Finally, back to Gariwangsan (가리왕산), and for real this time! The morning began at home with some quick bowls of cereal before hopping on the first bus of the day to Sokcho. There we picked up our rental car and some snacks.
Finally we were on the road to Gariwangsan! We drove the mountainous way over to Jeongseon, passing the trailhead that we’d tried back in April. This time, we drove all the way round and parked in the recreational forest parking lot, hoping to do a longer loop from this side.
I’d found several blogs about climbing this mountain, but none were clear about what all the options were, so we needed to find a map in person. I changed, we paid for parking, got a mini paper map of Gariwangsan and set off. It was around noon and we seldom start so late!
Because it was late in the day, it was blazingly hot: a temperature of 35 degrees Celsius, full summer sun, high humidity, the whole 9 yards. I was a little worried for Kent, who much prefers cooler weather. But we’d be going up – way up!
We began with a climb of over 1000m. We ran briefly where it was mainly flat, but it did not take long for the real climbing to begin. There were only a few other hikers out braving the hot day along with us! Gariwangsan’s forest grew denser around us as we climbed.
We were mostly in shade below Gariwangsan’s high ridge, but it wasn’t exactly cool. In fact, it was like my eye sockets became reservoirs for the sweat and sunscreen running down my face. My eyes were burning so badly that I had to stop multiple times to scrape at them with my soaked, salty t-shirt.
Around half-way up, we crossed a forest road and noted it, thinking we could use it to add some running to our run on the way down. We put our heads down and continued to climb hard the rest of the way up Gariwangsan, motivated by the thought of fine views and a fresh breeze.
When we eventually reached the ridge, after several false alarms, it was completely different! It was more brush than forest. Gariwangsan’s plant life had grown dense over the trail to the point where we needed to push through it, but all of the individual plants were short, and we were officially out of the shade.
It was a short distance on to the peak, which was actually ‘crowded’ with half a dozen people. We were surprised to see so many folks out and about in the heat of the day, but happy that the peak was getting some love. Plus, there was more than enough space for everyone!
The peak of Gariwangsan is an open, grassy space. There were about a hundred dragonflies flying low overhead. We checked out the twin steles and huge rock altar. All the friendly strangers soon departed, heading in the direction we’d just come from. Now alone at the summit, we lingered still further. Kent was stoked because Gariwangsan is part of the Baekdudaegan. I was stoked because I love all the mountains!
Eventually we carried on down the ridge. The plant life remained dense. We ran a little in the open, because the ridge itself was nearly flat, but then soon found ourselves swimming through the brush again.
Next stop: Jungbong – kind of a secret summit with a few stone towers but no official stele.
We thought about going on to one more peak, but we glimpsed it from the ridge and it seemed a little sad: completely deforested to the left, thanks to a ski slope. Plus, we weren’t sure if there would be a trail down to our side from there. So, we turned right and began to descend Gariwangsan. There were a few steep sections, but for the most part, it was wonderful running through the quiet forest. There were a few birdcalls and a strange, sweet smell.
After a while, we found Gariwangsan’s forest road again, and turned right to make a loop. Initially, my impression was that it wasn’t terribly overgrown for a road that didn’t seem like it was used often. But then I got really scraped up on both legs from prickly plants and my opinion changed somewhat! However, we were really lucky because we had two, very close deer encounters! And the running along the road felt good. We were able to pick up the pace, yet it was still wild and lonely and scenic.
The forest road experience was also pretty dynamic. It was cool in the lengthening shadows of Gariwangsan’s ridge, and we felt an occasional breeze. But it was still bakingly hot under the open sun. We finished our liquids on the road, and so were motivated to dash the final few kilometers back down the trail. There we met all the hikers we’d seen on top. After a short jaunt down the road to check out an ‘ice cave’, we stretched while slamming back two cold pocaris from the nearby store.
On the winding road toward home on the other side of Gariwangsan, we stopped to dip our feet in the Joyanggang below an amazing 119m waterfall! It was beautiful and relaxing and perfect. I felt like the rapidly rushing water was massaging my feet. We lingered on river rocks, agreeing that this was exactly why renting a car is so great: that freedom to stop anywhere on a whim.
Hungry after this afternoon of adventures, we decided to revisit our favorite mountain veggie village in Odaesan, even going back to the very same restaurant we visited with Jaeseung and Em during our Olympics adventure! We showed the grandma in charge a picture and she seemed pretty delighted. Then we drove up to Jingogae at 940m and watched the light fade from the sky. Eventually we drove back downhill and slept at Motel California (really).
KNOW AND GO! GARIWANGSAN
TRANSPORTATION
So, Gariwangsan is a little remote. It’s deep in the wonderful wilds of Gangwondo. Thus, it requires a bit of a commitment to get to – but will reward you handsomely if you make it. The closest town is Jeongseon, which has both bus and train access. From the bus terminal, you can take the local Huidong bus to reach Gariwangsan Natural Recreation Forest in just under 40 minutes.
You can also access Gariwangsan from Pyeongchang (of 2018 Winter Olympics fame!), but it will require two buses and a transfer. Another option is to take an intercity bus from Jinbu (gateway to Odaesan) down highway 59 to access trailheads on the east side. Tell the driver where you want to get out.
If doing the latter (or driving yourself), save time for a post-hike stop at Baekseok falls!
HIKE & RUN
It is strictly necessary that you hike or run on Gariwangsan in the correct season. We tried to climb the mountain in April, but met with some very literal red tape at the trailhead. Be aware of fire closures in fall and snowmelt closures in spring.
When it comes to trails, you are in for a treat! It’s not that there are oodles of options, though there are a decent number of ways up and down the mountain. I think the best part is the very long, high and runnable ridge that connects several summits on Gariwangsan’s spine. Plan to stay awhile for this one!
STAY & EAT
We did not stay in the immediate area, but you certainly could. The Gariwangsan Natural Recreation Forest (and the road in to it) is loaded with camping options. There are also some pensions in the valleys surrounding the mountain, but no motels for miles.
There aren’t really any restaurants in this area (at least, none that we found). But there is a useful market in the recreation forest. As usual, it’s always smart to pack provisions and just keep your eye peeled for spontaneous mountain vegetable cuisine options! Or, make note of your favorites and return to them obsessively!
OTHER NOTES
Gariwangsan is one of the tallest mountains in South Korea at 1561 meters! I think it’s number 13 on the height list, but I’m not sure. However, I am sure that it deserves to be on both 100 mountain lists, and indeed it is. Find it on the Korea Forest Service list here and the Black Yak list here.
Our July 2018 run was just under 20 kilometers – and it was awesome!
Head back to the 120 summits main page for even more awesome.
Happy trails on gorgeous Gariwangsan!