Secret temples route: Osaeam & Bongjeongam

There is always more to explore in Seoraksan National Park (설악산국립공원)! On two previous adventures, we’d seen either end of a very mysterious trail. This trail seemed to lead through the very center of the park! It stretched from Madeungryeong pass, at the start of Dinosaur Ridge in the northeast, to a massive boulder near Bongjeongam in the southwest. But what was between? We aimed to find out on this adventure!

One of the author's favorite photographs of her husband. This image was taken just below Seoraksan's Daecheongbong summit. Kent is mid-stride, running along a rocky trail below the boulder-strewn summit. A break in the thick clouds reveals another nearby peak and the shelter in the saddle between the two.
My favorite adventurer in action

Once again, we set out long before dawn. This time, we had a bright, nearly full moon to light our way. We dashed through the forest and began the climb towards Madeungryeong. There were rustlings in the bushes nearby and deer barked, far away.

In this mysterious image, a jagged ridge cuts diagonally through the middle of the frame. It is merely a black silhouette in the weak, early morning light. But beyond the sharp edges of the ridge, shades of blue and purple are beginning to light the sky.
First light at Madeungryeong

We made it up and over the pass before the sun was up. We began to descend on a narrower, slightly overgrown trail. Signs pointed us towards an hermitage, but all was quiet. We were the only hikers on the trail.

A lot of forest separated us from Oseam (오세암): there were no visual or auditory hints of it from above. So it felt like we came upon our first secret temple quite suddenly! There, we were most definitely not alone anymore.

An image capturing the scene at Osaeam in the morning on a weekend. Dozens of hikers wearing colorful jackets and t-shirts cluster around picnic tables. They are enjoying the free breakfast provided by the temple. Several of the temple buildings are in the background, below a couple of peaks that resemble shark's teeth. Another mountain ridge beyond these peaks is blurry in the mist.
The breakfast scene at Osaeam

There were dozens of people milling around the small temple: pilgrims consuming a free temple breakfast. Despite the crowds, the temple retained an air of serenity, tucked underneath rocky peaks rising out of the lush forest. But all of these people were bound to be headed the same way as us, from this temple to the next. So we couldn’t linger if we wanted to be speedy. Still, it was hard to rush on…until we remembered we had more forest to explore!

An image of a simple bridge over a streambed, made of four long wooden planks. There is a trail of rocks leading to the bridge from the bottom of the frame, and a thin trail through the forest on the other side of the bridge. This small bridge is striking because most of the infrastructure in the park is grand and uniform throughout. This small bridge is unique, as is the trail!
Atypical water crossing

This forest trail was well-trodden, but narrower and less built-up than others in the park. It felt rustic and somehow secret, even though we were leading a large crowd. There were slippery sections of loose dirt, makeshift bridges over stream crossings and tough scrambles up boulders. The rope-assisted climb near Bongjeongam (봉정암) was perhaps the most dramatic of all: a small price to pay for sublime views!

This vertical image shows the author navigating a steep slope of loose, reddish dirt. She is holding onto a tree branch with one hand, and stepping down sideways with the opposite foot. She's looking down at the ground, concentrating on safety.
Bit of a slippery slope!
In this image, we see a narrow, rarely glimpsed little valley deep in Seoraksan National Park. A clear, shallow stream runs through some sand colored boulders. This rocky streambed runs through the center of the image, cutting through a forest consisting mainly of pine trees. The sunlight is filtered through a thick, low cloud, giving the photo an ethereal vibe.
Secret valley!
In another vertical image, the author has captured the final climb up to Bongjeongam. A rope, placed to help hikers up, runs through the center of the frame, large knots along its length. It is draped over some large grey boulders higher up and rests in some brown earth at the bottom of the frame. Trees line the way up to the right and there's a rocky cliff to the left that rises up and out of the frame.
Up we go!

I was overjoyed to be back at one of my favorite places. We stood on the rocks above Bongjeongam, our second secret temple, looking down on a peaceful scene. It was like a window into a different era; one where silence reigned and hikes like these served as meditations.

