Well, we did not visit this mountain on the loveliest of days. But as a testament to the beauty of the mountain, Geumosan Provincial Park (금오산도립공원) was lovely despite the drizzly day!
We began our adventure early on a grey morning, carrying our umbrellas like swords in our backpacks. Good thing, too, as they were needed almost immediately and then continuously! Our climb up began beneath an ancient, atmospheric fortress gate set in the long stone wall of Geumosanseong. Just inside, there was a lovely temple off to the side that beckoned to us before we began our hike proper.
On the ascent, the thick foliage of the forest blocked a bit of the rain, and the damp earth gave off a sweet, refreshing smell. Leaves glistened in various shades of green, and everything appeared lush and verdant.
Up on the peak, a strong wind whipped the rain across our bare arms and faces. Time with the twin summit steles was short, given the conditions, but enjoyable nonetheless. We were completely enshrouded in clouds, only vaguely aware of our height above the valley floor.
Just below the rocky summit (and its host of towers and electronic equipment), was an incredibly scenic hermitage, perched on the steepest of slopes beneath a massive boulder! We lingered there, hiding a bit from the rain and soaking in the peaceful atmosphere. Gazing out over the lush forest and breathing deeply of earth and incense, I felt a sense of contentment. I was in no hurry to descend.
But descend we ultimately did, on a new trail, to complete a little loop of Geumosan Provincial Park. Down at the bottom, we wandered along a lakeside boardwalk, waiting to see if the clouds would clear up enough to give us a glimpse of the peak from below. Happily for me, we found one of the world’s most ideally located cafes, right at the foot of the mountain! Sitting inside with a warm drink on a blustery day, watching low clouds come and go from the shapely summit, was just the right way to end our adventure.
Know and Go! Geumosan
Transportation
Geumosan Provincial Park is conveniently located in Gumi (‘Yes! Gumi’ is the city slogan and I tend to agree with it). Gumi is just a hop, skip and a jump away from major metro Daegu (about 50 minutes by bus and shorter by train), and thanks to good rail and road links, easily accessible from points further afield.
Local buses ply the streets between the bus terminal, train station and base of the mountain. It’s also not a terribly far walk, particularly if you’re coming from the train station. Or, if you’re short on time and eager to get hiking, grab a cheap taxi. Gumo Land or Geumosan jeosuji (manmade lake) are the landmarks you’re looking for.
One more form of transportation I should mention is the cable car! Apparently Geumosan has one, offering accessible mountain vistas to all. However, not having taken it myself, I can’t say much more than that there is one for you, if that’s your thing.
Hike & Run
Although I neglected to take a proper picture of a map, there are many trails. The trails climb various valleys and ridges, but most of the main paths start from the central Geumosan Lake (jeosuji) area. Longer, alternative routes start right from town (with multiple points of origin near both the train station and city hall) and follow undulating ridges to the peak. Geumosanseong fortress cuts across the lower slopes of the mountain, and there are several temples to be found along the trails.
Stay & Eat
We neither ate nor slept here, but it would have been easy to do both! Thanks to the convenient location of Geumosan Provincial Park, motels and restaurants abound. There is a more traditional/touristy area at the foot of the mountain, replete with mountain vegetable joints and motels. And of course, the city of Gumi is full of options for both lodging and noshing.
We stopped off for some delicious drinks afterwards!
Other Notes
The highest peak in Geumosan Provincial Park is is 976 meter Hyeonwolbong. There are two stone steles, some telecommunications equipment and no doubt excellent views on clearer days. Just below the peak, Yaksaam hermitage is well worth visiting too!
Geumosan is one of Black Yak‘s 100 famous summits in Korea. Check it out here!
Kent and I visited this park during the summer monsoon in August 2016! Geumosan was our 13th provincial park on our mountain mission. We did a 9.3 kilometer loop run/hike in rather stormy conditions.
We’d heard rave reviews of this mountain prior to our visit, but found scant information online about it, save for this brief on Visit Korea’s site.
Like mountains? Explore more provincial parks or 120 summits with me!
Too bad you got to the hermitage on a cloudy day. The view is spectacular and includes a cable bridge to a large bell which I have been honored to ring. Before its construction post 1977, the temple was only a white Buddha in a cave. I made several visits to the temple while being stationed in Korea. President Park Chung-Hee sponsored the reconstruction of the temple. It was said you could see his childhood home from the temple..
Thank you for sharing this, George! This is fascinating local history, and it sounds like you had an incredible experience at Geumosan. I appreciate your comment and hope you have a great day!