Doraksan (도락산)

I was very excited to explore more of Woraksan National Park (월악산국립공원)! This special park is home to the goral antelope (my fave!) and lies at the heart of the Baekdudaegan in South Korea. Woraksan is vast – with small, disconnected segments of hiking. Over a year had passed since our first visit. And this time, we were back to visit some lesser-known corners of the park: namely Doraksan (도락산) and Geumsusan (금수산)!

A dramatic photograph of the author, standing on a slab of stone high above a deep valley. She's got one hand on her hip and one hand high in the air - and as usual, she's grinning brightly at the camera. The rock at her feet is covered in parallel cracks leading to the view: pyramids of green in the heart of Woraksan National Park.

Doraksan was first on the docket, on this summer Saturday. We woke before dawn and departed from our remote little miracle of a motel (it was kind of our last option) on the edge of the lake. When we reached our destination, we parked just outside the parking lot (because we’re KnC). Then we were really ready to begin, and we began with a run up the right side of the loop trail.

A beautiful landscape photo of the valley below Doraksan just before sunrise. The mountains are a deep emerald green, fading to black in the distance. The sky above is what draws the eye: it's a streaky, pink and blue sky that's lovely to behold.
Dawn on Doraksan

A paved road became a dirt path through a field, and on into the forest. We somehow started at just the right time: there was enough pre-dawn glow to avoid needing headlamps. On the way up, there were steep steps, rocky scrambles and (not so) little stone cairns.

A selfie of KnC on the stairs leading up the slopes of Doraksan. Kent is higher up on the stairs and Carrie is several steps below. The pair are slightly blurred in the pale morning light. Behind is a rocky slope covered with summer foliage.
Stairs. Woraksan National Park is a big fan.
A vertical portrait of the author, clinging to one boulder while balanced precariously on another. She's a little blurry with motion, but she has a funny expression on as she looks down towards a deep hole.
Fearlessly navigating the obstacles
A vertical shot of an advanced stone cairn. This one has multiple levels, with long flat stones layered between smaller, rounder ones. There are several peaks, but the very top is a very impressive stack of half a dozen rocks, decreasing in size. This type of rock sculpture is common on Korean trails.
Stone sculpture!

Doraksan’s trail was everything that we love about national parks with its pristine, litter-free forest and helpful steps at crucial places. The NP infrastructure makes everything feel simple and comfortable, even the steepest, gnarliest mountains – of which this was one! It was incredibly thrilling, like its sister peak Yeongbong.

There was one amazing flat rock shortly before Doraksan’s peak which was especially memorable. From this rock we had tremendous views to either side, free of foliage thanks to sudden, plunging drop-offs.

A unique photograph of the author, seated atop the large Doraksan summit stele. She's leaning back and her gaze is directed to the writing on the front of the stele.
Credit to the photographer: probably my most glamorous

In contrast, Doraksan’s peak was a cozy one, nestled in among low trees and bushes. I felt that this surprisingly peaceful peak, with an inviting wood bench and a friendly picnic area off to one side, really added to the charm of the mountain!

A photograph of a low wooden bench on the top of Doraksan. It's lit with a warm, pinkish sunlight in the early morning. The vertical framing also captures the verdant forest surrounding the peak.
Although these missions don’t involve a lot of sitting, I’m a connoisseur of attractive benches

We saw one fellow hiker returning from the peak just before we reached it, but we were blissfully alone on top. We lingered a little, enjoying ourselves at the summit.

In this striking image, the author faces the summit stele on top of Doraksan. Her hands are pressed to her chest, her head nodded towards them. The scene is wrapped in green forest and gentle early morning light.
A moment.

Then we lingered a little more on the rocky viewpoint. And there we were not alone! We heard some small singing, and quickly located its source. A groove in the rock had been filled in with water that was thick with algal growth. And here was where we found the frogs of Doraksan!

A photograph of Carrie, crouched on a massive boulder. Although the lush rolling scenery in the background is enticing, she's gazing into a little black pool of water.
Looking for…
This close-up image shows what the author was looking for in the previous photo: two tiny frogs! They're half-submerged at the edge of the pond with only their heads and front legs visible. Although they appear a uniform mottled dark green from this angle, they have surprising bright red stomachs!
FROGS!

Eventually, we got moving again. We decided to descend on a new, parallel trail to close the loop. We had terrific views from here, too, as it was another dramatic ridge! The two trails on Doraksan are separated by a very narrow and dramatic valley.

A vertical image of the author standing alongside a massive Korean pine tree on the side of the Doraksan trail. It's huge branches begin near the ground, and extend out of the image to the top and either side!
Flora highlight: massive Korean pines!

Going down, we met quite a few folks coming up. But our adventure was short and sweet! We were back in the our trusty weekend rental car by 8:30 – more than enough time to tackle another one of Workasan’s peaks! Next up: Geumsusan!

Know and Go! Doraksan

Transportation

Doraksan is a bit in the middle of nowhere, much like the rest of Woraksan National Park! Doraksan is right in the middle of the triangle of cities surrounding Woraksan: Jecheon, Yeongju and Mungyeong. It’s closest to the small tourist town of Danyang (of Sobaeksan fame, actually!) – which is definitely where you should go if you’re using public transit to reach Doraksan.

From Danyang, you’ll want to drive (or direct your driver) south onto highway 5, then on to the winding route 59. After Gasan-ri, turn in and pass Sangseonam.

There are public buses that stop nearby as well. Search on Naver for updated time tables or head to the bus station. We opted not to do this, because we wanted to explore a lot of Woraksan in a little time – but it can be done!

Hike & Run

Luckily, the limited number of trails here makes your choice easy. There are two trails leading up to the summit, so take one going up and the other coming down for variety! Both are beautiful and have similar infrastructure. Similar in length, both are high on ridges above a steep valley.

A photograph of the official Woraksan National Park trail map, showing the two routes up to the top of Doraksan. The two main trails form a loop on either side of a valley with Doraksan at the top and the parking lot at the bottom.
Doraksan trail map

Stay & Eat

Although I love a good mountain veggie feast, I did not come across one here. So perhaps you’ll be best served eating in Danyang or elsewhere in the park!

In terms of sleeping, Naver notes a guesthouse and pension right at the foot of Doraksan. These places would undoubtedly make a tranquil stay for a Korean-speaking guest with a car and/or provisions – but could be quite isolating if you’re on your own or using public transit. If in doubt, I’d suggest basing yourself in Danyang where there are many motels, restaurants and shops.

If you have your own wheels, you’ve got more options. We wound up staying at a little place on the 36 highway alongside Chungjuho lake. It’s a very scenic area that’s accordingly popular: we almost couldn’t find a room!

Other Notes

Doraksan is on both mountain lists: it’s on the Black Yak list here and the Korea Forest Service list here.

Kent and I climbed Doraksan in early June 2018. We enjoyed a 6.7 kilometer jaunt to and from the peak.

Doraksan is 964 meters tall. While the peak doesn’t have dramatic views, its ridges do. The best panoramas can be had from just before the peak – trust me, you’ll know when you’re there.

Continue on with us to Geumsusan, our second peak of the day! Or, click to return to the Woraksan main page and explore more.

Want more of Korea’s marvelous mountains? Head back to the 120 summits main page, or check out other national parks in Korea!


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