Before the Galapagos, there was Quito. And standing high above Quito was a mountain: Rucu Pichincha. Naturally, we needed to go – and so we planned a stopover!
This would be a climb unlike any we’d done in a good long while. Not since our days of galivanting around Switzerland had we been on a cable car! But this is the way to access Rucu Pichincha, so that’s just what we did.
Technically, the Pichinchas are three peaks to the west of the city. But one is the primary trekking destination, thanks to easy access, a short and well-groomed trail and mountainside snacks. That’s Rucu Pichincha, colorfully and charmingly also called Old Man Pichincha.
Since the TeleferiQo only opens at 9:30 am on weekdays, we got off to a later start than is usual for us. I’d woken up raring to go before dawn, but I wound up grateful for the extra hours in the morning. It gave the chilly valley of Quito a little time to warm up before we set out.
We were among the fortunate few at the very start of the line, and got to ride up with a hiking pup and his fam. On the 10-minute journey upslope, we could see Cotopaxi volcano in the distance. To my surprise, it was smoking slightly!
One of our fellows in the cable car informed us that this had been going on for several weeks. We must have looked alarmed, because he hastened to explain that there was no immediate cause for alarm. More disturbing, he went on, was the lack of snow cover. On closer inspection, I realized he was right. Cotopaxi was brown; not snow-capped at all. This visual observation lined up all too neatly with the reports I’d recently been reading about the impact of climate change on mountaineering.
I’d briefly envisioned us climbing that very volcano on our anniversary trip, but had to quickly rule it out. Although some ambitious (some say reckless) folks go for a Cotopaxi climb immediately after arrival, many sources recommend a longer acclimatization period – much longer than our current stay in Quito.
So Rucu Pichincha, while serving as an acclimatization target for many mountaineers, would be our final destination. Time to get back to the climb at hand!
Once we disembarked, we admired the puppy park, trail map and cafe at the top station – but did not linger. It was finally time to go, and we were eager to do so!
We’d brought precious little stuff on this trip. Traveling light is always the goal, but without our usual running gear, we had to get creative with how to bring enough water for this hike! We stashed all of our own water receptacles, plus some of the plastic bottles from our accommodation, in our green fastpack. Kent valorously offered to carry it.
Which left me light and carefree! Fast turned out to be in theory only, though, as Kent was speedier than me both on the trail and the scramble that followed. But I get ahead of the story.
Although eager to set out, we were in no hurry once on the trail. We’d left the whole day open for savoring this summit. We were both glad we had, because the hike was a wonderful one. There were waving fields of amber grass and sweeping vistas of the city far below. Other Andean summits pierced the clouds around us, and it was a beautiful day.
The trail was straightforward: a long, straight, double-wide ribbon of gravelly sand that stretched up the mountainside ahead of us. On the flat stretches it would have been buttery running. It was also basically impossible to lose the way, as in addition to the visible trail there were large blue signs every few hundred meters.
Perhaps my favorite part of our hike, other than basking in the gloriously warm sunshine and taking in the stupendous Andean views, were the plants! There were clusters of blossoming chuquiragua on the slopes: their bright orange blooms adding a delightful splash of color to the high mountain palette.
(I later learned some interesting lore about these ‘flowers of love’! I’m not sure about the bit about only growing on ‘male’ mountains, but it’s neat that only a single hummingbird species can feed from the chuquiragua!)
Eventually, the trail narrowed and became more rugged. We crossed under the peak to the northeast and entered what seemed like a brand new floral kingdom! There were irresistibly soft mosses and brand new types of flowers to admire.
But this botanical garden-style trail did not last long. Soon, it was time for the real work. The trail up the side of Rucu Pichincha to the summit splintered into a dozen tiny footpaths, each steeper and more scrabbly than the last. It was choose your own adventure time!
Kent, mountain goat that he is, bounded up with scarcely a falter in his footsteps. For me, it was another story altogether. I got by by switching into four-wheel-drive mode.
After about 15 minutes of what felt, to me, like some pretty dicey sidehill scrambling, we stood atop the summit of old man Pichincha! The views – and the altitude – were absolutely breathtaking.
We did not have the peak entirely to ourselves, as a few fastos had beat us up there. But they were off on the rocks to the side, sharing a picnic. So for a few glorious minutes, we goofed off: posing with the summit sign and being grateful for this good weather day.
We lingered a little, watching the clouds roll in on Guagua Pichincha, located just one rocky ridge away. We had the blissful sensation of being able to see the altitude but not feel it. Not only do we live at sea level, but 4696 meters is HUGE. I was grateful to be there and be feeling so fine.
Slow as my ascent may have been, my descent was slower. When we eventually left that special summit, I tried to pick my way carefully down the boulders, avoiding the slippery gravel sections that resembled giant slides. I was not always successful.
Even though it was a simple out and back route, the return trip was anything but boring. On our way up, we’d mainly been focused on the rocky summit of Rucu Pichincha ahead of us. Heading down, we lingered over the unique flora and enjoyed our bird’s eye view of our home-away-from-home in Quito.
