Named for it’s crane-like shape, Muhaksan (무학산) is a memorable mountain. Although many Korean mountains are said to bear resemblance to various creatures, this time I was delighted to truly see how this mountain got its name.
After a busy day spent climbing other mountains, we only reached the sprawling urban landscape of Masan around 3pm. But our timing was pretty much perfect for watching sunset up top!
We found a place to park close to the trailhead, which was already in deep shadow. After gearing up (again), we signed in with a friendly fire watch volunteer. Then we scurried upwards.
The first thing we were struck by was how urban and well-loved this mountain is. It never closes – it’s open through fall fire season and spring thaw. There were a few little temples and some farms or dwellings on the lower slopes. Even once we left all that behind, there were several places with workout gear and resting benches.
Muhaksan’s trail wasn’t one strict, set route, but rather a network of paths that meandered this way and that, meeting up in narrow passages through the forest. I love this kind of mountain. It’s so good when people love their landscape and spend time playing with it daily.
A few twists and turns beyond a resting platform, we came across a huge rockfall. We paused there, both of us feeling a little tired: eager for an excuse to take a picture. It was there that a lone grandmother, wearing a fanny pack, zipped past us. Two mountains in, we were not in our finest form, that’s for sure!
We crossed paths with a handful of hikers heading down from the top. Although we were moving slowly, it didn’t take long to reach the ridge. Once there, we encountered a staircase with 365 steps – one for every day of the previous year! We climbed up it, following the posted instructions to reminisce about last year – which for us meant recalling the happy times and many peaks of our second mountain mission!
At the top of the steps, we reached another ridge that was open, grassy and inviting. There were benches and platforms just begging us to have a seat and enjoy ourselves. But we were not at the top yet!
There was a second 365 step staircase, this one specifically for contemplating the future. This was somewhat harder to do for me. I tried to think positively about upcoming challenges – but honestly I felt a little adrift. In December 2018, we weren’t even sure where we would be next month, let alone next year!
Luckily our immediate future was bright – literally and figuratively. We made it to the top of Muhaksan in the last warmth of the winter sun. The summit which was a huge open area containing a massive helipad, multiple maps and benches, and….another foreigner! The three of us investigated the large summit stele and talked about a pictographic map that explained why this mountain is named after the crane. For once, I saw it: Muhaksan really does have the shape of that graceful, flying bird!
But the very best part our our summit experience was the pastel sky over the sparkling Hallyeo sea. After a few minutes spent in the last light of the day, we turned around. We aimed to be back at the car before dark, so it seemed necessary to hurry. I dashed down the steps, but Kent followed more slowly.
Eventually I lost Kent and found myself retracing my steps. He reported feeling dizzy and generally not feeling great. I thought he might be hungry, so I encouraged him to eat a bar. We decided to take it slow, and walked down the darkening stairs hand-in-hand.
Back at the base of Muhaksan as the city lights began to twinkle, I felt really thankful that we’d managed our three mountain day right when the days were at their shortest. And then we fell in love with Masan: a surprising, secret little metro, complete with treats in our favorite edible forms! What an excellent, successful day.
Unfortunately, by the time we reached our motel a few hours later, Kent had a fever and I had a headache. We were no longer feeling quite so excellent or gung ho about a second day of climbing. After a sleepless, anxious night, we knew we were kidding ourselves about embarking on a second day of mountains. Our mission is magical, but the most important thing is health.
So unlike our very busy Saturday, we spent Sunday sleeping in and then driving slowly home.
KNOW AND GO! MUHAKSAN
TRANSPORTATION
Masan is accessible! No matter where you’re coming from, you can get to Masan. This surprisingly great little city at the foot of Muhaksan has a KTX train station and two bus terminals.
Of course, if you’re coming from somewhere in south South Korea, you’ll have a distinct advantage. Masan is in South Gyeongsang province, not too far west of Busan, and just across the bay from Geoje island.
From Masan, Muhaksan is extremely accessible. The mountain forms the western boundary of the city, and trails begin in multiple neighborhoods. While you could easily walk to the nearest trailhead from the KTX or intercity bus terminal, you could also hop on one of many city buses or hail a taxi to get a head start.
HIKE & RUN
One of the great things about Muhaksan is the density of trails! I can clearly imagine living in Masan and doing my daily training on the mountain. And I would not be alone: no doubt many locals do just that!
For a first time visitor, I might recommend one of the major routes alongside the stream. This offers you a chance to enjoy Baekunsa temple and Muhak waterfalls before reaching the peak (and the meditative stairs en route!).
If you want more mountains, heading south and then veering west will take you on an almost circular tour of other peaks in the area!
STAY & EAT
I highly recommend staying and eating in Masan! I was quite charmed by this bustling little metro with great sea views. That said, this may have had something to do with access to creature comforts. Tired and hungry, we wanted something familiar and got what we could trust to be meat- and dairy-free at our favorite chains. If I were you and I had a little time to spare, I’d seek out a mountain vegetable bibimbap shop – I know there must be one there somewhere!
OTHER NOTES
Muhaksan towers over Masan at 761 meters and offers great views out to sea. The crane mountain is splendid enough that Korea Forest Service took note – and so can you, right here.
In December 2018, Kent and I got our butts kicked by a grandma on the way up Muhaksan and did not beat the dark down, either. Our outing was 5 kilometers long.
Muhaksan was our last stop on a very busy Saturday. Earlier in the day, we also climbed Dongaksan and Geumsan. And earlier in the year, we climbed nearly 120 more special summits!
See if you can spot the crane from the top of Muhaksan. And enjoy this memorable mountain!