Gamaksan (Paju) – (감악산(파주)) is a very exciting and interesting peak in northern Gyeonggido. It has a fascinating history, and has a way of keeping a hike exciting with surprises around every corner. There’s really no other mountain like this in South Korea.
We ran a 50k the previous day, but that did not stop us from exploring Gamaksan (Paju)! I’m always happy to be out and about around dawn, especially when we’re meeting a new mountain!
And this mountain made an impression on us immediately. Gamaksan (Paju) is a very dramatic, prominent rocky peak rising above the Gyeonggido landscape. It seemed like it was making every one of it’s 675 meters count!
Distracted by these exciting views, we wound up climbing up a different way than we’d planned. We rose through a valley to emerge on top, right where some military trenches had been dug!
The surprises did not stop coming. A clearing in the forest would reveal rocky cliffs with dramatic views. Several towers appeared through the trees, only to disappear in mist. Or we’d round a corner to discover a secret Mary statue that seemed transported from another place and time.
At the summit of Gamaksan (Paju) was a mysterious, ancient-looking stele contrasting with the modern radio antenna and military fencing. Also, there was a huge helipad and some plaques containing information about the Korean war. This peak seemed both useful and sacred – definitely the most unusual summit we’d visited so far!
Continuing on our run, we stopped to visit two more peaks on Gamaksan (Paju)’s rocky ridge. Then we slowly descended to temple on a thin trail through more forest.
We paused at the temple, looking back up at the mountain we’d just explored. Although it was a chilly day, there was pretty evidence of spring in little blooms and thawed creeks.
Beyond the temple, we were surprised to encounter a crazy suspension bridge! It was one of the longest – and highest – that we’ve seen in Korea, and it was really thrilling to cross.
I was actually slightly disappointed that on the other side of the bridge, there was a bus departing immediately. We’d had such a great time on Gamaksan (Paju) that I wasn’t quite ready to say goodbye. Ultimately it was the right decision though, as we were able to crush a post-run feast right away in Uijeongbu before being homeward bound.
KNOW AND GO! GAMAKSAN (PAJU)
TRANSPORTATION
Despite its location in northern Gyeonggido, Gamaksan (Paju) is pretty easy to access. But do not make the mistake of going to Paju expecting to find Gamaksan: the mountain is nowhere near the city! Instead, it’s probably better to head straight north of Seoul to Dongducheon (of Korea 50k fame!).
I think the best public transit option to Gamaksan (Paju) consists of the following: take line 1 (dark blue) all the way up to Dongducheon Jungang station. A five minute walk away from exit 1 is the bus stop where you can catch the 17B, which will take you directly to Hwabang village. This little village offers access to two trailheads for Gamaksan!
An alternate route (or return route) might involve taking the Gyeongui (aqua) line to its end point at Munsan station. This is the closest you can get to North Korea on the Seoul subway line! From there, a few buses will take you to the Seolma village side of Gamaksan (Paju). Try the 7701 for a direct ride of about an hour, or switch from the 92 to the 25-1 in Gueup village.
Of course, you could also drive. But then you’d be limited to doing an out-and-back route or a loop. Plus, the metro areas are where Korea’s public transit system really shines. So I’d recommend saving the car rental for a more remote peak on another weekend. That said, Kent and I did skip one of the aforementioned bus routes in favor of a relax-y taxi. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: hurry to the mountain, then take your time after.
HIKE & RUN
Gamaksan (Paju) has a true spider’s web of trails. There’s hardly a ridge or valley left unexplored! You could start up Gamaksan from any side, and finish on any other – or make all kinds of fun loops!
We took full advantage of this by running a point-to-point route for our Gamaksan adventure! I’d like to highly recommend you do some version of the same. Starting in Hwabang village, we ran 8k up and over the mountain to Seolma village. But that is by no means the only option: I’d encourage you to explore a map and then explore this mountain!
STAY & EAT
It might not be everyone’s cup of tea, as it can be a little rough around the edges, but I love Dongducheon! I’ve made many happy memories there. Plus, it’s the closest urban setting to Gamaksan (Paju) – complete with motels and meal options. The meal options include Korean, American and a variety of other ethnic cuisines. So if you’re not spoiled for choice by food like this in Seoul, it can be a real treat!
OTHER NOTES
Gamaksan (Paju) is a very exciting mountain, and it has captured the attention of the people for a long time. So it seems only right that this mountain is on both the Korea Forest Service list here and the Black Yak list here! Gamaksan is not well known for its height (a medium 675 meters): its this mountain’s long and storied history that make it an enticing hiking destination.
In April 2018, Kent and I had a great run of around 8 kilometers on Gamaksan (Paju)! We were a little tired from our exertions on Soyosan and the Korea50k course the previous day, but we were so happy that we went to Gamaksan!
What’s next? May I suggest a return to the 120 summits main page to find your next mountain destination?
Here’s to a great Gamaksan (Paju) adventure!