The very first national park in Korea. The highest peak on the mainland. A long ridgeline punctuated by multiple peaks. Dozens of scenic valleys. A sanctuary for moon bears. Jirisan National Park (지리산국립공원) is a one-of-a-kind place that will leave you enchanted. Here you can find all of the above – and all kinds of adventures!
I dare you to come here only once. I would be very surprised indeed if Jirisan didn’t lure you back with its vast landscape, filled with ridges and valleys ripe for running, hiking and forest bathing. It has certainly captivated me!
My first visit to Jirisan took place in 2014. After a short trip introduced us to the wealth of possibilities (that long ridge!), we immediately planned a second visit.
Then in 2016, Jirisan National Park was the setting for our first ultra trail race – and some incredible training runs, too. We also spent a special day hiking Banyabong – one of our favorite spots peaks!
Even as we explored other peaks and parks on our mountain missions, we could still hear the siren song of Jirisan. We couldn’t get enough of this pretty park! So in 2018, we went back to complete the Hwadae traverse, and explore a couple of lesser-known peaks on the northwestern spur.
I’m on record naming Seoraksan as my favorite park. I do love the bold, rocky features of those familiar peaks – and it’s the park I visited most (and first). But if I could name another favorite, it would be Jirisan. In many ways, Jirisan is Seoraksan’s opposite: its ridges tend to be densely forested rather than rocky. This makes for a comfortable, peaceful hiking experience, rather than a thrilling one. You can cover more ground, more quickly in Jirisan – which makes it a perfect place for a long mountain run! Jirisan also has a long stretch of high altitude and a remote location that Seoraksan lacks. There are no cities or highways visible from Jirisan’s main peak.
But, in other ways, Jirisan is similar to Seoraksan. There are jaw-dropping views, long climbs and lengthy challenges on Jirisan too. Jirisan National Park is spectacular in so many ways: it’s a must-visit.
The only question is: what will you do? Which part of Jirisan inspires you? How will you explore this magical mountain?
Join me on these Jirisan adventures:
Tips and tricks for enjoying Jirisan National Park
When to go
There are two annual closure periods that affect many of Korea’s big mountains. The fall fire prevention closure takes place from mid-November to mid-December. This is followed by a spring closure, typically from early March to mid-May for Jirisan National Park. Closures protect the ecosystem of the park during sensitive times and hikers from possibly dangerous conditions. But the closures typically only affect peaks and ridges: some trails might still be accessible. Check the official Korea National Park Service website for more information, and check Naver Maps before you go: trails marked in red indicate closures.
Jirisan has lots to offer visitors in every season: from cool rivers to splash in during the hot summer months to snow-topped peaks in the cold winter, and everything in between. The fall foliage here is colorful and abundant, and the spring brings a completely different riot of colors into bloom. No matter when you visit, you’re sure to experience exquisite scenery.
This is one of the most popular parks on the peninsula – and with good reason. However, there’s a true wealth of hiking trails here, so it never feels as crowded as some of Korea’s other, smaller parks. Busloads of hikers get spread out along the ridges and valleys. There’s lots of space to roam, and the dense forest and multiple peaks provide separation. So set your own pace, and enjoy the solitude and sociability in turn.
My main recommendation is to ensure you have enough time to enjoy this park. Plan a weekend away in Jirisan, and get up early to enjoy a full day each day.
Where to stay
Jirisan National Park has several mountain shelters, so you can explore to your heart’s content! This is highly recommendable, as it will allow you to maximize your time, and experience the peacefulness of the park at night. The shelters are reservation only, however, so remember to book in advance! Check out the reservation rules on the Korea National Park Service website, or ask a Korean friend for help!
The main tourist village lies just below Hwaeomsa temple, near Gurye. There are a multitude of accommodation options here: hotels, motels, minbaks, pensions – and even a resort! There are also convenience stores and lots of restaurants serving tasty mountain vegetable fare, so this makes an excellent home base. This is especially true if you plan to start your hike here and head straight up to Nogodan peak.
Although I personally refer the tourist town near Hwaeomsa, there are arguments for staying in Gurye as well. The train station is slightly outside of the city in the opposite direction of the park, but buses and taxis are easily acquired here. The bus terminal is in Gurye proper. If you plan to use the early bus up to Seongsamjae, staying here might be for you. I’ve had good luck with hotels relatively close to the terminal, but much worse luck with finding good restaurants or supermarkets.
