What’s the closest you’ve ever been to the stars? For me, it was on Siguniangshan in southern China, climbing Dafeng peak.
Our 2017 trip to China featured many kinds of fun, but our climb of Siguniangshan was to be the highlight. We even called this our Sichuan Summer, in honor of the province where this mountain stands, at the top of the Quionglai mountain range.
We were climbing Dafeng summit – the ‘eldest sister’ peak. Siguniangshan is often translated as four sisters mountain, and Dafeng, at 5,025 meters, is the smallest of the four. It’s a trekking peak, meaning no specialized equipment or technical skills are necessary for an ascent.
Even so, this would be a landmark ascent for us. Although we’d been up to a similar elevation previously (at Thorong La, on the Annapurna Circuit in Nepal!), this would be our first 5,000 meter summit! This very special first also involved other firsts, like staying over at base camp for an early morning ascent.
It also meant hiring a mountain guide. There are no permits required for Dafeng peak, and the route is straightforward, making this an adventure you can do on your own. But, as usual, we were trying to cram as much as we could into our precious holiday, and were too short on time to take the bus or figure out the arrangements on our own. Plus, we relished the opportunity to meet a local from the area and learn more about our mountain!
Apparently I did not learn my lesson at Mt. Emei. I had thought hiring a guide would be the best way around any logistical hurdles that cropped up. Instead, I rediscovered the fact that sometimes hiring a guide means unwittingly joining a tour group.
Although we would go on to have an amazing time on our Siguniangshan trek, it was only possible because we extricated ourselves from this group. They were friendly folks, but their approach to hiking was so alien to us (and vice versa) that it was hard to achieve any group cohesion. Many wanted to stay up late into the night, drinking, smoking and socializing. Our approach is more of the early to bed, early to rise variety, especially in the mountains. Nobody wanted to compromise, so nobody did.
Into Changping Valley
The first morning of the trek, Kent and I woke up before dawn in Siguniangshan Town, packed our day bags and prepared for our acclimatization trek up into Changping Valley. In addition to our eagerness to explore this famously beautiful gorge, we thought we were following the itinerary. We were surprised, then dismayed, to find ourselves waiting around for hours. The other members of our group seemed to take the plan as mere suggestion: enjoying their showers and ordering cooked breakfasts. It was mid-morning by the time we finally hit the trails, and the sun was high overhead.
We found ourselves naturally walking out in front, and decided to make the most of the day by striking out on a little trail run. We first ran in reverse to find our guide and tell him our idea, then dashed on ahead on our own.
I’m sure we missed out on budding friendships and trail comradery. But in exchange, we had a breathtakingly beautiful run through a green, pristine valley in meditative silence. This is how I do mountains: I can best appreciate my natural surroundings if I don’t have to worry about if I’m talking or listening enough. It’s not the only way to celebrate nature, but it’s mine, and that’s okay.
Our breakaway run, meanwhile, was more than okay. It was so enjoyable that we ran well past the end of the seven-kilometer boardwalk. Ten kilometers in, we entered a wide, grassy valley populated by grazing yaks and swaying wildflowers. Above, cottony clouds were torn by the spires of Siguniangshan’s four sister peaks. What a sight!
After a further five kilometers or so, we turned around. We briefly rejoined our group, but decided to keep the pace up and zoom back to the start. Another wise decision on our part, because it allowed us to linger at Lama Temple.
The temple was enchanting: incense wafting sweetly, accompanied by ethereal music. The faithful spun golden prayer wheels and gestured for us to follow in their footsteps. A monk approached, and wordlessly asked if we might like to light a candle. What followed was magical: the monk led us through the motions of making a prayer and bowing to the Buddhas inside the temple. To think that our candle might be burning there even now!
The late afternoon brought rain, so we scurried back to our hostel to warm up with hot showers. Afterwards, we were more than happy to put our feet up. It’s not every day that you get to run 30k at elevation!
Over Haizi Valley
We had a good rest, but we did not set out in better time for the main trek, either. In fact, the next morning was more hectic, with one member of the group suddenly deciding not to hike. But when we eventually did venture outside, it was another glorious day in the mountains, under the Sichuan sun.
Hustling out in front, we set a snappy pace that would enable us to linger over photo spots and snack stops. Although equally beautiful, this day’s trail was nothing like the previous day’s route. Our trail in Changping Valley was on a boardwalk that ran through the center of the valley, below the massifs. This route, in contrast, was actually well above Haizi Valley: a narrow ribbon of earth ascending the ridge to the left of the valley.
There were scenic stupas and prayer flags fluttering in the wind, framing incredible views of Siguniangshan: all four sisters together, sunlight glinting off their snowy summits. But my favorite sight was the yaks. There were dozens and dozens of them, lining the trail and on hillsides near and far. I even approached a few of the adorable wee ones!
Around 4000 meters, we had some of the best views of the whole day: rocky and snowcapped mountain peaks topped by cotton candy clouds, a plunging gorge to a white river fed by innumerable waterfalls, and gorgeous green pastures dotted with wildflowers. I was tempted to burst into song.
When we reached base camp in the early afternoon, we simply dropped off our backpacks and kept hiking. We wandered up a green hillside to sit among tiny alpine flowers and hardy, flat-leaved plants. All around us were plunging green valleys – one populated exclusively by striking white horses. We didn’t leave until our shadows were long and the sun was threatening to set.
To their credit, our tour group had whipped up a mean dinner back at the alpine hut. We joined them for a feast of rice, vegetables and steamed buns and got to talking at last. But thinking ahead to our early start, Kent and I soon said goodnight; leaving the party while it was still twilight.
