…and Ulleung Island (울릉도)
I have been waiting to write this post for some time now. This is one incredibly special place in Korea that I think deserves a top spot on your priority list. Ulleung Island (울릉도) is not just for mountain lovers, although Seonginbong (성인봉) is spectacular. This small speck of jagged land, almost lost in the sea between Korea and Japan, is for everyone. It’s a true treasure island.
Ulleungdo is remote. It does not have an airport (yet), and ferry services are often canceled due to bad weather or rough seas. Accommodation is limited, so travelers must book in advance. Just getting to to the island is an adventure!
Once you arrive, all kinds of other adventures await. You can drive or take a bus around the road that almost encircles the island (I love that it doesn’t quite). Stop for a snack (or to stay) in one of a handful of little port towns, nestled between the steep velvet hillsides and the crashing surf. Discover classic white lighthouses propped up on the edges of rocky cliffs, or take a walk near the shore to see fanciful rock formations rising up out of the sea. You can take a boat trip either to admire the jagged coastline, or to set foot on the famed Dokdo island.
But all of the best adventures are inland, where the roads don’t penetrate and primary forest dominates the landscape. Seize the opportunity to travel from one side of the island to the other on foot, over the towering peak of Seonginbong. Descend into the fertile Nari basin and look up at several sawtooth peaks. If you stop to listen, it might be completely silent save for the sound of the wind. The white crests of waves far below are often visible through cracks in the green wilderness of the mountain slopes.
Our trip to Ulleungdo and Dokdo is one of my favorites. In all of Korea, and in all of the time we’ve spent here, this one stands out. Like rocky Seonginbong, rising like a beacon above stormy seas.
Getting there
The first attempt
That alluring remoteness means that trips to Ulleung Island don’t always work out. Long on our list of places to go, we finally scheduled our trip for a long weekend in June 2017. We’d had a heck of a time getting the ferry tickets, ultimately resorting to asking a coworker to help us when I failed repeatedly at using the Korean website. Time was also going to be tight. Just getting to the ferry in Pohang was going to take us most of Friday night!
Luck was on our side (or so it seemed), and we made all of our bus connections. We slept near the port, dreaming of Dokdo. The next morning dawned cloudy but still. We were relieved that it wasn’t raining, because we’d heard so many stories about ferries being canceled in poor weather.
It was off to the port next, to ensure we were early for our boat! When we arrived, the ferry terminal was strangely silent. By silent, I mean completely vacant. The doors were unlocked, but there was not a single soul inside besides the two of us. Where were the other passengers? The workers? A knot began to twist in my stomach. This did not seem especially lucky.
We waited and looked around, and a few other people popped in and left again. Although I tried to ask some questions, we were no closer to an answer. I noticed that we’d received a message while we were walking to the terminal. It informed us that the ferry might be delayed or cancelled, and that we would be notified again in a few hours. So, that’s what we were doing: we were waiting, in limbo. I supposed all of the other passengers read this message and stayed in the comfort of their homes or hotels. Not everyone needs to be as early as we do.
We waited in limbo for the rest of the day. We ate most of the snacks out of our backpacks and emptied the drink machines. It was not until the ferry company finally confirmed that no ships would be leaving the port that day that we left the terminal. It was 3 pm, and we were starving.
Over a couple of bowls of bibimbap, we discussed our options. We were a minimum of 2 bus rides and 6 hours away from home. Saturday was gone, but we still had Sunday and Monday. Although disappointed about missing our chance to go to Ulleungdo, we had known this was a possibility from the start.
But we were right next door to my favorite city in Korea: Gyeongju! I suggested that we go there, and make the most of our weekend by playing in the mountains of the national park. After all, we had never climbed Tohamsan, the mountain above Bulguksa and Seokguram…
So we didn’t get to go on our island trip, but we did get to spend some serendipitous time in one of our favorite places. You can read about our Gyeonju adventures here – but keep reading for our second chance at Seonginbong!
The second chance
Fast forward two months. There was another long weekend in August 2017. The plan was the same: to try to reach Ulleung Island. We hoped that our persistence in trying to reach this far-flung bit of Korea would pay off. And this time, it did!
