Continuing meant plunging back into the forest and following the undulating ridge through the thick foliage for a little while longer. Our clothes were soaked through with sweat, the air was thick with humidity, and yet the dew on the plants felt cooling in its moisture. A cloud swung in low overhead and blotted out the surrounding views. In this damp swirl of fog, we reached the peak of Gubongsan (구봉산).
Two other hikers soon joined us on Gubongsan’s Cheonwangbong summit, and we had a bit of a chat. We explained that we’d just come from Unjangsan, and they said they’d been there the previous day. Guess we weren’t the only ones on a 100 summits mission!
Kent had a bit of a sit on one of the benches scattered around Gubongsan’s cozy summit area, while I hopped around enthusing about what had transpired so far and what was about to. We soon carried on, eager to meet the other eight peaks of the mountain before we ran out of either time (our assigned workout was five hours) or fluids (we were already almost out – but our electrolyte mix had clearly worked some kind of magic on me).
It was very slow going down Gubongsan. At first, there were steep staircases that dropped down like ladders. Then we encountered tight switchbacks lined on either side by rope railings – which were absolutely necessary! Gubongsan’s remaining eight peaks were far below, but we eventually climbed down and began the final, exciting segment of our journey over these jagged little peaks.
Gubongsan’s peaks seven and eight were rocky with incredible 360 degree views. On peak number number six we did a little sit to take it all in.
Peaks four and five were linked by one of Korea’s incredible cloud bridges over an absolutely plunging chasm. Hikers were sitting right on the summit stele on peak number five, but on peak number four, we were welcomed into a little gazebo with jaw-dropping views of all of the Gubongsan summits we’d climbed so far.
Just before peak three we met even more friends, who insisted we take some nectarines to eat on the go. Peak two was covered in beautiful little stone wish towers, giving it a really special ambiance.
To our delight, peak number one was accessible via a short side trail. This peak had a nice wooden observation platform with a lovely view of the valley (still far below!), and a beautiful tree growing right above the stele.
However, now out of water and with the temperature rising, we couldn’t stay long. We ran down as quickly as we could into Gubongsan’s forest. It was steep at first, but soon speed-able, and we emerged all too suddenly into a paved parking lot. Remarkably, we were right on target, time-wise, for the day’s workout. We stopped running and descended on the rustic little restaurant for one of those meals that tastes like the best one you’ve ever had. We absolutely smashed our food and tossed back cup after cup of cool water.
But our adventure was actually not over yet. From the restaurant’s owner, we learned that the bus was not coming by until much, much later in the day. He offered us instead the number for a local taxi driver. We tried and failed to reach him, and then found out he was on holiday. It was 1 o’clock in the afternoon, and we had a three hour drive ahead of us and a goal of returning this rental car on time. We were rapidly running out of options.
As I frantically started searching distant taxi companies, a kind gentlemen who’d been eating beside us (and must have been gathering our plight), reached out to offer us a ride. We declined initially, but he insisted. Little did he and his wife know what they were in for!
Not only were we parked a half hour’s drive away from Gubongsan, the nearest landmark was a closed restaurant that didn’t show up on the map. Without a common language, we struggled to communicate to our newest friends that we simply knew the way. They were continually surprised by just how far we were going, and we were cringing in the backseat; sweating up the upholstery and feeling awful. But drive us they did, and we offered them some cash and energy bars in exchange for saving they day.
We hopped in our rental car (still there, thanks no doubt to mamma dog!) and hit the road home immediately. It’s always an adventure, but our Unjangsan and Gubongsan run especially so!
KNOW AND GO! GUBONGSAN
TRANSPORTATION
Jeonju, capital of the North Jeolla province, is the closest large urban center to Gubongsan – and its neighbor Unjangsan. But that doesn’t mean much, because if you want direct access to Gubongsan, you’ll need to go to the scenic small town of Jinan first (sound familiar? Most routes to Unjangsan also start from Jinan – and so does the trail to Maisan Provincial Park!).
From Jinan, catch the bus bound for Naecheosa and sit tight for an hour. Get out at the Gubongsan rest area on highway 725. There’s one more trailhead further along the highway, but this is your best bet (as described below).
You can also drive to Gubongsan. This is not a bad option if you want to focus on Gubongsan alone, but nearby Unjangsan is another 100 summits mountain – and enjoying both is highly recommendable! Have a plan in place if you’re going a point-to-point, whether or not you have your own wheels.
HIKE & RUN
As promised by its name, Gubongsan does indeed have nine peaks! And they are very exciting peaks too. Numbers 1-8 are the rockiest and most thrilling, but Cheonhwangbong is a must visit as the highest!
There are really two decisions that you face for your Gubongsan hike/run.
- Will you venture on to Unjangsan (or from Unjangsan on to Gubongsan)? I highly, highly recommend that you do, because the long ridge in between is also excellent! Just make sure you have options for getting back to your starting point.
- If you’re focusing on Gubongsan exclusively, in what order will you climb the peaks? There are clear pros to both approaches. If you start with the summit of Gubongsan, you can access the trailhead directly across from a parking lot, shop and bus stop. You can push hard to the top, then linger on your way down the other peaks in descending order. If you start with peak #1 and go up that route, head slightly north on highway 725 to find the trailhead. Start early enough, and you might have a peak or two to yourself!
The very shortest access to Gubongsan is via a 1.5 kilometer trail starting at Gubong reservoir. But I’d encourage you to go long here rather than short!
Whatever you do, be sure to enjoy every single one of Gubongsan’s peaks, plus all the crazy bridges and welcoming gazebos!
STAY & EAT
As mentioned previously, there are camping options and a limited number of rooms for rent in Unjangsan Natural Recreation Forest nearby. Additional options can be found on the Jucheon/Juyang side of Gubongsan. There are no accommodation options super close to Gubongsan, but I recommend Jinan for its nice location. Jeonju is a little far if you’re headed straight for this mountain.
There is, however, food in the area! Look no further than the Gubongsan rest area near the trailheads. Jinan also has a small town’s selection of options for you.
We stayed in Jinan before our adventure, and drove home afterwards (after a minor miracle that got us back to the car that we abandoned on Piam Mokjae pass!). We ate a wonderful meal of deokdeokgui and bibimbap below Gubongsan. And we packed enough snacks for a far longer run than the one we did, because you never know when you’ll need it to repay a stranger!
OTHER NOTES
Gubongsan’s Cheonhwangbong is 1002 meters – impressive to be sure, but by no means the most impressive thing about this mountain. There are eight more rugged peaks for you to explore! Gubongsan captured the attention of the good folks at Black Yak, making it onto their 100 summits list here.
In July 2018, Kent and I ran a happy 15 kilometers taking in both Gubongsan and Unjangsan. Consider climbing Unjangsan too!
There are so many more adventures back on the 120 summits main page!
Have a blast on thrilling Gubongsan – we certainly did!
