Palbongsan. The smallest mountain on our list – yet the most spectacular. One of my favorites in all of South Korea, Palbongsan’s super scenery cannot be missed.
I love a random day off. We were gifted with a mid-week holiday thanks to local elections. And I knew just what to do with it: make a beeline for nearby Palbongsan!
Despite Palbongsan’s relative proximity to our home in Inje, we decided to take the weirdest way. We went into Seoul the night before (for a PLANT feast, naturally), and then slept in Chuncheon. I know it sounds strange, but we’d researched a direct bus from there.
The next morning, we were giddy with excitement as we rode along towards our mountain destination. We spotted Palbongsan’s characteristic folding screen shape from the bus and were delighted by it long before we actually began hiking!
Once on the ground, we walked across the river to get into proper starting position, taking in the mountain’s shape all the while. We paid our entrance fees and hit the slopes! Beyond the gate, there’s a little bridge over some lush green ferns, and then the hike Palbongsan hike begins.
Almost immediately, Palbongsan’s trails are made up of switchbacks and steps! The steepness has the effect of making you feel like you’re making progress very quickly. We were on the high way up to the first of eight peaks!
The first peak made for a very exciting start to the day! With a small summit stele and boulder-turned-cairn, it’s very photogenic. This peak towers high over the river valley: a scene in green.
As promised, Palbongsan’s 1bong did indeed surprise us twice with its steepness and amazing views. We lingered a little, but knew more fun was waiting!
Pushing on, our precipitous descent was aided by railings, metal steps, ropes, and ladders. We had barely reached the bottom of these when our next ascent presented in a similar fashion! Palbongsan was thrilling, and we were just getting started.
I was especially delighted atop 2bong! This is Palbongsan’s highest peak, and it features a shrine that I didn’t know was up there! I was actually very moved by it and left some of our precious, imported energy jellies as an offering inside.
A second shrine building was closed, but we could explore a metal platform that extended out past the rocky tip of the mountain. There were two fluttering flags out there, and stunning, bird’s-eye views of the meandering Hongcheon River. I had all but decided to live there when Kent began prompting us onward.
We went down, down, down, then up, up, up again! Palbongsan’s third peak was a very exciting and exposed one, with possibly some of the best views of all.
Peak number three was quickly followed by the peak number four, where there was a choice of crossing a sky bridge or being ‘reborn’ through a rock crevice! We chose the former, but we watched another couple experience the latter! Palbongsan continued to delight.
We dropped way down again, from the exposed height of the rocky peaks to the cozy forest below. Kent and I looked at one another before commencing our next climb, both of us grinning from ear to ear. Just how many fun obstacles and dramatic views could one little mountain contain?
On to peak number five!
Peaks six and seven were fun scrambles too. Having the time of our lives, we were enjoying each exciting climb and descent as much as the peaks!
Palbongsan’s 8bong had the longest climb/scramble to the top and this rocky summit was incredibly prominent. It was also pretty special, being the final one!
From this peak, we had our best view back at the summits we’d already scrambled, and over the fertile river valley. Once again, I never wanted to leave.
But descend we eventually did, so as not to hog the pleasures of this peak and make them accessible to other hikers. The last leg of our Palbongsan route was one steep, sustained downhill!
At the bottom of the mountain, the trail followed the river’s edge. But this too was exciting! Sometimes we were ducking under rocky cliffs and sometimes we strode out on little bridges over the water.
We exited Palbongsan the same way we came in and walked back along the far side of the river. Not feeling finished with this stunning scenery, we took a short detour to an observation platform. From there, all of Palbongsan’s shapely ridge was in view.
We stayed on for some bibimbap and gamjajeon in Palbongsan’s little tourist village. Kent got crunk, we lazed away the afternoon riverside and finally took a sleepy bus ride home. And that’s what I would call a perfect day!
KNOW AND GO! PALBONGSAN
TRANSPORTATION
Palbongsan is Hongcheon’s mountain, and in my humble opinion, the county’s claim to fame. The Olympic freeway, number 60, connects Seoul to the Gangneung via Hongcheon. That makes it nice’n’easy to drive or take a public bus to Hongcheon! The city is about ninety minutes from Seoul.
From Hongcheon, two local buses serve Palbongsan. The shorter option is an hour-and-half journey on the Bukbang-Bangok-Mogok bus. The stop is called Palbongsan, so you can’t miss it! The other option is a two-hour trip on the Palgong-Buknoil bus. Get off at the Palbong/Jamsu stop.
If you’re driving, Palbongsan just is a 30 minute drive from Hongcheon! Also, if you happen to be based in Chuncheon or enjoy more circuitous routes, you can also take a bus directly to Palbongsan from there! Ninety-nine minutes on the Namsan 2 bus will take you straight to the mountain.
HIKE & RUN
Palbongsan’s hiking is straight-up awesome. You must do all eight summits that this mountain is named for. Although this is the smallest mountain on the 100 summits lists, it’s also one of the most thrilling – I want you to experience it for yourself! The whole loop is just over four kilometers – but packs a massive punch.
Palbongsan is located on a bend in the Hongcheon River, and is ever so scenic. It’s rocky and prominant, and each peak is unique and distinct. This mountain is a tiny treasure: when we climbed down after our eight peaks, I just wanted to do it all over again. And you easily could!
The only note I’ll leave you with is that I think it’s always better to do things in the correct order. Don’t you think so? The fine folks responsible for Palbongsan agree, and as a result the hiking is unidirectional. You start on peak one and end on peak eight, which means an ascent on the southeastern side of the mountain. You’ll be at the main peak in no time, but the fun doesn’t stop there!
STAY & EAT
You’re going to like the Palbongsan scenery a lot. Plan to stay in the area if you have the weekend. There are campsites, pensions and other rooms for rent along the river. This pleasant area also features convenience stores and restaurants, so you’ll have all your needs taken care of in one place.
I can’t say I really recommend Hongcheon as a destination. Maybe it’s the sheer number of times we had to stop there on a bus going elsewhere when we lived in Inje, but I find it to be a bit charmless. However it does have motels and supermarkets to meet your basic needs.
Palbongsan is close enough to Seoul to make a day trip. However, while you’re in Hongcheon county, you might want to check out Gongjaksan. Gongjaksan is south of Hongcheon, while Palbongsan is north, so the two can’t be combined on foot, but they certainly can be combined into a weekend mountain adventure!
OTHER NOTES
Though the smallest peak of our 120 summits mission, Palbongsan was one of the most dramatic! This mountain’s 327 meters are all jagged rock. It is a thrilling and essential inclusion on both of Korea’s 100 summits lists. Discover Palbongsan on the Korea Forest Service listing or the Black Yak listing.
We didn’t run Palbongsan – I’m not sure that one could or that anyone would want to! Instead, our 4.4 kilometer point-to-point route involved a variety of methods of movement: climbing, scrambling, sliding and a little sitting too. We visited Palbongsan in June 2018.
Palbongsan has 119 friends in South Korea. Find them on the summits main page.
Treat yourself to a day out on Palbongsan!
