I had been here before, but it wasn’t what I expected. Saryangdo (사량도) was not, in fact, part of Hallyeohaesang – the national park I’d been aiming to visit. It was, however, a perfect little mountain mission all its own! And this time, I was visiting the island of love with my own love!
We arrived by ferry. It’s the only way to get to this little island off the coast of Tongyeong in Korea’s southeast. Boats to the island depart from an appropriately small terminal on the outskirts of town. On the ride over, everyone was making merry. I remembered this from my first trip, too: a ferry ride is a ticket to party in this country!
Four years ago, I’d traveled to this island with a friend and a tour group. I wasn’t myself, then. With no experience with either ferries or hiking, I remember secretly feeling a little nervous about both. The trip had been hyped as challenging and thrilling: was I up to it?
Seated on the outdoor deck on this 2016 trip, we watched the jagged edges of the island come into focus through the mist. Looking back, it was the mainland that was now invisible. All I felt this time was excitement: I could not wait to show Kent this beautiful place! We were on our feet before we reached the harbor, determined to be among the first to set off for the day’s adventure!
From the harbor, it was a short little jaunt through the city to reach the greenery, followed by a quick but steep climb up. Within no time, we were standing on top of the island. What this little mountain lacks in height, it more than makes up for in prominence! We had stupendous views over the harbor and the dramatic bridge that connects Saryangdo to its twin Hado. This hike, sometimes called the Jagged Ridge hike, is famous for a reason!
Memories of my 2012 hike filtered through the views. The sheer cliffs strung with dangling ropes definitely provided the promised thrills. I’d taken shaky and uncertain steps along the rocky ridge until, finally, the beauty of it opened up my eyes and my heart. I could suddenly see the pretty place where I was, and it lit me up with joy. Now, I knew this mountain – and I knew myself to be at home on the rocks. Kent and I charged on, laughing and chatting and looking out over the sea.
Dozens of colorfully-clad hikers dotted the ridge both ahead and behind: we were certainly not alone on this popular hiking route! But that was fine: everyone just went along at his or her own pace, exchanging friendly greetings in passing. Our particular pace for the day was fast: so we soon zipped ahead of the crowds.
One of the highlights of the route is the cloud bridge that spans a plunging gap between two peaks. It was thrilling and fun to peek down at the forest far below. A little breeze and a few playful footsteps created a bounce that was extra exciting! There were also great views to be had over a little town and its small harbor.
There was a rhythm to this hike. We’d climb up one rocky peak for sweeping vistas, then immediately plunge over the edge into the forest. Hiking ribbons made colorful garlands on overhanging branches, and signs pointed the way onwards. Soon, we’d climb up a long set of stairs to arrive on another summit! Although the path is pretty built-up, there are some tricky, rocky sections – and of course, these were now my favorites!
The route is particularly exciting because as you travel west, the peaks rise higher and higher above the sea. Looking back offers a great view of the rocky ridge and the previous peaks! Many Korean hikers and tour groups head in the reverse direction, from west to east. Trekking in this direction allows you to end right at the port, and saves the spectacular views of the area until the end. But on this particular outing, we enjoyed a progression of peaks.
One advantage to this route being so famous is that there are little snack shacks set up along the way. We popped by one to get Kent a popsicle treat!
The main peak along Saryangdo’s ridge is named Jirisan, interestingly enough – just like the highest peak on the mainland! Although in many ways the two Jirisans could not be more different, there are similarities: the long lead-in ridge, the rocky peak with commanding views, and the fame that they share. Although this island is not well-known among foreigners, it is a favorite amongst Koreans for its beautiful scenery and exciting climbs.
After spending some time perched like eagles above the maritime views, we descended. We used the ropes I’d once been scared of to scramble down jagged rock faces. Eventually we arrived in a rock garden on the lower mountain slopes. I high-fived my husband to celebrate an awesome day in the mountains. Then we ran along the winding, seaside road. back to the ferry terminal.