We actually used a tour company to book our ferry tickets and motel. That’s not something we usually do, but it seemed like it would make the practicalities of this trip somewhat easier. This time, we’d be leaving from Donghae’s Mukho port – slightly closer to our home. Still, the same story played out on the Friday before our trip: the rush out of work and onto the first of 3 buses; the worry about the ferry getting suddenly canceled.
Although it was a windy, overcast morning, there were no updates about the ferry. So we went to the terminal, which to our delight, was packed. We got our tickets, queued up and soon were boarding the boat to Ulleungdo!
I really enjoy a journey by ship. My forehead pressed against the window, I spent the trip looking out over the undulating swells of indigo. I trained my eyes on the horizon, hoping to be the first to spot the island.
Ulleung Island rose steeply and suddenly out of the waves. The peak of Seonginbong was wrapped in a thick curl of cloud. Amazed by this very first glimpse, it seemed incredible to me that people could have settled here. The mountain slopes terminated in cliffs that dropped away to the sea. It seemed inhospitable to human life.
As we drew closer, the island retained all of its grandeur, but the lush green of its forests softened its tough edges. Closing in on the docks, the town clinging to the bottom of the mountain beckoned with all the charm of a hidden getaway. Although the architecture was still very much Korean, it had the air of an exotic destination.
Joining the other travelers taking their first steps on the island, we piled into a packed bus. I braced myself against the seats and Kent, swaying around every curve in the twisting road. We had arrived!
Seonginbong (성인봉)
Of course, the first and foremost thing on our minds was climbing Ulleungdo’s highest peak, Seonginbong! With only 48 hours on the island, we needed to get started right away! We dropped our bags in our little motel room and strapped into our running vests. Within half an hour of landing, we were ready for adventure!
We did not, however, start running immediately. Right after our return from China, plantar fasciitis attacked. I’d never felt anything quite so painful: a stabbing in my right heel that made even walking difficult. It had probably been developing for a while, but I’d ignored the strange prickle when I first stood up every morning until it bloomed into an injury. I was getting treatment, but felt like I was recovering slowly.
So we would ascend Seonginbong at a peaceful pace. Perhaps it would be better this way: we’d have more time to appreciate the pristine forest and unique island scenery! The climb began as soon as we left our motel room. The street rose at such a sharp angle that I found it pretty amazing that they’d built it at all. We passed a small temple at the edge of the town. And then our road began to weave back and forth in steep switchbacks.
Looking down, the miniature town was like a postcard. Waves crashed into the cliffs, sending up sprays of white water. And we kept rising.
Eventually our road turned into a trail, and that trail led into a lush, shady forest. Ferns grew in abundance on the damp forest floor, and their circular, symmetrical shapes lent an air of magic to the place. Ancient trees towered overhead, cloaking the trail in green.
There were several groups of picnickers off to the sides of the trail. With energy from excitement and my foot mercifully at ease, we started to speed up. We passed several hikers and entered the cloud resting on the mountain slope.
The peak was rocky and grey. Thick clouds curtained off the summit area from the rest of the island. The spectacular views we knew existed were hidden, so we focused our attention locally, on the ferns and flowers. We waited our turn for a picture with the summit stele as little drops of moisture swirled in the cool air around us.
It was late afternoon, so we couldn’t linger. We hurried downhill the way we’d come…mostly. A sign at a junction reminded us of another natural feature that we wanted to see, so we headed off towards Bongnae Falls. Leaving the well-groomed summit trail behind, we thrashed through the thicket of jungle-y plants until we finally reached the falls. Well worth the visit, they were spectacular!
The light fading fast now, we broke into a run. Amazingly, this did not hurt my foot at all, so we zipped down into the port. But with so little time on the island, neither of us wanted to waste it indoors. We cleaned up and went on a little nighttime wander.
The next morning we woke up with Seonginbong still on our minds. We were not finished playing with this peak yet: today’s mission would be to climb up and over it!
Feeling surprisingly spry, I chased Kent up the mountain at a run. It felt so good to be moving quickly again, and so good to have a second opportunity to explore this mountain and its beautiful forests.
Although the morning sky below was bright and sunny, once more we climbed up into the cloud encircling the summit. This time, we had the peak to ourselves!