For adventures on Jirisan’s less-popular but equally lovely northwest spur, stay in Namwon. This city can be accessed by train or by bus, and has good options for sleeping and eating.
But those are just the most common options! If you’re looking to really experience Jirisan and get a bit off the beaten path, check out the minbaks and pensions that line Jirisan’s valleys. In the south, excellent options abound in Piagol valley and around Ssangyesa temple. Or, venture to the far east or north of the park for a slice of authentic village life!
Hiking & Running
Here are some general recommendations for running and hiking in Jirisan National Park. Some options are covered in detail in the articles above, but as the largest park in Korea, Jirisan has a true wealth of trails. I’ve yet to explore them all myself! I’ll try to break down your options a little bit in the following sections.
The peak
It’s crucial to tag Cheonwangbong, the highest peak in mainland Korea at 1915m, at least once. The final ascent features an exciting climb, and standing on the dramatic summit is a great achievement! This rocky peak towers over the rest of the landscape. From here, you might have sweeping vistas – or none at all, because the height of this mountain means that you’re often in or just above the clouds. But fear not: a cloud sea view is splendid too. And stick around, as you’re sure to catch a new view as the weather changes quickly here. (Most hikers aim for an elusive sunrise: for an exciting alternative, enjoy a sunset on the summit for clearer views and less crowds!)
It is certainly possible to summit Cheonwangbong from Jungsanri in one big day if you start early (along with the majority of hikers visiting this park). But I’d recommend enhancing your experience by approaching the peak from the ridge. Practice a little delayed gratification, and the peak will be be even more special.
The traverse
Another highlight – and excellent challenge – is Jirisan’s long ridge. The ridge trail is 25.5 kilometers long, and passes over 13 peaks. A multi-day exploration of this ridge is an option, thanks to the many mountain shelters in this park.
For the very fit and fearless, tackle the Hwadae traverse: a 42 kilometer long trail beginning at Hwaeomsa temple, running the complete length of Jirisan’s main ridge, and descending to Daewonsa temple. This course is also known as the Jongju traverse, and can be shortened to begin at Seongsamjae and end at Jungsanri. To me, the Hwadae traverse is the Jirisan’s top highlight!
Other ways to play
For a slightly shorter adventure that still takes in some of the amazing ridgeline, set your sights on one of the peaks along the way. Make it a day-hike, or stay the night at a mountain shelter to enjoy the mountain at a more leisurely pace.
Banyabong is a terrific choice as an alternative to Cheonwangbong (and a great hike in its own right!). It’s just far enough along – and off – the main trail that it’s rarely crowded. There are stunning views to be had from its rocky summit (which may be nearly 200m smaller than the main peak – but still manages to be taller than Seoraksan’s summit!). From here, you can peek into the remote northern half of the park, and view the main ridge running east to west.
Samdobong is another nearby option that makes a great destination. This peak sits at the intersection of three Korean provinces and has a flat rock surface that seems to invite a picnic.
You can make a neat loop taking in Banyabong and Samdobong by starting at Hwaeomsa (for a good climb) or Seongsamjae (the shortcut). A descent into Piagol valley is a terrific way to end your day. Read more about this route here.
The quickest and easiest way to experience a little of Jirisan’s beauty is to take a local bus up to Seongsamjae, then hike just a few kilometers over to the sacred alter on Nogodan peak. This is just a matter of a few hours, no special gear or preparations required.
You could easily spend a day (or two!) just exploring one beautiful valley or temple area. Pretty Piagol valley, historic Samseonggun and the Ssangyesa temple area are particularly attractive options in the main part of the park.
Alternatively, you can climb Baraebong and explore the long northwest ridge of Jirisan. Here, you’re more likely to have the peak and paths to yourself, and the views are just as awe-inspiring.
And one last idea: follow the lightly used trails just south of the park around Gososeong and Hyangjaebong. These trails, that I discovered on UTMJ training runs, are some of my absolute favorites in the whole country.
Next step? Get yourself over to Jirisan National Park, and enjoy some of the finest long runs and hikes this country has to offer.
Happy hiking!