Sailing back to the mainland, we enjoyed a feast of roasted sweet potatoes with the salty sea breeze in our faces. The soothing sounds of waves against the side of the boat lulled me into contemplation. How lucky am I to have finally found the place I belong, and the person I belong with! So much had changed in me during the four years between my adventures, but my delight over the pretty peaks of Saryangdo was just the same.
Know and Go! Saryangdo Island
Transportation
As far as islands go, Saryangdo is much less remote than say, Chujado or Ulleungdo. Still, this island’s location off the southeastern coast of Korea does make it a bit distant. To get to Saryangdo, you’ll first need to make your way to Tongyeong (while you’re there, be sure to check out Mireuksan and its views over Hallyeohaesang National Park!). Tongyeong itself is a bit out there: it is not served by train and is a long bus ride no matter where you’re coming from.
Saryangdo has a dedicated ferry terminal which is slightly northwest of Tongyeong proper. A quick search on Naver in 2018 brings up results for the main Tongyeong terminal as well – but we’d researched the Saryeongdo Yeogaekseon Terminal (사량도여객선터미널) and went with it. This is a significant taxi ride away from Tongyeong, so if you have your own wheels or a friend who does, you’ll be extra lucky.
However, as always, I entreat you not to be put off by the travel required to get here. Korea is actually a small country, and spending a few hours on a bus is a small price to pay to reach a spectacular hike.
Hike & Run
You should hike Saryangdo! This island has long been one of my favorite recommendations. I think the reason it remains at the top of my list is because it is such a neat little experience, book-ended by ferry journeys. It’s far enough away to make a great weekend getaway if you choose. Plus, it’s one of those wondrous places that combines sea and summit!
The long, spiny ridge is the highlight of this hike. Most hikers complete the whole ridge, visiting every peak and enjoying every viewpoint. The ridge is not terribly long, so there’s no reason not to go for the whole thing. I promise you’ll be happy you did!
Which direction you want to traverse the ridge is up to you. I’ve done it both east to west and west to east, and enjoyed it both ways. Heading west means you get to start right from the ferry terminal as soon as you arrive, and climb an ascending series of peaks. Heading east means you’ll need to get over to the far trailhead first, but you’ll get to climb an exciting series of ropes and end your day with stunning views over the narrow gap between Saryangdo and its neighbor Hado.
Don’t worry too much about your choice: both directions offer exciting climbing and breathtaking views. You’ll be happy either way, so do whatever you find exciting or convenient.
Our hike of slightly over 8 kilometers took us slightly less than 4 hours. This consisted of some fast walking punctuated by a lot of photo stops.
Stay & Eat
If you enjoy seafood and a laid-back atmosphere, this is probably a great getaway destination for you. If you’re a fancy cat with strong preferences or a picky eating style, better pack a picnic.
We did not stay the night on our trip, so I can’t comment on the accommodation options other than to simply say that there are some. Minbaks and pensions mainly, so if you’re going over a holiday, it might be wise to book in advance! Otherwise, there are plenty more options back on the mainland in Tongyeong.
Same goes for the restaurants: I did not dine on the island, so all I can say is that you almost certainly can. But your options might be limited to seafood and mart snacks! We were extremely lucky when we went: we’d been planning on simply snacking on our own fare – but there was a sweet potato vendor camped out in the ferry terminal! Oh lucky day.
Other Notes
Saryangdo’s Jirisan, also called Jiimangsan according to some sources, is on the Korea Forest Service 100 noted mountains list, available here.
Kent and I explored the island of love and its jagged ridge in June of 2016. This was during our original mountain mission year. We’d actually aimed to visit a national park and missed. Turns out, Saryangdo lies just outside the park’s maritime boundaries! But it was a very happy mistake, as we got to revisit a lovely mountain and confirm it as a favorite. And we did ultimately succeed in our mission to visit Hallyeohaesang the next day.
Jirisan is the main peak of Saryangdo’s jagged ridge, and stands 397.8 meters above sea level. Dalbawi is actually slightly taller at 400 meters. But there are actually terrific views from all the peaks, and all along the ridge!
The world’s briefest brief on the island can be found here, and there are several recent blogs with Saryangdo features that can be found with a quick google search.
Want more of Korea’s marvelous mountains? Return to the 120 summits main page!