Dinosaur dreams: revisiting Seoraksan’s most dramatic ridge (공룡능선)

Where spires slice the sky. Above coast and conifer. A knife’s edge trek to challenge the body and delight the mind. This is the rugged heart of Seoraksan National Park (설악산국립공원). This is Dinosaur Ridge (공룡능선)!

In 2014, our big three mountain adventure took us along the most jagged of Seoraksan’s spines for the first time! We completed our Dinosaur Ridge trek in the fall, and got to experience the beauty of the changing seasons in the forest below from on high. When we returned in 2017, we wanted to enjoy the dramatic scenery as much as possible once again. This time, we’d be on Dinosaur Ridge in summer – and we brought our fancy camera to capture it in all its glory.

A striking image of a rocky ridge rising up and out of a colorful forest. There are a few pine trees scattered around the forest and growing from the ridge, but the majority of the forest is a dark orange.
Autumn awesomeness on Dinosaur Ridge (2014)
Another striking image of the jagged spine of Dinosaur Ridge. This image is of the same section of the ridge as the previous image, making the seasonal change appear very dramatic. Here, the forest is emerald green and lush. It grows up and around the steep, rocky peaks as they rise towards the sky.
Summer awesomeness on Dinosaur Ridge in 2017

Our new adventure began before dawn under a dazzlingly starry sky. It began the minute the park opened at 4 am! We ran by starlight; past the sleeping stone Buddha statue and into the forest. We turned on our headlamps and climbed hard; up, up, up. Up wooden staircases and big boulders that formed natural steps, all the way up to Madungryeong pass – and the start of Dinosaur Ridge.

We paused on some steps just before the pass to look back across the park. It was one of the most beautiful sunrises I have ever seen. The sun rose slowly, a molten sphere of red gold, from a sparkling orange sea. It cast a warm, magical light on the east-facing ridge. It was as though the mountain itself was glowing gold from within.

A beautiful sunrise image, cast half in warm tones and half in cooler shades. The top of the photo is dominated by the sun's effects on the morning sky. The sun is in the exact center of the frame, a bright orange sphere. Below and to either side, the sky a deep pink. Just above the sun, the sky brightens to yellow and gold. Further from the horizon, there's a swath of pale purple clouds over a light blue sky. In the bottom of the image, the city of Sokcho is visible in silhouette in front of a sparkling deep purple sea. The black outlines of rocks and undulating ridges frame the bottom of this image.
Sunrise over Sokcho
A portrait of the author's husband. He's wearing a yellow t-shirt and a blue running vest. His brown hair curls over his forehead and he's smiling into the camera lens. He is lit only from one side, the golden rays of the sun painting the planes of his face and the curls of his hair.

The soft sunlight lit the jagged spires of Dinosaur Ridge, and far beyond them, the rounded twin peaks of Daecheongbong and Jungcheongbong. This was our first glimpse of our destination, but from then on, it was almost always in our sights.

A photograph of Seoraksan's Dinosaur Ridge from the trail up to Madeungryeong pass. The sunrise is casting a golden light on the rocky spires and thick forest, creating a beautiful scene. The twin peaks of Daecheongbong and Jungcheongbong rise high in the distance, behind Dinosaur Ridge.
The ridge, illuminated

From Madungryeong pass, we turned left to head south on Dinosaur Ridge. We were completely alone; contemplating the scenery in serene silence. We set off, walking a knife’s edge trail over the spines.

A striking image of the Dinosaur Ridge trail. Here, it curls up from the bottom of the frame and leads seemingly to the edge of a rocky cliff! A deep chasm, filled with sunlit forest, separates the cliff from the next rocky peak.
This trail!

Presented with vista after gorgeous vista, we were constantly turning stopping to stare. This trail in the heart of the park is truly something: showcasing Korea’s amazing geological formations and the local climate’s ability to completely transform the scenery from one season to the next. On this adventure, the tan-colored teeth of the ridge rose out of a wild and wet summer forest, teeming with the little lives of birds and insects.

A photograph of the author, looking out at a sea of sharp peaks rising out of the lush forest. The author has her back to the camera, with her hands on her hips and a blonde ponytail. The peaks she's gazing at are dramatic and beautiful, near vertical spires of grey and tan colored rock!