Summiting Siguniangshan on Dafeng Peak
I was wide awake at 2:00 am, and it was all I could do to wait for our 4:00 am departure time. We climbed Siguniangshan steadily through a light fog, a twinkling of headlamps in our wake. The stars above us twinkled back, and I could scarcely remember a time when they’d looked so bright and so close.
We ascended to a saddle, and the ground leveled out enough for us to appreciate the views behind and ahead. A few more rocky steps forward, and we reached a railing that underlined one of the most beautiful views I’ve ever seen. The blue light of approaching dawn illuminated a sea of undulating silvery clouds topped by sparkling white snowy peaks and the black shapes of rocky summits. It was sublime!
And we hadn’t even reached the top yet! We continued to climb, with the rail as our guide. At some point, we realized that we were alone, leaving fresh footprints in patches of snow. Somehow, we’d emerged ahead of not only our own group, but the numerous other trekking groups as well.
Turning a corner brought Youmeifeng, the youngest sister peak, into focus against a pastel sky. The snowy tips of the other summits – and the exciting lights of some mountaineers on the ascent – were also visible. We had a perfect view of the changing colors of the sky over three sister peaks as we ascended the fourth.
At Dafeng summit, we were alone with an incredible panoramic view: peaks and clouds as far as the eye could see, in every direction! And just in time for a stunning sunrise over the sea of clouds. I was positively dizzy from spinning in circles to try to take it all in. It was an unforgettable moment.
But it was indeed only a moment, because I got suddenly terribly cold. My feet turned into senseless bricks and I started to shiver. I didn’t want to descend, but my chattering teeth made aware that we needed to. Leaving the gathering crowd behind, we descended slowly. I thought we’d be sad to be the first down, but I was happy to have feeling in my feet. Besides, we had a lovely time relaxing with the local flora and fauna as we waited downhill.
The return trip was back the way we’d come up, so we got to enjoy Haizi Valley a second time. I had the unique opportunity to join other women pooping in a trough together (ask me, if you dare!) and then, after a slightly awkward goodbye to our group, we headed down the mountain to get loopy in the thick air of Chengdu. And despite our somewhat antisocial behavior on the trip, our guide (bless him!) even took us out for some spicy noodles.
Know and Go! Siguniangshan
TRANSPORTATION
Full disclosure: we hired a car and driver (one and the same as our tour guide) for this trip. What’s more, we did this all through a travel agent. I have mixed feelings on recommending this to anyone, because you can get to Siguniangshan Town from Chengdu on your own. We had to use an agent because we were visiting Lhasa, and so simply used the same agency for all of the things that needed advance booking. For the record, we used Tibet Vista. They did an excellent job of arranging our visas for Tibet, but I wouldn’t necessarily recommend their other services to independent travelers.
To book a guide and driver with a travel agency is easy enough: just tell the person you’re working with that you want to hike Siguniangshan’s Dafeng peak! Be sure to ask questions about the length of the trek and accommodation options.
To get to Siguniangshan on your own, take a public bus from Chengdu’s Chadianzi bus station. Buy a ticket for Xiaojin, and let the bus driver know you’re headed to Siguniangshan Town (formerly known as Rilong). Don’t worry, saying the mountain’s name should be all you need. But if you’re nervous, print out the name of your destination in Hanzi and have it on hand to refer to.
HIKE & RUN
Dafeng summit is not your only option in the area. Siguniangshan is famous for three main hiking areas, all of which have tremendous views of the four sisters.
As described above, you can enjoy a relatively flat run or trek into Changping Valley on a boardwalk. Enjoy upwards of 30 kilometers of gorgeous views, and don’t forget to stop at the temple on your way out!
The slightly further flung Shuangqiao Valley is also purported to have tremendous views and accessible trails.
But if you’re headed to the summit, it’s Haizi Valley you’re after. There are multiple routes, including several trails that stick to the valley floor and won’t grant you access to the peak. One option is to start in Haizi Valley, taking the first left fork to climb up onto the ridge.
Alternatively, you can start right from the hairpin bend in highway 6350 just mountainside of Siguniangshan Town. You’ll know you’re in the right place by the sight of the colorful prayer flags dotting the ridge! There’s also a back route up from Changping Valley, but be cautious about attempting this independently: you might accidentally find yourself en route to another sister summit, none of which are trekking-friendly.
How much time you need depends on your pace: it’s 12 kilometers one-way to Dafeng base camp and a further 2.5 to the summit.
STAY & EAT
Staying and eating is easy, thanks to Siguniangshan Town. Located at the base of the four sisters, you have options right at the foot of the mountain. Siguniangshan Town has some beautiful architecture, but veggies beware: animals are slaughtered and prepared on the street. I found it a surprisingly difficult place, personally, and was eager to get to the mountain!
Siguniangshan is a small place, but it is a tourist town. There are plenty of hotels and restaurants. Related to the above, you might want to get a Chinese friend or agent’s assistance finding a good spot if you’re picky about where you sleep and eat. Otherwise, adventure awaits!
If you want to summit Dafeng, you’ll likely overnight either at base camp or in a tent. Camping is also an option for valley treks. Bring your own or rent equipment in Chengdu, as it might be difficult further up the mountain without prior arrangement.
OTHER NOTES
Dafeng is a 5,025 meter peak belonging to Siguniangshan in China’s Sichuan province.
We ran 30 kilometers in Changping Valley to acclimatize. Our Dafeng summit hike was also around 30k, spread across two days.
This adventure was part of our Sichuan Summer in 2017 – a two-week tour de force of several of China’s highlights.
Have a swell time on Sigunianshan, friends!