Still, even ambling as we were, it was a quick descent. It had taken us 2.5 hours to reach the top, and only a little more than an hour down. So we decided to take a break and picnic with some sociable carunculated caracaras!
We slowed our pace still more as we approached the TeleferiQo. Not quite ready to rejoin the metropolitan hustle-and-bustle, I swung over it on what must be one of the world’s highest swings! We lingered at the puppy park in hopes of pals to pat. We even scoped out the cable car cafe.
Eventually, we did hop on the lift back down the mountainside. But our birdwatching adventures were not yet finished! While refueling at a clifftop restaurant, we were treated to a stunning display of Ecuadorian hummingbirds.
What a wonderful, successful day! It was reminiscent of our Korean mountain missions in some ways, but completely unique as our first solo Andean adventure. Hopefully the start of many more to come 🙂
Know and Go! Rucu Pichincha
TRANSPORTATION
There are many approaches to Rucu, but I’m going to stick with what I know personally. What we did is what most first-timers and visitors do: it’s the recommended route if you’re not familiar with Quito’s suburbs.
So step one is to get yourself to the TeleferiQo, which is a short taxi/Uber ride away from Quito’s old town. For reference, this is only 15-20 minutes from the Centro Historico. For a more local experience, you could also take the bus: it looks like the blue line #154 plies the Av. Mariscal Sucre. Walking/running are also absolutely possible if you’re looking for a 6 kilometer warm-up at a slightly lower elevation.
Next up is taking the TeleferiQo to the start of the hiking trail. A round-trip ticket costs $8.50 for an adult. Once up top, you can simply start your watch and rock and roll: the trail is easy to find!
HIKE & RUN
First things first: yes, there are other routes up Rucu Pichincha than the one I’ve described above. These routes start right from the city, and although they have a greater elevation gain going for them, they also pose a bit more of a security risk to the traveler. Get a head start on your research for those alternate routes with this Summit Post article.
If starting from the top of the TeleferiQo, you’re already at 3800 meters. This is 1000 meters higher than Quito, already lofty as the second highest capital city in the world. If you’re not already acclimatized, take a moment here to drink water and do a self check-in before you begin. Staying hydrated and moving at a steady pace will help with altitude, but it’s important to know the symptoms of AMS as well as your own limits. No shame in doing a mountainside hangout today and coming back for the peak tomorrow if you’re not feeling right.
If you’re feeling good though, the hiking and running are pretty straight-forward. Although there are a handful of side routes (which lead to llamas for patting, horse-riding stables and improvised snack shacks), all routes do lead to the same place. Follow the trail towards the peak, and you’ll get to Rucu Pichincha eventually!
It’s a 10.8 kilometer round-trip with, thanks to the TeleferiQo, only 767 meters (around 2500 feet) of gain. The first few kilometers are a steady uphill on a broad track. There’s nothing too tricky here aside from the aforementioned altitude.
A few hundred meters below the peak, the trail turns into a scramble, so be prepared mentally and physically. It’s completely achievable, but some folks might enjoy hiking poles for this area. My advice is to stick to the well-trodden tracks (to avoid trampling plants AND find the easiest way up) and take it easy. Note that it can be particularly tricky descending (unless you’re down for a gravel slip’n’slide), so the same advice applies on the way down.
Many mountaineers and mountain runners use this easy-access route for training, so you’ll be in good company. If in doubt, ask or follow a local!
STAY & EAT
There are snack shacks up here! Once a favorite of Kent’s in Korea, he also enjoyed sampling the fare at the huts above the TeleferiQo. There is also a proper cafe at the top cable car station – and a small shop at the bottom station. Alternatively – or additionally – you can pack your own picnic and enjoy it anywhere on the mountain!
Most people climbing Rucu Pichincha will be based in Quito. I personally loved staying in the Centro Historico. If you can find a spot in the old city, it’s a beautiful, atmospheric place to spend a handful of days!
OTHER NOTES
Rucu Pichincha is a volcanic peak that stands 4696 m (15,400′) tall above Quito, the capital of Ecuador. It’s one of a group of three related summits.
Kent and I hiked this mountain in just over 4 hours, on a trail just over 10 kilometers long. There were ample opportunities to picnic and picture-take, too.
We happened to hike on a beautiful December day, but do keep an eye on the weather. This is the tropics, it’s the Andes – and the weather can change in a snap. I strongly recommend bringing a warm/waterproof layer in case of sudden inclement weather. It’s also never a bad idea to bring more water and snacks than you think you’ll need, too.
Check out the most up-to-date conditions on AllTrails before you set out. Word to the wise, though: before the comments freak you out, remember that there are ALL KINDS of people doing this hike. Some might be more experienced while others are far less so. My advice? Read the most recent 5 comments, but take them with a grain of salt. Looking up the weather, being prepared with extra gear and asking a knowledgeable local are also great ways to get ready.
Be safe out there, and have fun on Rucu Pichincha!