The peaks are so craggy here it’s hard to believe they’re real and not some sort of special effect or fanciful painting. We were so mesmerized by the scenery that time seemed to stand still. Stopping often, the beauty of the scenery completely filled our minds. Navigating over the tricky terrain also took all of our concentration.

A candid image of the author's husband scaling a rock wall with the help of two steel cables. He's gripping one and is reaching for another. The image is taken from above, so we can only see one of his feet angled into a narrow, rocky toehold.

Only when we started to see other hikers for the first time did we realize that we were nearing the end of Dinosaur Ridge, having traversed it like it was a lovely dream.

A selfie of the author and her husband. Both squint into the lens, smiling. There is a gnarled pine tree to the right beside the pair, but it is the background that steals the show. The jagged peaks and pinnacles of Dinosaur Ridge erupt from the forest, piercing towards the sky.
Now
A portrait of the author and her husband, seated on a large slab of rock. They're looking at the camera, wearing expressions of satisfied delight. The scenery behind and below them is tremendous. Rock columns pierce the rainbow colored forest, shafts of sunlight illuminating ridges and casting valleys into shadow.
And then (2014)

A quick dip into the forest, followed by another climb – and then we were standing our our sweet summit again. After a significant amount of time spent lurking at height, we went down into the depths of Cheonbuldong on the Yangpok trail.

An image of Kent, standing with the Daecheongbong summit stele. He's smiling, with one hand on the stele, his clothes and the writing on the stele vivid against a cloudy white sky. This image, taken from far away, shows the rocky area of the summit, with the city of Sokcho and the sea, hazy in the distance.
Peak and partner!
A portrait of the author with her favorite peak. She's standing to the right of the Daecheongbong summit stele. She has one arm raised and is grinning delightedly. She's standing on one of the many medium-sized boulders surrounding the stele. Several rocky ridges are visible in the background, and you can make out the sea in the distance!
The peak and me!

The last time we were on this trail was in 2012, descending after our very first summit of Seorkasan. Tall waterfalls, deep blue pools and walkways suspended over deep drops greeted us on the way down. This dramatically rocky area was every bit as stunning as the ridge above, only from a new, low angle! We descended slowly, savoring every sight.

A vertical image of a small Kent standing on a boulder below a huge, vertical ridge. He's barefoot, and a river is coursing around is boulder. He's also facing away from the camera, towards the incredible sights down Cheonbuldong valley
Inspired.

*The route described above makes a loop consisting of the following three segments: an ascent up Madeungryeong, a traverse along Dinosaur Ridge & a descent down Yangpok.

Know and Go! Madeungryeong pass (마등령)

First, get yourself to the east side of Seoraksan National Park (설악산국립공원). Then, find your way up to Madeungryeong pass (마등령). This trail is your best bet for getting up to the start of Dinosaur Ridge. In the past, this pass was a 4-way junction. A closed area to the north, and limited foot traffic down to Osaeam have turned this into more of a Dinosaur lead-in or lead-out. But this is an amazing route, full of fun climbs and gorgeous views. I think the upper part of this trail is the best place to see the sunrise in the whole park. It’s also thrilling to gaze toward the jagged rock teeth of Dinosaur Ridge as you approach, knowing that you’ll be standing up there soon, somehow! There are also great views of the peak – and if that’s your destination, seeing it off in the distance, towering high above all of the other peaks and ridges, is awe-inspiring.

An image of a Korea National Park Service sign board. Two arrows point the way back down to the park entrance and Biseondae rock. One arrow points the way towards Osaeam temple. The third arrow pointing to the right points the way along Dinosaur Ridge towards Huingak shelter.
The three-way junction at Madeungryeong
An image depicting the network of trails in Seoraksan National Park. There are several parallel trails on this map. The middle trail is Dinosaur Ridge!
Seoraksan National Park trail map

It’s 6.5 kilometers from the main park entrance at Seorakdong to Madeungryeong pass. About 3.5 of those kilometers are spent climbing up stairs and rocks over beautiful views. The start is easy, level trail through the forest until you reach Biseondae: a massive rock face that’s popular for rock climbing! Here, a right turn will have you ascending immediately towards Madeungryeong. (A left turn leads up the Yangpok trail, described below.)

