Muhaksan (무학산)

Named for it’s crane-like shape, Muhaksan (무학산) is a memorable mountain. Although many Korean mountains are said to bear resemblance to various creatures, this time I was delighted to truly see how this mountain got its name.

A portrait of the author with the Muhaksan summit stele, overtopped by a waving Korean flag. The author stands still, smiling into the camera. There's a helipad behind the summit area.

After a busy day spent climbing other mountains, we only reached the sprawling urban landscape of Masan around 3pm. But our timing was pretty much perfect for watching sunset up top!

We found a place to park close to the trailhead, which was already in deep shadow. After gearing up (again), we signed in with a friendly fire watch volunteer. Then we scurried upwards.

A portrait of Kent, standing alongside the summit stele at the top of Muhaksan.

The first thing we were struck by was how urban and well-loved this mountain is. It never closes – it’s open through fall fire season and spring thaw. There were a few little temples and some farms or dwellings on the lower slopes. Even once we left all that behind, there were several places with workout gear and resting benches.

Muhaksan’s trail wasn’t one strict, set route, but rather a network of paths that meandered this way and that, meeting up in narrow passages through the forest. I love this kind of mountain. It’s so good when people love their landscape and spend time playing with it daily.

A photograph in light and shadow. Muhaksan's lower slopes are in deep shadow as the sun sinks on the other side of the mountain. But the port city of Masan is still catching the final rays of this winter's day.
Muhaksan & Masan

A few twists and turns beyond a resting platform, we came across a huge rockfall. We paused there, both of us feeling a little tired: eager for an excuse to take a picture. It was there that a lone grandmother, wearing a fanny pack, zipped past us. Two mountains in, we were not in our finest form, that’s for sure!

A photograph of a rockfall on a steep slope of Muhaksan. Someone has collected some of the smaller stones and built them into a small tower in the foreground.
Pictured: the rockfall (spot the small cairn!). Not pictured: giving up ground to an octogenarian.

We crossed paths with a handful of hikers heading down from the top. Although we were moving slowly, it didn’t take long to reach the ridge. Once there, we encountered a staircase with 365 steps – one for every day of the previous year! We climbed up it, following the posted instructions to reminisce about last year – which for us meant recalling the happy times and many peaks of our second mountain mission!

Here Kent poses on the stair representing December 8th - the day this photo was taken! He's wearing a red sweater and holding four trekking poles.
Grateful for this good lad, and today (12.8)!

At the top of the steps, we reached another ridge that was open, grassy and inviting. There were benches and platforms just begging us to have a seat and enjoy ourselves. But we were not at the top yet!

A vertical photograph of the beginnings of a set of 365 stairs up to the summit of Muhaksan. This part of the mountain is in shadow. The golden grass combined with the brown wood of the stairs makes this appear like a sepia photograph!
Round 2: Into the future!

There was a second 365 step staircase, this one specifically for contemplating the future. This was somewhat harder to do for me. I tried to think positively about upcoming challenges – but honestly I felt a little adrift. In December 2018, we weren’t even sure where we would be next month, let alone next year!

A photograph in brilliant light and deep shadow. The sun glints brightly from behind the summit stele on the crest of the mountain, drawing rainbow-hued lines through the image. In the foreground is a fire watch hut and telecommunications tower.
Arriving at Hakbong, Muhaksan’s peak!

Luckily our immediate future was bright – literally and figuratively. We made it to the top of Muhaksan in the last warmth of the winter sun. The summit which was a huge open area containing a massive helipad, multiple maps and benches, and….another foreigner! The three of us investigated the large summit stele and talked about a pictographic map that explained why this mountain is named after the crane. For once, I saw it: Muhaksan really does have the shape of that graceful, flying bird!

A photograph of a sign illustrating the ways in which the ridges of Muhaksan spread out to resemble a crane in flight!
The mountain is a crane!

But the very best part our our summit experience was the pastel sky over the sparkling Hallyeo sea. After a few minutes spent in the last light of the day, we turned around. We aimed to be back at the car before dark, so it seemed necessary to hurry. I dashed down the steps, but Kent followed more slowly.

A photograph taken at sunset on Muhaksan. The rocky summit is illuminated in the final rays of light, while the sky above is peach and periwinkle.
Stunning sunset colors on the sea.

Eventually I lost Kent and found myself retracing my steps. He reported feeling dizzy and generally not feeling great. I thought he might be hungry, so I encouraged him to eat a bar. We decided to take it slow, and walked down the darkening stairs hand-in-hand.

Back at the base of Muhaksan as the city lights began to twinkle, I felt really thankful that we’d managed our three mountain day right when the days were at their shortest. And then we fell in love with Masan: a surprising, secret little metro, complete with treats in our favorite edible forms! What an excellent, successful day.

A selfie of the author and her husband. Both are wearing masks and hats, and stand in front of a large wooden sign bearing the mountain's name, height, and of course, an illustration of a crane.
Another variation on the summit stele, atop Muhaksan

Unfortunately, by the time we reached our motel a few hours later, Kent had a fever and I had a headache. We were no longer feeling quite so excellent or gung ho about a second day of climbing. After a sleepless, anxious night, we knew we were kidding ourselves about embarking on a second day of mountains. Our mission is magical, but the most important thing is health.

So unlike our very busy Saturday, we spent Sunday sleeping in and then driving slowly home.

KNOW AND GO! MUHAKSAN

TRANSPORTATION

Masan is accessible! No matter where you’re coming from, you can get to Masan. This surprisingly great little city at the foot of Muhaksan has a KTX train station and two bus terminals.

Of course, if you’re coming from somewhere in south South Korea, you’ll have a distinct advantage. Masan is in South Gyeongsang province, not too far west of Busan, and just across the bay from Geoje island.

From Masan, Muhaksan is extremely accessible. The mountain forms the western boundary of the city, and trails begin in multiple neighborhoods. While you could easily walk to the nearest trailhead from the KTX or intercity bus terminal, you could also hop on one of many city buses or hail a taxi to get a head start.

HIKE & RUN

One of the great things about Muhaksan is the density of trails! I can clearly imagine living in Masan and doing my daily training on the mountain. And I would not be alone: no doubt many locals do just that!

For a first time visitor, I might recommend one of the major routes alongside the stream. This offers you a chance to enjoy Baekunsa temple and Muhak waterfalls before reaching the peak (and the meditative stairs en route!).

If you want more mountains, heading south and then veering west will take you on an almost circular tour of other peaks in the area!

A Muhaksan trail map. This unusual map is oval-shaped, but featuring the same green background with multi-colored lines representing trails.
Look at all these options!

STAY & EAT

I highly recommend staying and eating in Masan! I was quite charmed by this bustling little metro with great sea views. That said, this may have had something to do with access to creature comforts. Tired and hungry, we wanted something familiar and got what we could trust to be meat- and dairy-free at our favorite chains. If I were you and I had a little time to spare, I’d seek out a mountain vegetable bibimbap shop – I know there must be one there somewhere!

OTHER NOTES

Muhaksan towers over Masan at 761 meters and offers great views out to sea. The crane mountain is splendid enough that Korea Forest Service took note – and so can you, right here.

In December 2018, Kent and I got our butts kicked by a grandma on the way up Muhaksan and did not beat the dark down, either. Our outing was 5 kilometers long.

Muhaksan was our last stop on a very busy Saturday. Earlier in the day, we also climbed Dongaksan and Geumsan. And earlier in the year, we climbed nearly 120 more special summits!

See if you can spot the crane from the top of Muhaksan. And enjoy this memorable mountain!


Leave a Reply