Majestic Mungyeong Saejae Provincial Park (문경새재도립공원) is so scenic and well-developed, you’d swear it ought to be a national park. Although I’m a big fan of all the provincial parks, Mungyeong Saejae truly is the very best of them.
Mungyeong Saejae has ancient history and great hikes in spades. It has remote, rugged ridges that define wilderness – and features fine dining down in civilization at the foot of the mountain. There’s gardens, tours and even a movie set on site. If ever there was a park to meet the needs of everyone, this is definitely it.
For first time visitors and history buffs, a stroll up the road that links three historical gates is in order. The forest lining the road is beautiful year round, and the trip back through time is fascinating.
More mountainous adventures await to either side of the pass at the top. Veer right to explore a very exciting ridge leading to the highest peak of the park. Discover dense forests at the heart of the Baekdudaegan mountain chain – and views for days from Juheulsan’s peaks!
Less well-traveled due to its high degree of difficulty – but perhaps even more striking – is the ridge to the left. Here you’ll find Joryeongsan, the highest of several remote peaks, all linked by rocky scrambles and ropes.
Return to the mountain vegetable and local fruit oasis at the foot of the mountain to conclude your day. The restaurants are of high quality and the cafes are relaxing. I can’t imagine a better place in which to celebrate a successful day in the mountains!
Mungyeong Saejae isn’t an ordinary provincial park. This park manages to encapsulate all that’s great about Korea in one scenic spot. It’s a Korea trip highlight. It’s at the top of my list of recommendations, and one of my favorite places on Earth.
Magical Mungyeong Saejae Adventures
Tips and tricks for enjoying Mungyeong Saejae Provincial Park
When to go
I imagine this park is probably fabulous year-round. Think of the possibilities: first snowfall on the lawn in front of the first gate, high peaks decorated by cool pastel blooms or forests inviting with warm autumn foliage! We’ve only been in the summer months, but I’d love to experience another season in Mungyeong Saejae Provincial Park.
Much like Korea’s National Parks (to which Mungyeong Saejae should arguably belong), the high peaks and ridges are subject to annual closures. Fall closures can affect hikes in November or December, but not every year. Spring closures are regular, and tend to affect the months of April and May. Finding out about closures can be tricky in the provincial parks: with no official online resource, your best best is to check Naver map. Closed trails show up in red, and you can usually zoom in to take a look at the dates of closure.
Just because the mountaintops might be closed doesn’t mean the park down below will be. Restaurants, cafes and even the old road through the gates are said to stay open year-round!
Where to stay
There are plenty of accommodation options right in the tourist village at entrance to Mungyeong Saejae Provincial Park. These include guest houses, a resort hotel, Korean-style pensions and minbaks – even a campground! The only thing that’s lacking here is a collection of inexpensive motels. If that’s what you’re after, head to Mungyeong town – you’ll also see a couple nearby on the connecting road.
Despite my great fondness for this park, Kent and I have actually never stayed on site! Must be yet another reason for us to return.
In addition to good sleeps, there are great eats to be had here. Truly special mountain vegetable cuisine, artfully presented. Opt for one of the fancier restaurants for a more traditional feel, or join the masses eating street-side for another kind of classic Korean experience.
There are cafes aplenty too if you need a hit of energy before you go or something warm to hold on your return. The area specializes in drinks made with omija. Omija is the magnolia berry, and the local name means five flavors. Most often found as a tea, this drink is sweet, pink and can be enjoyed hot or cold! Omija rice wine is also popular!
Hiking & Running
Have a look at the two articles above to explore your options in greater depth.
The main attraction of Mungyeong Saejae is its blend of history and hiking. The road that runs through the center of the park is ancient. Once the connection between Seoul and Busan, this is the only section of the old road that has remained unchanged since Joseon times. The three gates one encounters along this road were used to control access to the pass: one of the few places where the Baekdudaegan could be crossed.
Many hikers get their kicks simply sticking to this road. As far as roads go, this is a really special one! The three ancient gates are striking, and you make your way up to the high pass slowly. There’s plenty to see along the way, including some snack stops! It’s incredibly lovely and worth taking your time on, whether you plan on heading further into the mountains or not.
But if you do mountains, consider this just the beginning. There are multiple trails branching off the road to the right which you can use to reach Juheulsan, the highest peak in the park (as well as plenty of other exciting summits!). Trails to the left ascend the extremely dramatic ridge leading to Joryeongsan.
Both options are well worth your time. I don’t think I could choose one over the other! But you may have to: both ridges offer hikes of 20 kilometers or more. Although you’ll work a little harder for your views than on some other hikes, you get to be in pretty forest all day long!
There’s so much hiking to be had here. You’re going to be spoiled for choice. My only advice: enjoy this pretty park as much as you can!