Our very first Korean road trip started with a bang. That’s because it started with Dutasan (두타산).
Our journey there was not straightforward, as we nearly drove ourselves to the wrong mountain, not once but twice! Turns out there’s also a Dutasan in North Chungcheong province, and two in Gangwondo! Properly oriented at last, we set out to explore this great peak on the backbone of Korea.
Our adventure began in a paid parking lot of the fancy Dutasan tourist village. There was a heated bathroom and several markets in which we added to our stash of drinks and snacks. Then we were ready to go!
Heading off at a jog, we were soon in a very deep and dramatic valley. Mureung Valley is like a canyon, complete with towering cliffs on either side. I think that’s pretty rare in the geography here, as the only similar example I could call to mind was in Juwangsan National Park. But Dutasan might be on another scale!
After a little valley running, we decided to veer off and up a ridge on the first side trail we encountered. This turned out to be a very exciting climb featuring nice rocks, ice waterfalls and expansive views across the canyon to a high hermitage.
We tread across a high, dry plateau, climbed again and ultimately reached a steep and snowy ridge. We were the first people to leave footprints on this trail after a recent snowfall.
However, wild winds that we’d been protected from only minutes below blew in a truly bitter cold. I wasn’t properly prepared for arctic conditions like these, which resulted in several painful effects on my face and in the extremities. Some suffering ensued, and the situation began to feel a little dire as time was drawn out.
However, I couldn’t help but be delighted by reaching the high Baekdudaegan summit! Dutasan’s wide-open peak offers sweeping views (a tad obscured by incoming, snow-dusting cloud for us) and is topped by a pair of steles rather than the usual one.
A few photographs later, my hands were numb to the point of uselessness and my feet were not far behind. There were several more summits on the Dutasan’s long, semi-circular ridge that we’d been set to explore. But worsening winter conditions dictated a descent back the way we came: at least we could follow our own footsteps!
As we began to descend, I realized we hadn’t seen another soul on top or on the ridge – only in the valley! Were we the only people to climb to the peak on this day? And was that brave, or foolhardy?
As we descended into the forest and out of the gale, I was able to blow some feeling back into my hands and stamp my feet back into usefulness. Thank goodness for crampons and poles and not getting frostbite today! But far from being disappointed about not going as far as we wanted to, we were stoked that we’d done something a little daring – and been rewarded with many beautiful sights. What a unique Dutasan experience we had!
KNOW AND GO! DUTASAN
TRANSPORTATION
Be aware of the fact that not only are there multiple mountains named Dutasan on the Korean peninsula, there’s two so named in southern Gangwondo! So be sure you’re setting your sights on the right one. Our Dutasan is not in fact, the tallest mountain of this name! But the mountain standing tall above Dutasan Natural Recreation Forest is actually Bakjisan, so don’t go there.
Just inland of Donghae on Korea’s east coast, this Dutasan is remote and takes a little effort to get to.
First, you’ll need to make your way to the southeastern edge of Gangwon province. Although there are rail links to both Donghae and Samcheok further on, be aware that only slow trains ply the coast. You’ll need to transfer at Gangneung if you’re coming from Seoul or points west. If you’re coming from Busan or elsewhere on the coast, a bus is going to be a better option for you.
From Donghae bus terminal, bus number 111 goes directly to Dutasan and takes about 75 minutes to do so. Coming from Samcheok, you can transfer to this same bus in Donghae.
Alternatively, it’s a 13 kilometer, 20 minute drive, so you might want to simply hail a cab – or drive your own wheels there.
HIKE & RUN
Dutasan is massive. If you’re looking for something epic, you have definitely found it. If you want to go far – and I mean really far – here’s where you can start or end or pause on that journey. That’s because Dutasan is on the Baekdudaegan – the mountainous spine that divides the watersheds of North and South Korea into eastern and western parts. So, the potential here is huge!
If you’re looking to go big but maybe not quite that big, Dutasan is still a very good bet. Including Dutasan’s peak, there are several summits in the area of over 1000 meters. This is one of those mountain amphitheaters that just can’t be missed!
Most hikers start in the Mureung valley area on the east side of the mountain. Here you have multiple options ranging from a long amble up the valley to a steep climb up onto a ridge – and all trails eventually lead to the peak.
STAY & EAT
Stay and eat in Donghae, or anywhere nearby on Korea’s beautiful east coast! Donghae and Samcheok are proper cities where you can stock up on supplies or even rent a car. You can also sleep there, but there’s other options along the sea that might be even better. Driving north on highway 7, simply select a motel or minbak that appeals to you, and sleep right on the beach!
To be fair, the sea is a little far from this particular summit. If you’re doing public transit to and from this mountain, you might appreciate staying a little closer to it! Dutasan does have a campground and a few rooms for rent at its base. Near the entrance to Mureung valley there are also a handful of restaurants, but I particularly appreciated the convenience stores right at the trailheads!
OTHER NOTES
Dutasan is 1353 meters tall, which is so awesome that both the Korea Forest Service and Black Yak took note. Find notes from the former here and from the latter here.
Dutasan was one of the very first mountains we visited on our 120 summits mission (then just 100 summits)! Our exploration was an icy but excellent 13 kilometers that involved running, hiking and (just a little) snowy sliding.
Are you just getting started on Korea’s mountains? Check out the 120 summits main page for more mission-able peaks! Or, can I interest you in our Hambaeksan sunset from the same cold winter’s day?
Enjoy the heights of Dutasan!