On the north side of the mountain, stairs were the mode of descent. So many wooden steps were raised to protect the ecosystem of the forest floor. At a lookout, we had glimpses of the only flat place on the island: Nari basin! In this basin, farmers are able to cultivate fresh food for the islanders. It’s a beautiful sight from above: a little green meadow surrounded on all side by sharp, toothy peaks.
We dashed down, meeting more and more hikers as we went. In the meadow, we took time to appreciate the details of the flowers and the rugged beauty of the surrounding landscape.
Another sign pointed us on, towards more adventures! Actually, the best part of the day was still to come.
We ran past traditional farmhouses and semi-wild looking fields of crops. A footbridge led us over a ravine, and back into the forest. We were climbing again, and steeply!
We emerged above the forest. A vista unlike any I’ve ever seen spread out before my eyes. We were standing on such a steep peak, one that offered panoramic views of dreamy island scenery. The sea below was so blue and sparkly in the sunlight. The green growth in Nari basin was made greener in contrast to the grey clouds shrouding Seonginbong. Smaller, jagged peaks pierced the clouds here and there. I felt like a bird; looking down at tiny homes set on carefully tended lawns, little roads stretching in between.
It was perfect, and I wanted to stay forever. This was one of the longest stops we’ve ever done in the middle of a run, and it was the most worthwhile. We were alone up there! The weather was perfect and the views were sublime. I could not believe our good fortune in finding this secret little peak, and I was absolutely awed by the beauty around me.
Finally pulled forward by the siren song of more lovely sights, we eventually did descend. We found a little garden right below our towering peak, and ran on little roads towards a town. At one point we ventured onto what might once have been a trail, got profoundly lost in the kudzu and returned to the road.
The sea elevator we’d hoped to find in Cheonbu port was closed. And we were in danger of missing the last bus back to the other side of the island. There were more things to see on that remote northeastern corner of the island – but not for us. Not this time. Still, I couldn’t feel too disappointed after spending such a perfect day in the mountains! Plus, the whole bus ride home on the road hugging the coast was new territory too.
Other Ulleungdo fun!
Our double Seonginbong climb was the major adventure of our trip, but by no means the only one!
We spent both evenings walking along the coast. The enormity of the ocean and nothing but the sparkling stars overhead reminded us just how distant from most of modern civilization we were. It felt a little like we’d traveled through time as well as space to this little island on the fringe. There were dozens of pop-up restaurants serving the evening’s catch and musicians entertaining small gatherings of people.
What we were after though, was more wild. We found it exploring the Haengnam Coastal Walking Path. This trail connects the ports of Dodong and Jeodong using a series of catwalks, caves, stairways and suspension bridges. The middle section of the path was damaged and off-limits during our stay, but we enjoyed walking either end.
Definitely our favorite evening excursion was sneaking up the darkened footpath to Haengnam Lighthouse. The night view over Jeodonghang harbor was magical. The bright lights of boats on the horizon seemed bent, as though we could see the very curve of the Earth from our viewpoint.
On our final morning, we went up to the Naesujeon sunrise lookout point and found a temple hidden in the cliffside jungle.
And then, we went to Dokdo.
Dokdo (독도)
This tiny rocky island has extreme historical and cultural significance to Koreans. A video about it plays on the train to and from Incheon International Airport. It’s included on even the most basic maps of Korea. And, going there on the ferry, every single one of the Koreans surrounding us held some kind of Korean flag. It was very patriotic and moving.
As we splashed through the rough seas, a helicopter buzzed by; flying low over the water. Unlike Ulleungdo, Dokdo doesn’t have any villages or ports. It has a single lighthouse, maintained by one family, and a military base.
Through my surf-splattered window, I could see the twin hulks of Dongdo and Seodo emerging from the waves. On steep and storm-battered cliffs, no grasses or plants grew. Just wet, black rock; standing strong in the breaking waves. It was a desolate place of stark beauty and isolation. Our small ferry pulled up and idled against a small dock.
We had been informed that we would have precisely twenty minutes to enjoy the scenery from this dock and the little stretch of rocky land on Dongdo we were permitted to set foot on. As we were disembarking, several soldiers dressed in all black and wearing sunglasses appeared to guard us.
