’s that good.
Headed to your own Hong Kong 100 experience? Check out the official site for news, maps and more!