In 2017, we made it our mission to tread every trail in Seoraksan National Park (설악산국립공원). We spent the year exploring the park; discovering new routes and revisiting old favorites. Near the end of the year, we realized there was still more discovering to do…if we rode rather than ran!
There are three mountain passes in Seoraksan National Park: Hangyeryeong, Misiryeong and Jinburyeong.
Of these three mountain passes, Hangyeryeong is the highest and maybe the most well known. Hangyeryeong divides inner Seoraksan from outer Seoraksan – the popular east side of the park from the remote western part. Hangyeryeong – the top of Seorak-ro – was built in 1971, linking the east coast city Yangyang with the inland town Inje. These days, this highway mainly serves as a scenic drive, with various trailheads along the roadside.
Misiryeong is another large pass that marks the national park boundary to the north. The Misiryeong Tunnel connects inland Gangwondo with the coast at Sokcho via highway 56. Misiryeong itself is above the tunnel, at the top of the old road that winds its way up and over the mountains. Misiryeong links the peaks of Seoraksan with other Baekdudaegan peaks north of the park.
Jinburyeong is the third and least well-known pass associated with Seoraksan. It is located north of Misiryeong on highway 46 towards Goseong. The pass sits just below Masan mountain and the abandoned Alps ski resort.
All three mountain passes are also crossings on the Baekdudaegan: the mountainous spine that runs the length of Korea. A long-distance hiking trail theoretically traces the top of this spine, but all of the sections in and near Seoraksan National Park are currently off-limits for hiking. But, as we discovered, there are other ways to enjoy them: these three mountain passes are perfect for bicycle adventures!
Misiryeong
We had been especially curious about this pass. Having driven through the tunnel below many times, we wanted to know what was on top! Exiting the tunnel on the Sokcho side provides spectacular views of Ulsan Bawi. What would the vista from the top be like?
It was a fantastic fall day when we set off on this adventure. The trees were ablaze with bright colors and the air was crisp and cool. We took the quiet back roads from our town to Yongdae-ri. It was smooth pedaling: our bikes were the only traffic on these calm roads and the scenery was stunning.
A bike path had long been under construction beside the highway at Yongdae, so we decided to check it out rather than ride with the cars on this busy and narrow stretch of road. But we quickly discovered that the path wasn’t finished! We spent a couple of kilometers pushing our way through piles of sand and rocks.
The push up the pass was what we’d been looking forward to. This was new territory, and a new challenge! The higher we rode, the more intense the colors of the fall foliage became. It was tough, but fun! After winding our way up to the top, we stopped. We had incredible eagle’s eye views back down the road we’d come on, and similarly stunning views down towards the sea.
The 767 meter high pass had a large, paved parking lot that was guarded by a Seoraksan National Park ranger. We were not the only people up there admiring the views: there were several cars and camper vans. We chatted with a few friendly folks as we wandered around, taking pictures with road signs. It was bitterly cold at this gap that channeled the winds from the East Sea into the interior. Shivering, we shrugged into our warmest winter gear for the ride down.
Hangyeryeong
Nearly every time we visited Seoraksan National Park, we’d taken a bus over this pass. In 2016, we’d ended a hike there accidentally and wound up walking down the road to Osaek. Later on, we’d plan a winter hike beginning from this pass. But in October 2017, it felt like we’d never actually been there. Riding our bikes up to Hangyeryeong would give us the perfect opportunity to check out the views…and the mountain veggies!
However, the highway running over the pass was intimidating. Huge tourist and intercity buses fill the road, winding all the way up and zipping all the way down. People do bike here, but we decided the quieter back roads would suit our casual cycling style better. Plus, we’d have a chance to explore more new territory!
Our route began by heading over over the now familiar 765 meter Garisan-ri pass on Hanseoksan road. Back in April on our first visit, I was amazed that we could bike up this high! Now, it was still a challenge, but one that I knew and looked forward to. Heading up was hot, and I quickly shed my gloves and jacket. But as soon as we crested the pass, we began to descend into an ice valley.
Here, tall mountains cast deep, permanent shadows. Thick clouds blotted out the sun’s light. A cold wind whistled up the road as we whipped down it. It was so frosty that I began to lose both the feelings in my extremities…and my nerve! I thought I might never get warm again. Every farm house seem to beckon me in; perhaps a hot drink and a ride home could be found at one of them!
