Occasionally, we take the signposted trail to popular sightseeing locations. That might not seem like our MO, given our previous Laoshan outing, but sometimes we’re down for a simple, scenic stroll. And that was how, on one random Thursday off in August, we found ourselves on the Jufeng loop.
Our trail running adventures in China so far had been gnarly. We’d done a bit of wilding to reach the Jiankou section of the Great Wall a few years back. More recently, we were lost in the wilderness northwest of Laoshan. However, for this spontaneous mid-week outing, we decided to do things the easy way.
This meant taking a string of taxis and buses to Laoshan’s official entrance. The main entrance was very official indeed: featuring a cavernous building housing dozens of ticket booths and an array of snack and souvenir stalls. But we were the very first to arrive, so we had the place to ourselves!
Our entrance ticket included a bus ride to the start of the trail. As two of just three passengers, we sat at the very front to watch as we swung up switchback after switchback. The bus deposited us at a cable car station, not yet open for the day’s crowds. We began to climb alongside the high wires, steadily rising around 700 meters.
Despite the paved trail, but perhaps because of the lack of crowds on it, we found this part of Laoshan to be really lovely. It was still and serene, despite being almost urban. Rugged peaks above dense forests reminded me of Korea, but the hundreds of stone steps were reminiscent of Hong Kong. The weather had turned out foggy and cool, making everything magical but also making us laugh. Seems like we like hot runs and cold hikes.
Determined to have an easy, relaxing day, we opted in on every single side trail. We found lots of cool caves and gazebos in the forest. Then we were above it, hiking a loop at the top! We went first to Lingqi Peak: the highest viewpoint. To our surprise, there were some workers up there with us, rebuilding a gazebo. We marveled at a stone bridge over a chasm filled in with clouds.
More thick fog as we continued down the trail. Although beautiful, our stroll was very much on rails – lots of closed areas kept us from other peaks and viewpoints. But we were so happy to be there early on a Thursday and to have the place to ourselves. I loved having extra time to line up photos and appreciate the mountains at a slower pace.
At one point, we stumbled onto another section of the Laoshan 100k course. What a contrast: this safe, cement trail with our June adventures on the same course just a few kilometers away!
We only started seeing other people when we were on our way back down the mountain. But then we found them in their hundreds! This, in addition to being cool and damp after being enshrouded in the fog, spurred us to jog gently downhill. At the very end of our hike we found a nice gazebo – and a little sun! – that was perfect for a picnic.
Sometimes it’s nice to do things the normal way! We enjoyed spending a little more time on the Jufeng loop and seeing the postcard-perfect side of Laoshan.
Know and Go! Laoshan – Jufeng
Transportation
Laoshan National Park is located just outside of the seaside city of Qingdao in Shandong Province, China. Qingdao is a popular tourist destination, so there are numerous ways of accessing the city, including bus, rail, international and domestic flights, even via ferry service!
Once in Qingdao, you’ll want to make your way to the northeastern edge of the city. Public buses are available, but can be tricky to negotiate without having a basic command of Chinese numbers (for payment) and a digital map of the area so you know where you’re going. But don’t let that scare you off: you can save a lot of money by taking buses around China, and Laoshan is the area’s most famous destination. If you lack confidence or want to ride in comfort and privacy, hire a taxi (didi).
Note that once you arrive at the Laoshan Mountain Tourist Center, you’ll take another bus (and possibly a cable car, for an additional fee) to your destination. There are numerous sightseeing areas in the national park, but Jufeng is the closest to Qingdao (and the tourist center).
Hike & Run
The Jufeng loop is the longest and most mountainous hiking area of Laoshan National Park – and possibly also the most scenic!
To reach it, you first take a bus from Laoshan Mountain Tourist Center – private cars are not allowed on the steep mountain road. From the bus stop at the top, you can either take a cable car or hike approximately three kilometers uphill to the start of the loop. The trail up features a lot of steps, but will almost certainly be less crowded than the cable cars. There are also some ruins, grottos and gazebos to discover just off this path!
The loop at the top is a long oval encircling rather than climbing to a peak. Going counterclockwise will take you first to a scenic overlook known as Lingqi Peak: a rocky prominence complete with photogenic gazebo and a cloud bridge. This is the highest part of the trail. The loop undulates mildly and follows a wide, paved track. There are plenty of sights to see all the way around, including rock formations and engravings.
The uphill start would seem to make for some good elevation hill training if you’re running it, but note that you’ll be battling thick crowds if you go anytime other than dawn or deep winter. The route is all pavement, and it’s a bit on the short side for a trail run. But it makes for a lovely hike at around 13 kilometers – including all side-trails!
Stay and Eat
At the time of our hike, we were living in Qingdao, so I can’t really comment on the accommodation options. Ditto the food – as we had the luxury of cooking for ourselves and packing plants for our picnic. But rest assured that there are lots of options in Qingdao: it’s a massive city with numerous tourist facilities! Try HappyCow to find your best best for veggie feasts – or cut costs by doing your grocery shopping at local markets and dining on convenience store fare.
Other Notes
Unfortunately, you can’t currently climb to Jufeng Peak. This article rather describes a pedestrian course encircling the peak. The highest point hikers attain is the scenic Lingqi Peak at 1033 meters.
Keep in mind that you need to pay admission to visit Laoshan National Park, including the Jufeng Scenic Area. But your entrance ticket includes unlimited bus rides around the park for two days (cable car journeys are extra).
Kent and I explored Laoshan’s Jufeng loop in mid-August 2019. We took a hike on the main loop, as well as checking out every side trail, ending up with about 13 kilometers of adventure.
Of the numerous tourism website, I think this one has the best information about Laoshan’s various scenic areas. Scroll down to read more about Jufeng specifically.
Take a walk on the wild side of Laoshan here, or join us for more jaunts around China!