Wiggling our way through the tour groups, we were some of the first people off the boat. We gazed around in awe, and hurriedly snapped a few pics to capture the loneliness of the scene. There wasn’t much space, so our roaming consisted of tight turns and peeks around corners. It was really cool, and we did our best to appreciate every view and soak up the vibes before our time was up. Kent even captured our little journey on GPS as a neat memento of being somewhere so remote.
Know and Go! Seonginbong (성인봉) & Ulleung Island (울릉도)
Transportation
The only way in or out of Ulleung Island is by ferry! There are multiple ports where you can catch a ferry from the mainland, including Pohang, Gangneung, Donghae (Mukho), as well as the smaller Hupo. There are three ferry companies offering services to Uleung Ilsand: Seaspovill, Daezer Shipping and JH Ferry. It is possible to bring a car or bicycle on certain ships. Double-check which port you’ll be sailing into, as there are a few.
One-way tickets cost around 60,000 won regardless of which company or ferry you choose.
We went with the Seaspovill ferry. I had a tough time booking my tickets online. Perhaps ask a kind Korean person for some help. But definitely book your tickets early, because these do sell out!
Once on the island, you can walk/hike, hire a taxi or take the bus that circles the island during daylight hours.
Dokdo can only be visited by way of Ulleungdo. The ferry companies listed above also provide round-trip boat tours to Dokdo.
Hike & Run
Small hikes and walks are plentiful, including the Haengnam Coastal Walking Path and several lighthouses and lookouts.
But the main attraction, of course, is Seonginbong – the top of Ulleung Island! Naver maps shows multiple trails to the summit, but it seemed to me like there were only two open trails: one to the south – beginning in Dodong port, and one to the north – leading to Nari basin and Cheonbu port. It’s a shorter climb starting in Dodong, which is where most people stay. I would like to strongly encourage you to head over the mountain and across the island to Nari basin. With awesome new views and great public transit, there’s really no reason not to do a point-to-point here.
Unfortunately I never came across a proper trail map on the mountain (please let me know if you do!).
If you can, seek out Gitdaebong on the north side of the island. Kent and I absolutely loved this pointy peak: there are magnificent views of the sea and Seonginbong!
Stay & Eat
A quick look at a map of Ulleung Island will reveal lots of places to stay. But remember, this is a small island, and tourists from the mainland all tend to come at the same times (long weekends, spring/summer/fall holidays). It’s probably be in your best interests to book yourself somewhere to sleep in advance. If your language skills are lacking, ask a Korean friend for help. Along the same lines, don’t be surprised that basic accommodation goes for much higher rates than the mainland. What would be a 50,000 won per night motel room in Gyeonggido will be twice the price in Ulleungdo. Still worth it!
You’ll also need to choose where to base yourself. There are several small towns along the coast, all with accommodation options. The bulk of the choices are in Dodong – the main port. This is also a convenient place to stay in terms of accessing both the main Seonginbong hiking trail and the main ferry terminal. However, farther-flung options might be attractive for the solitude and cultural immersion opportunities they offer.
We stayed at Ocean Park Hotel in Dodong for two nights, which cost us 200,000 won.
In terms of food, this is probably a seafood paradise – but I wouldn’t know anything about that. There are no international chain restaurants on the island, and I saw little evidence for any of the domestic staple eateries either. If you have a special diet or aren’t into seafood, consider renting a pension rather than a motel. Pensions often have little kitchens, and there are grocery stores in the port towns. We heard about some locally grown greens, but unfortunately never got a chance to try them!
For our trip, we brought along a few snacks…
Other Notes
Seonginbong is on the Korea Forest Service 100 noted mountains list, available here.
Seonginbong is a rocky summit measuring 984 meters.
Kent and I successfully visited Seonginbong as part of our Ulleungdo and Dokdo trip in August 2017. We did two climbs of the peak: an out-and-back of about 15 kilometers, and an island traverse of just under 20k.
Check out the fun Ulleung Island website for help with planning your trip!
For more marvelous mountains, head back to the 120 summits main page!
These pix & commentaries are spectacular Carrie; love them… I feel like I am there with you!