But of course, we didn’t stop at a stranger’s farm, or at all. Instead, we carried on; pedaling harder in an effort to warm ourselves up! Soon we reached the bottom of the valley, and turned east on Pillye road. This area’s scenery is renowned, so we had been eager to explore it! It was even more wonderful in person than in rumor, and we were delighted to have it all to ourselves this fine morning!
It got sunnier and warmer as we biked upwards. We passed a turnoff to a mineral spring, but stayed focused on the climb. It was effortful, but not truly tough until near the top. The road weaved back and forth, giving us glimpses into secret little Seoraksan valleys. Every bend was a window into a secret world inviting more exploration, but it was enough for us to be exploring a new road.
A couple more turns brought us up over and parallel to Seorak-ro! We sprang from our bikes and scrambled up a little hill for better views down the road. This is one of the highest drivable passes in South Korea, and the most dramatic. The highway wove back and forth in switchbacks below us; cars and buses slowly navigating the turns and steep grade.
A few hundred meters further on brought us to the pass itself and all of the fun signs decorating it. There was a large green highway sign noting the elevation: 920 meters! A massive rocky stele commemorating the Baekdudaegan was also there. The parking lot was packed, and we were certainly no longer alone. But we were in no hurry, so we stayed.
Venturing inside at the rest stop, we found a little restaurant and ordered some lunch. We sat at a window table with a view back down the steep south side of the pass. Nourished and warmed from our meal, we were ready to head back home. But our adventures were not over yet!
On the way back, we stopped at the mineral spring. Since we’d passed it earlier, the road nearby had filled up with cars. All of the occupants seemed to be enjoying the forest around the mineral spring, and it was easy to see why! The five-pointed leaves of the maple trees were painted in vivid oranges and reds. It was so dazzling it seemed almost artificial, as though at any moment a film crew would pop out of the bushes and adjust the lighting on set. But it was real, and it was beautiful!
Moving on, we coasted down to Pillye road and turned north on Hanseoksan road. Some volunteers in fluorescent vests directed traffic here, and we would quickly find out why. A few hundred meters down the road, a fellow cyclist whizzed past us. Then another, and another! We pulled over to shed our jackets for the climb back up and saw dozens more bikers heading our way. This was a bicycle race!
We pedaled alongside other riders as the grade increased. We’d cheer on those that were flagging, and the stronger cyclists blazing by encouraged us on. Near the crest of the hill, there was even a photographer. He snapped photos of us as we laughed and tried to explain that we were not part of the race. It didn’t seem to matter. On the pass, we were even presented with bottled water and bananas that we were unable to refuse.
Back near our little town, we left the race behind, but nonetheless felt a funny kind of post-race satisfaction! And we were happy about having finally explored Hangyeryeong under our own power!
Jinburyeong
For this adventure, we actually had a bike-and-hike planned! But we also planned this adventure for mid-November, and the weather was not especially cooperative. This mysterious and little-visited area of Korea had long enticed us. Its location made it seem strange that it was included as one of the three passes of Seoraksan. And the closed ski resort also promised an unusual sort of adventure.
A moody grey sky hung low over the day as we set off. We’d dressed in all our warmest gear, arming ourselves against the cold. We pedaled quickly past some of our favorite local places. Next, we turned north at the little tourist village that sometimes has an artificial waterfall in summer. Now, there was only an icy river and strong wind.
Once again, we were in brand new territory! The rise was gradual on this quiet road, so we had plenty of time to look around. Immediately, we noticed differences from our two previous mountain pass rides. We were passing through countryside rather than forest. There were farms and abandoned ski equipment rental shops to the sides of the road.
Our elevation increased slowly as we made our way up to the 520 meter high pass. At the top was a bit of a surprise! For one thing, we were alone at this pass. Buildings, including a mart and a museum, were evidence for it once being a tourist destination. But it sure was quiet now. Another surprise was the sudden arrival of a few tiny, icy pellets of sleet. It was neither rain nor snow, but a wet, frosty mixture of the two.
At the top of the pass, we dismounted to explore the area. There was a lot to explore, actually! On one side of the road, there was a war memorial. From the wooden platform behind it, we could see the highway snaking away to the north. Across the road’s windswept surface was a collection of steles and signs devoted to the Baekdudaegan. The largest was a massive stone, engraved with a map of the mountainous spine in both Koreas.
