Ask a dozen Korean hikers where to watch the sun rise on New Year’s Day, and you’re likely to get just one answer: Taebaeksan National Park (태백산국립공원). From the peak of this mountain, you can watch the sun take shape out of the east sea and the colors of dawn paint the sky above rugged landscape of Gangwondo.
Of course, this spectacle isn’t just for the new year. Winter’s snowy scenery is just one of this park’s many beautiful faces. Skip the crowds and greet the dawn on any other day of the year. Enjoy a carpet of pink in the spring or plunge into a rainbow-hued forest in the fall.
My personal favorite? The hot, wet height of summer. You’ll probably miss that famous sunrise, but the moody, misty atmosphere can’t be beat. You might lose yourself in the forest, displaced in time and location. Maybe you’ll hear the mystical sounds of shamanic chanting long before one of Taebaeksan’s altars slowly appears out of the mist.
Taebeaksan is a famous mountain – not least because it is South Korea’s newest national park! This well-loved mountain received national park status in 2017. Previously a provincial park, Taebaeksan is well-known among hikers and in Korean culture generally.
That’s because Taebaeksan is a sacred mountain: several shamanist shrines are located on the mountain. This mountain has a long history, and is connected to Korea’s mythological founder Dangun. Taebaeksan is also a tall mountain, boasting some of the highest peaks in South Korea north of Jirisan. It’s also home to multiple temples, pristine forests and freshwater springs (including the source of the Han River!).
Tremendous Taebaeksan adventures
Tips and tricks for enjoying Taebaeksan National Park
When to go
Probably the best place in Korea for experiencing all four seasons, Taebaeksan is famous for year-round hiking! You can see the hillsides painted pink with rhododendron blooms in spring, hike in the lush forests of summer, witness sweeping color changes in the fall and experience the winter whites of a frosty forest. It is always the best time to go to Taebaeksan!
Except, of course, for the two annual closure periods that affect all of Korea’s national parks. The fall fire prevention closure is usually mid-November to mid-December. The spring closure typically lasts from early March to mid-May. Closures mainly affect peaks and ridges: some trails might still be accessible. Check the official Korea National Park Service website for more information, and check Naver Maps before you go: trails marked in red indicate closures.
Taebaeksan has a very long ridge for visitors to explore. Most stick to Janggunbong, the main peak, and the surrounding southern area. This area is by far the most popular, and you’ll share the trails with pilgrims and hiking groups year-round. But venture north to Hambaeksan and beyond, and you might just have a peak to yourself!
As always, I highly recommend an early start! Even conditions are too cloudy for one of Taebaeksan’s famed sunrises, you’ll have the whole day ahead of you to enjoy the ridge. But again, be aware that sunrise watching is a popular pursuit on Taebaeksan, so you’re unlikely to have this spectacle to yourself.
If you’re confident in your abilities and desire a little mountain solitude, another option is to hike up in the afternoon. At this time of day, the majority of hikers will be heading in the opposite direction. You might meet some big groups on the slopes, but crowds should thin out on the ridge. Perhaps you could catch one of Taebaeksan’s less storied but equally lovely sunsets!
Where to stay
Stay in Taebaek, of course! Taebaek is the largest city in the region around the mountain, and its a nice one. It’s also a pretty unique city in Korea. The city itself is fairly high, and is completely encircled by even higher mountains! It has a unique alpine feel to it: like a Swiss city transplanted onto Korean soil. It’s also a rare small-to-mid-sized city in a country of sprawling metropolises and tiny farming villages. I think you’ll like it!
Taebaek has everything a traveler needs: a bus station, a train station, marts, motels and restaurants. The best mountain vegetable fare is at the base of the mountain rather than in town, but you can find some yummy options here too. There are also many familiar shops and chains.
Hiking & Running
If you like to go long, you’ll love Taebaeksan! Thanks to this mountain’s location in the middle of the Baekdudaegan mountain range, there’s a long ridge and plenty of peaks to explore.
Although Taebaeksan has an unusual shape, the whole national park is completely open to hikers – a rare treat! If you can, trek the length of the ridge north to south, or vice versa. This ridge is long but not particularly difficult. Once you’re up on the high ridge, the terrain is gently undulating. That makes it perfect for newer hikers or runners looking to blaze some trail!
If a long point-to-point route is not in the cards for you, focus on the southern section of the park. Make sure to tag Janggunbong and Munsubong. These two main peaks are famous for a reason: the stone cairns and ancient altars are otherworldly! A visit to Taebaeksan National Park is just not complete without these two atmospheric peaks.
The easiest of all possible routes is to drive up the old number 414 highway west of Taebaek to a high pass. Hike about one kilometer to reach Hambaeksan from here.
Taebaeksan National Park is a great place for a getaway in any season. Sample some spirituality, trace the flow of Korea’s great rivers back to their origins or just enjoy the view from some of Korea’s highest peaks.
Happy hiking!