A portrait of Bongjeongam, taken from a high viewpoint. There are several rocky pinnacles jutting up above the foliage, but several disappear in the low-lying cloud. Several buildings are tucked into this verdant spot below the peaks and above the valley. It is a beautiful and peaceful scene.
One of my favorite places on Earth

A second image of the view above Bongjeongam, this one looking northwest. A wooden platform is set before an ancient stone pagoda. These are on a cliff, overlooking a gorgeous and dramatic valley view. Narrow, rugged ridges run here and there, sprouting sharply from the velvety green foliage.

After a little while, we continued on to another of my favorite places: Daecheongbong! On this day, the peak was all ours once again. We sat and enjoyed some stillness, as moist, heavy clouds draped themselves around nearby peaks.

In this vertical photograph, a trail of boulders leads upward, curving left. A forested peak rises above a little saddle in the ridge. There are several short, gnarled pines lining the trail to the right, and a pile of boulders to the left.
Towards the top!
A vertical portrait of the author and the Daecheongbong summit stele. She's wearing a blue tank top and long blue socks. She has one arm around the top of the stele and the other raised in a fist. She's grinning with delight to be in this spot. As always, the bright red Hangul lettering of the stele is a bright pop of color against the grey stones. The sky beyond the summit is completely white with clouds.

We descended through the mists down the Yangpok trail, where a little refreshing rain and a feast awaited us!

In this pretty photograph, a waterfall plunges over a bare rock face. A pristine blue pool lies at the bottom, darkening in color towards the falls. In this image, taken on a cloudy day, the rocks of Cheonbuldong valley appear almost purple with streaks of black. Fresh green leaves frame this vertical image - and the Yangpok trail!
Beautiful Yangpok trail scenery
An image of the high stone cliffs along the Yangpok trail in Cheonbuldong valley. Here, a pyramid-shaped rock formation rises up to a peak in the middle of the frame. A line of pines grows vertically across the middle, and still more pines fill the valley and line either side of the photo.
More loveliness in Cheonbuldong valley
A humorous, candid image of the author. She's sitting on one side of a picnic table, in front of a a plate of grilled bellflower root (a mountain vegetable special in Korea). She is grinning and possibly clapping her hands together in delight. She's wearing a red jacket, and there are several white serving bowls on the table as well.
My feelings about this feast

*This route described above makes a loop consisting of the following three segments: an ascent up Madeungryeong, the traverse between the secret temples Osaeam and Bongjeongam described below, and a descent down Yangpok. For more information on the Madeungryeong and Yangpok routes, head here. For more about Bongjeongam and an alternative descent via more temples, try the Baekdamsa article.

Know and Go! Osaeam to Bongjeongam

The trail between the two secret temples is just 4 kilometers long. However, both temples are in the heart of Seoraksan National Park, so you’re going to have to get there first!

For us, getting there involved linking up several of our favorite trails, with this section in the middle. We were after a long run, as pilgrims of the forest.

But most pilgrims make a loop starting from Baekdamsa temple that takes in both temples and the summit. If you’re interested in doing your own pilgrimage, it’s about 11 kilometers one-way. Get started by either walking up the road (6 kilometers) or taking one of the temple shuttle buses from the town below to Baekdamsa temple proper. Then, follow the one trail heading up for around 2 kilometers to reach Yeongsiam. From there, turn left and head through the forest for 2.5k to arrive at Osaeam. The trail narrows from here, and you’ll follow a more rugged path for the next 4 kilometers. Another 2.3 kilometers takes you to the peak!

After the peak, you can make a loop by descending back down to Baekdamsa on the main trail, bypassing Osaeam.  Descending this way makes a 24 kilometer loop, so some opt to break it up by sleeping at one of the shelters on top (by reservation only – on this website). The shortest descent option from the summit is, as always, the 5 kilometer Osaek trail. If you want to end up on the Sokcho side or you have a little bit more time and/or energy, take the 11k Yangpok trail.

A panorama taking in the scene just above Bongjeongam. A massive, rocky, grey cliff erupts from a stand of bright green trees. A large cloud has swirled in from behind and obscures the temple below from view. On the other side of a deep, emerald green valley, the long Namgyori ridge is visible.
Stunning scenery above Bongjeongam

Head back to the Seoraksan main page to check out other great hikes in this great national park!

Thanks for reading, and enjoy your secret temples adventure!


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