Our plan had involved stashing our bikes here, finding the deserted ski lodge on foot and then ascending Masan, a nearby peak on the Baekdudaegan. However, as we explored Jinburyeong, the worsening weather called our itinerary into question. The sleet intensified, and we realized we weren’t really prepared to get wet as well as cold. We ducked into the tiny local mart to discuss our options, but ultimately decided heading home would be adventure enough.
We had cycled the three passes of Seoraksan! That brought our total number of Seoraksan adventures for the year up to 10. Thinking back over each from the comfort of our warm home, we felt accomplished and happy. One of the reasons we’d decided to come back to Korea was to do just this: more exploration. And we were living in the perfect place to do it. Seoraksan National Park makes one hell of a neighborhood playground.
Know and Go! Cycling Seoraksan’s 3 passes
The three mountain passes share the same start. Getting to any of these passes from the west will require a journey from Seoul. This can be done by bike: the route from Seoul to Sokcho is even noted on Naver’s cycling maps. The ride from Seoul to the coast is around 200 kilometers on all three routes, but will vary based on if you opt into the side roads or stick to the highway.
If riding alongside the traffic on one of Gangwon’s only east-west highways is not for you, take a bus instead! There are multiple points along the way where you can jump out and begin a shorter ride. My former home base, Inje, is one of these places. From Inje and nearby Wontong, you can ride along quieter parallel roads. These roads, along with some (finally finished!) dedicated bike paths, form part of a route known as the ‘Inner Seorak High Tracking Way’ (this route actually extends north to Yanggu as well – making for a very scenic bike trip!).
If you start your ride in Inje or Wontong, you’re looking at a much shorter ride of just 30-35 kilometers to the top. That estimate is similar whether you’re aiming for Misiryeong, Hangyeryeong or Jinburyeong. Double the distance if you’re coming back the same way, or tack on an extra 10-20 kilometers if you want to descend to the coast.
All three routes end in towns on the east coast: Jinburyeong leads to Goseong, Misiryeong to Sokcho and Hangyeryeong to Yangyang (or Sokcho). If you’re catching the bus back to Seoul and beyond, you have options in all three towns. Or, head south alongside the sea! There is a bike trail running along the coast if you’d like to elongate your ride and keep exploring (or simply navigate from one town to the next)!
During the summer and fall, many domestic cyclists take on the challenge of riding up one of these passes. Almost everyone bikes west to east, probably because of the thrill of climbing the pass before ending at the ocean. Seasoned riders often go the whole route, while many other cyclists join in from points along the road. Some tackle their adventure in a single day while others decide to split it up and play tourists along the way.
Regardless of where you start, you’ll be traveling northeast along the highway until just shortly after Wontong. This is the first fork. If you’re bound for Hangyeryeong, hang a right for Seorak-ro. If you’ve been taking the parallel paths, here you’ll need to hop back on the highway.
For Misiryeong, continue along the 46 (or the side roads). The main road will take you through two short tunnels, but I’d recommend choosing the incredibly scenic side roads that pass by Sibiseonyeotang and Baekdamsa. Watch out for where the 46 becomes the 56 just before Misiryeong Tunnel – that’s your cue to veer right and take Misiryeongyet-gil.
Turn north (left) to stay on the 46 and climb up to Jinburyeong – the pass is right on the highway!
You won’t want for food or accommodation on this journey, whichever way you choose. This highway used to serve as the main route from Seoul to Sokcho. It’s lined with villages and rest stops, so you can easily stop the clock for whatever you need. It’s also pretty ideal as far as major roads go: it’s got every convenience you might need and is well-maintained, but a lot of the traffic to the coast has been diverted onto the new expressway. That’s not to say the road isn’t busy: on weekends and summer holidays, it’s very busy indeed. But time your trip right and you could have it to yourself!
Riding up any of Seoraksan’s three mountain passes is fun and rewarding. If you’re comfortable and confident with road riding, the ride to the coast is a great challenge complete with a picture perfect ending. Even if you’re a more casual cyclist or newer to the sport, there’s a journey for you too! I’d recommend doing a shorter version of the ride up one of the passes, or taking on the Yanggu – Sokcho Nae Seorak High Tracking Way.
While you’re there, why not make your own bike’n’hike and check out some of the trails too? Head back to the main Seoraksan page to read more on the trails. Enjoy your ride – and brand a new perspective on Seoraksan!