Know and Go! Dinosaur Ridge (공룡능선)

The ridge itself is only 5 kilometers, but it’s some of the gnarliest climbing that one can do in Korea’s national parks. Coupled with truly spectacular views, you won’t want to rush it – so budget lots of time to enjoy it!

There is a lot of climbing, both up and down, with narrow passages in between rocks and sections of ropes. But this is a national park, so it is well-equipped and maintained, and never truly sketchy or dangerous. And it’s not all ropes courses and handholds – there are some flatter areas of normal hiking even here. Frequent plunging drop-offs provide thrilling views, but if you stay on the trail, these present no danger.

I’d say this route is doable for most hikers. Honestly, even if you’re a bit skittish around heights, I’d say give it a go anyways. There are incredible views to be had up there, and I’m sure you’ll be happy you challenged yourself and went.

Despite the hordes of hikers that descend every fall, somehow the trail is never too chaotic. I attribute this to widely varying hiking speeds and the Korean custom of pulling over for picnics along the route. If it does get a bit busy for your taste, stop for a photo op or a picnic yourself!

An additional map image. This slightly newer map (and image), showcase the same trails. Here, the trails are color coded, with the ascent up Madeungryeong and Dinosaur Ridge appearing in black - indicating expert level trails. Yangpok valley, in contrast, is primarily orange - indicating a medium level of difficulty.
One more Seoraksan National Park trail map

One more thing to remember: if you’re bound for the peak, it’s an extra 2.5k on. Thus, a one-way trip from the park entrance to the peak via Dinosaur Ridge is a rugged 14 kilometers or so.

Daecheongbong is present and accounted for on both of Korea’s 100 famous summits lists, of course. This is the Black Yak description, and this is the Korea Forest Service entry.

Know and Go! Yangpok (양복) trail in Cheonbuldong valley (천불동계곡)

The Yangpok route is a popular choice for a descent following an adventure on Dinosaur Ridge and/or the summit! The trail gets its name from a waterfall (and a shelter) of the same name along the route. It follows Cheonbuldong valley (also known as Seorak valley) back to the Seorakdong park entrance. From the peak, Cheonbuldong runs roughly northeast, basically below Dragon Ridge.

This valley is more than just practical – it’s absolutely stunning!  Cheonbuldong is a real feast for the eyes. Those steep, apricot rock walls that narrow and widen! The splashing waterfalls that fill sparkling pools! The catwalks and walkways alongside and overtop it all!

A photograph of Yangpok waterfall from an unusual angle: above the falls! White water rushes through a crevice between a peach-hued rock. The fluid scatters into droplets as it falls into clear turquoise pool below.
Yangpok waterfall
A captivating image of a covered trail running along the length of a narrow canyon. The pathway is metal, raised on stilts above the floor of the gully. It's covered by a thick green mesh. This trail is tucked against the right canyon wall. The steep wall on the left rises up and out of view, and a thin, fast-moving stream of water flows at its base.
Along Yangpok trail

Although I’m quite sure it would be lovely to climb as well, to date I’ve only descended on the Yangpok trail. From the summit, it’s about 11 kilometers to the park entrance (just 8.5 or so from the end of Dinosaur Ridge). These kilometers are mainly downhill.

The trail here is one of the most used by visitors to the park, and thus, one of the most developed. The steep sections are made simpler with wide staircases, and tricky traverses over slippery slopes are avoided altogether with wooden walkways. That makes this particular trail a perfect choice for a descent on tired legs. There are also several shelters along the way, so if you need water or desire a bit of a break, there’s options for you!

Head back to the Seoraksan main page to check out other great hikes in this great national park!

Thanks for reading, and enjoy your adventure on Dinosaur Ridge and beyond!

A panoramic image featuring the craggy Dinosaur Ridge and the small figure of the author, looking out into the park. Distant Daecheongbong, the highest peak in the park, is draped in lush green forest. The sky above the park is blue, with wispy white clouds here and there.

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