As we began to hike through the forest, we noticed tiny glints of swirling silver. This was a miniature snow storm, just for us! We were alone on the slopes of Dongaksan (동악산), and it was beautiful.
In December 2018, it was back to our 120 summits mission after a short break. It was a crazy time to go peak bagging: I had just tried to run a big race with bronchitis, a contract dispute had made our future in Korea rather uncertain, and the weather was both bitterly cold and smoggy. Stressed-out and sleep-deprived, I made many mistakes before we even hit the road – including nearly forgetting our GPS watch! But I really wanted to work on our mission, and doing so gave me the sense of purpose I always struggle with following an event.
So, off we went again! Starting with Dongaksan, we had a six mountain weekend planned!
We’d initially worried about winter trail closures and/or the trails being hard to find, but luckily that was not the case at all on Dongaksan! There was a beautiful little temple at the start that set the tone for what was to come.
The trail progressed from a gentle grade to a series of wooden steps, complete with viewpoints where we watched the light snow swirl over the treetops. It was easy going: just a little slippery in some spots.
Then the summit ridge was more jagged and exciting than the relaxed climb had led us to expect! A power tower beckoned from beyond the peak and the sun shone weakly through the clouds.
The summit was in a little clearing, marked by a plaque embedded in a rocky cairn. Kent explored towards the antenna while I did my usual lurking around the peak. But we couldn’t linger for long.
We took pictures until our phone’s battery died. I began to feel a familiar ache in my hands and had to rub them together. After an initial slippery patch, we were able to descend quickly and that helped me to warm up. Plus, we could no longer take pictures, so we could focus on our hustle.
And hustling felt pretty good! On our Dongaksan adventure, I was conducting some tests. One was a check-in with my body post-race and post-illness. The other was a test of some new cold weather gear Kent had gotten us specifically for mountain missions. Both body and gear seemed to perform excellently! I was especially pleased with my brand new thick socks. And I kept my run to an easy jog, so as not to activate my coughing reflex.
As we made our way down Dongaksan, the snow stopped falling and the wind ceased. Where we weren’t in the mountain’s shadow, I felt the sun’s warmth on my dark-colored clothes. We hopped in the car on a post-run high, smashed some snacks and set off to our next mountain!
KNOW AND GO! DONGAKSAN
TRANSPORTATION
Gokseong, the town at the base of Dongaksan, is far from Seoul but easily accessible. Gokseong has both a bus terminal and a KTX station.
Once you’re in Gokseong, you have a few options for getting to the trailheads. The easiest is to walk: Gokseong is a small town, and there are many places where a road connects directly to a trail. Just follow the Hakseong stream or have a quick look at a map to find other locations.
Yes, alternatively you can take a car. And of course, we did. Coming from remote Gangwondo, even the KTX couldn’t save us time! Plus, we were, as often, on a multi-mountain mission!
HIKE & RUN
There are a number of trails on Dongaksan, and the ridge hosts several additional peaks as well. Keep your eyes on the east for great views of nearby Jirisan National Park!
Alas, we only had time for a quickie: we were out and back to the peak in about 100 minutes. But there’s more to explore! If you have time, I think it would be a lot of fun to visit some of Dongaksan’s other peaks! The ridge is long, runnable yet rugged.
STAY & EAT
Staying and eating is a cinch for your Dongaksan adventure. Thanks to the mountain’s location just west of Gokseong, you have options right at the foot of the mountain. That’s what we did, and I’d say things went pretty well.
However, be aware that Gokseong is a very small town. There’s one motel, and it is showing its age. The place isn’t really set up for tourists. If you need more options, Namwon is located to the north. I’ve also stayed here before and can vouch for it as not only convenient, but pretty: check out the riverside and pretty fortress wall!
For camping, head south of Gokseong on highway 60 and take your second right. Or just follow the signs!
OTHER NOTES
Dongaksan is a 735 meter peak in South Jeolla province. It’s excellence was noted by the team at Black Yak. Access Dongaksan’s 100 summits listing here!
We ran a chilly but scenic 5k on the slopes of Dongaksan in December 2018.
On the same (very busy day), we also climbed Geumsan and Muhaksan. Feel free to explore more of the 120 special summits of South Korea over here!
Have a lovely day out on Dongaksan!