Stunning Seonunsan Provincial Park (선운산도립공원). I can’t write enough good things about this park. Unknown to me before my visit, I was absolutely delighted by this park and its mountain.
Already buzzing with endorphins from our super successful birthday trip to Byeonsanbando National Park, I started the day full of enthusiasm for whatever the day might hold. And what it held was a very exciting hiking course! After an easy run in past a little dam, we encountered our first rock scrambles and ropes!
Gripping tightly to thick knots while leaning backward and grinning for photos, I was impressed immediately! How did I not know about this fun, dynamic mountain before, I wondered. It was a perfect summer day, we were already climbing high over beautiful vistas, and I felt full of joy. Little did I know the fun had only just begun!
After a couple of kilometers, we spotted a massive rock wall from afar. We’d been climbing up and down on a rugged ridge, so I was immediately curious to see if we would be going up or going around. Turns out, there was only one way to go, and that was straight up! Passing several danger signs and arriving at the base of the rocky column, I saw our route. It was one long, long rope, dangling down from a fixed point somewhere out of view at the top.
How I wish I had pictures or video! But alas. Both Kent and I had to devote all of our limbs, digits and energy to challenging this rope section up Tugubawi. It was by far the highest, most exposed and challenging thing, in terms of both upper body strength and bravery, that I’d done to date. I got up first, and collapsed into a trembling mass of strained muscles and gratitude for the feeling of solid ground. Clinging to the rocks, and with more than a little vertigo, I could stick my head out over the edge far enough to see Kent making his way up directly below me.
Then it was celebration time. There was no rushing this pretty peak! We had incredible views in every direction, high over a plunging valley surrounded by jagged rock formations. I was ecstatic over our tricky but triumphant climb, and the scenic rewards we were reaping!
I thought this rocky peak would be the high point of our day. And perhaps it was, literally. As the adrenaline subsided, I was left with feelings of contentment and gratitude for our adventure. But it wasn’t finished – not by a long shot!
A thrilling run over a rocky ridge led us slightly down and into a forest. But, much like the ridge amphitheater that comprises nearby Naejangsan National Park, we were about to discover that this was no single peak park! The ridge continued its exciting undulations over multiple peaks! The first few we had to ourselves, and on later peaks we met some friendly and energetic Korean hiking groups.
Countless ropes, ladders, rocky outcrops and summit celebrations later, it was time to come down from our mountain high. But our sea-level serenity was ensured by a visit to a lovely temple at the foot of Seonunsan. What a perfect day!
Know and Go! Seonunsan
Transportation
It’s a little remote, but do not let that put you off going to Seonunsan Provincial Park! The nearest population center is Gochang, which you can take a bus to. If you’re struggling to find a direct bus from your area, good pivot points (and bigger urban centers) include Jeonju to the north and Gwangju to the south. Alternatively, you can take a KTX fast train to Jeong-eup, which is also nearby.
From Gochang or Jeong-eup, there’s a public Seonunsan bus available to take you to the park. Or take a taxi to get there early and fast!
Hike & Run
Run this park. Hike this park. Walk in this park. You will be so happy you did, I promise! All my notes about this park rave about its beautiful vistas and exciting climbs. It deserves the strongest recommendation I can give it, as it was one of my favorite hikes ever! I loved my time in this park and hope to have the chance to hike it again one day.
I would also highly recommend hiking along the same route and direction that we did, for some terrific views and exciting challenges. Also because, in my opinion, it’s much easier to navigate really long ropes in the upward direction! We looped around the amphitheater in a clockwise direction, beginning near Dosuljae (lake) before climbing Tugubawi (rock face).
A longer loop can be made, taking in multiple small summits, Anjangbawi (rock) and Bihaksan before joining our route at Gukkibong. Although making for a bigger adventure, this route does bypass what was possibly my favorite part of the park.
Be aware that the main peak is on the northern side of the amphitheatre (see Other Notes) – but also that the main attraction here is the jagged ridge of multiple peaks. In this case, it really is all about the journey.
Stay & Eat
There is a pleasant little tourist village at the base of the mountain, so you can stock up on mountain vegetable dishes before and/or after your adventure. Although we didn’t stay overnight in the area, it certainly would have been possible. There’s also dining and sleeping options in the towns of Gochang and Jeong-eup mentioned above.
Other Notes
The highest peak in Seonunsan Provincial Park is 336 meter Suribong…apparently. We actually never found this peak, on a map or in real life! Maybe that means we’ll have to return for a Suribong treasure hunt one day… Anyways, the mountain is celebrated on South Korea’s two famous summit lists: check it out with Black Yak and the Korea Forest Service.
Kent and I visited Seonunsan in early September 2016. We did a 15 kilometer run/hike out of the Seonunsa temple tourist village, looping around the amphitheater. This little slice of heaven marked the 14th provincial park we explored during our mountain mission year.
More mountains? Yes please! Provincial parks are here, and 119 more summits are here!