Gwanaksan (관악산) was the sixth and final summit of our ‘new mountains’ Lunar New Year trip. Though this was not technically a new mountain to me, but rather a much needed revisit!
I first climbed Gwanaksan with some work friends in 2011. I loved the experience, but had no idea yet how much the national hiking obsession would find an adherent in me as well.
Like my first Gwanaksan experience, our 2018 climb was a fun, casual and social hike. We got a bit of a late start on this February morning, but we also had a good sleep plus an unusual but delight breakfast of veggie burgers!
Like most urban Seoullites, we started up the adventurous way from Sadang station.
Despite our desire to keep it casual and catch up with our friend Sandra, our trail featured lots of exposed scrambles! This is, after all, South Korea: where even the most casual hikes can take a turn for the thrilling!
At times I was struck with a sense of familiarity: this must have been the way I climbed the last time, I would think. At other times, I was completely certain that I’d never been there before. Which makes sense, considering the density of trails on Gwanaksan. There’s more than one route, for every route!
We ascended an exciting ridge, stopping to enjoy multiple peaks and viewpoints along the way. Kent and Sandra even patronized a makgeolli vendor on the trail!
We celebrated the summit along with dozens of other hikers. Gwanaksan is a working peak, populated with lots of towers and a huge sphere of unknown purpose. It’s also populated by a posse of mountain kitties – although they were less friendly to us once they determined that we did not have any tiny fish to share.
The Gwanaksan stele is cool and really unique: an inscription carved directly into a huge, dramatic rock face. There’s also a temple up top, where we made a brief stop during our sojourn on the summit.
Then we opted for the easy way down: ambling our way along on wooden steps beside a river to reach Gwacheon. We lucked out with terrific visibility and great trail conditions, despite the season. It was wonderful to share one of our mountains with a friend. For once, we were doing things Korean-style: climbing socially, sharing snacks and treating the hike not as a workout but as leisure.
KNOW AND GO! GWANAKSAN
TRANSPORTATION
One of the easiest mountains to access of the whole 100 summits experience, Gwanaksan is located ultra-conveniently in southern Seoul. It is completely surrounded by the Seoul subway network, and is served by innumerable buses.
Gwacheon, Anyang and Guro neighborhoods all have direct access to the mountain, but the most popular access point is from Sadang station in the north. Follow signs – and crowds – from exit 4 and you’ll be on the mountain in minutes!
Coming from outside of Seoul, the Gwangmyeong KTX station might be of use! The fastest trail access from there is by taking a taxi or local bus 1-1 to the Gwanak subway station area, where you can find neighborhood trailheads.
HIKE & RUN
While purists might point to national parks for the ultimate mountain experience, Seoul’s urban mountains have population density on their side. The sheer abundance of hiking humans means that numerous trails have been cut and remain well-maintained throughout the year – whereas a park in a wilder region might only have only a couple of trails that require annual closure periods.
I personally love the noisy, colorful and cheerful throngs of Koreans and snack tents that crowd Gwanaksan’s slopes. It’s a celebration of a great love of the outdoors, every single day – and I think that’s great, don’t you? There’s vendors in abundance for your snacking needs, and you are all but guaranteed to make new friends. Someone will happily take your photo at the top and you can avail yourself of some spicy side dishes if you desire. What’s not to love?
If you do crave solitude, hit the summit at dawn or dusk on a weekday or perhaps in winter. Or stick to the smaller trails on Gwanaksan’s slopes to do something a little different, and on your own.
Also, enjoy Seoul Trail section 5 as it meanders around the base of Gwanaksan!
STAY & EAT
Oh, the food you can eat at Gwanaksan! There are frequently vendors straight-up on the mountain. There are all kinds of restaurants at the foot of the mountain. Gwanaksan is a feast.
Similarly, accommodation options are essentially infinite. Kent and I have stayed several times in the Sadang area on the mountain’s northern slopes. Motels are cheap and abundant – but be aware that you can’t check in until evening or you’ll be charged extra. Other options are a short subway ride away in other parts of the city.
OTHER NOTES
Dominating the southern skyline of Seoul at a height of 629 meters, Gwanaksan is rightly represented on both of the 100 summit lists in South Korea. View the Korea Forest Service listing here, and the Black Yak summary here.
I visited Gwanaksan during my first year in Korea in 2011. This particular visit was an 8.5 kilometer point-to-point hike with Kent and our friend Sandra in February 2018. Gwanaksan was the last peak on our Lunar New Year ‘new mountains’ expedition during which we also explored Cheontaesan, the other Gayasan in Chungnam, Gwangdeoksan, Oseosan and Yongbongsan.
Of course, there’s way more mountains to explore and you know where: the 120 summits main page!
Go have fun on Gwanaksan, again and again!