We got a nice early start, thanks in part to the season of shortened days and elongated nights. It was still dark when we arrived, and morning twilight came slowly to the far side of the ridge. We had no foreknowledge of Dalmasan (달마산), but it was apparent from its dark and rugged bulk that we were in for an exciting treat!
Dalmasan might properly be called Dharmasan, a challenging distinction to make in Hangul. But given its awe-inspiringly jagged ridge and amazing summit views, it would not surprise me if this mountain was considered especially sacred. It could also be the very special temple at the base that gave me this impression!
We ran, very briefly, on a dirt trail. But the soil quickly gave way to rock, and the rock became increasingly vertical! We emerged from a fun forest of tall birch trees and short thousand-meter plants to face a rocky, exposed scramble.
This dramatic route deposited us right at the peak, with a little stele and huge stone cairn. We could suddenly see the sea, and the views down the ridge in both directions were breathtaking! I quickly ranked Dalmasan as a very exciting little mountain indeed!
From our perch on the peak, Kent and I watched the sun rise in some moody mist. As it rose, it gilded the rocks we were facing and illuminated more of the splendid scene.
We decided to venture a little further on Dalmasan’s rugged ridge. On this fun mini expedition, we encountered lots of scrambles and steps and sweet views. Descent to the temple was via another route. At the bottom, we looked back in awe at the sheer rock cliffs that still towered higher than the sun.
It felt like we were the only people on the planet. Not even the temple was stirring!
We completed our climb feeling delighted to have spent this winter morning on Dalmasan.
KNOW AND GO! DALMASAN
TRANSPORTATION
…we had a bit of a fancy February. Yes, we rented a car. Again. But we used it to arrive on time to a friend’s wedding in our old hometown of Suncheon (which is about as far as can be from our new hometown Inje!) plus do our mountain missions, so it was a very efficient trip!
However, driving is definitely not the only option. To get to Dalmasan on public transit, you first need to get to Seojeong village. You could take a 90 minute bus journey there on the Haenam-Eoran bus. If you’re coming from afar, Haenam is a pretty sensible hub.
But Wando, despite being an island, is technically closer, so an alternative option would be to make your way from there to Dalmasan. I just can’t quite think how this would be convenient if you’re coming from anywhere on the mainland. However, it’s worth mentioning because you can take intercity buses to the trailhead from there, by way of Wolsong village just north of the mountain.
I know I said this already about Deokryeongsan (which we climbed after Dalmasan!), but this mountain is truly at the rugged tip of the peninsula – especially coming from Gangwondo!
Lots of other awesome mountains are close at hand too, like Duryunsan and Wolchulsan!
HIKE & RUN
Interestingly, access from the east of Dalmasan is extremely limited! The main trailhead is on the west side, right below the summit, and there’s only a few other routes up. Even more interesting is that this remote mountain features a dullegil: a hiking course that wraps around the mountain on its lower slopes. This collection of encircling trails are the only way you can access some of the routes up and down the mountain!
The hike to Dalmasan’s peak on the main trail from Mihwangsa is extremely short: it’s only one kilometer! Do note that a bunch of these meters are literally straight up. Measure not this mountain in meters but rather in thrills!
Head north on the ridge for two and a half more kilometers of ultra-rugged fun, or go south to visit Dalmasan’s southerly neighbors. There’s a whole lot more fun ridge to explore here! This is an extremely rugged little mountain, so be forewarned: the distances are short but the trails are slow and challenging! Consider exploring the dullegil for a faster or more relaxing experience.
Duryunsan Provincial Park is just out of official reach. While the aforementioned ridge continues all the way from Dalmasan to Deokyreongsan, there are no official trails linking to the provincial park. It can be done, but would require walking on the road and possibly bushwacking, neither of which are best practices for safety. Beyond Duryunsan is Deokryeongsan, also on this very same ridge!
STAY & EAT
Although this is remote country, it’s also coastal – which means you’re in luck when it comes to motels. We had a pleasant experience with a friendly gentleman and an older establishment on the western side of the mountain, and there’s several motels and campsites at the turn of highway 77 in the far south.
Eating options along the coast are always a little less optimal for plant-based people, which is why I always come prepared! We brought snacks all the way from Suncheon (and some from Inje too I suppose!).
OTHER NOTES
At 489 meters, Dalmasan might not seem like much of a mountain. But that killer rocky ridge! And the sweeping ocean views! Dalmasan is definitely worthy of its listing on the Black Yak 100 summits list, available here.
We did a teeny tiny run of just over three kilometers on a February morning in 2018. I say ran, but actually the large majority of this outing was spent clinging to rocks and ropes. In the afternoon, we also scrambled our way up Deokryeongsan!
Hike back to the 120 summits main page for other adventurous options.
Have a blast on beautiful and exciting Dalmasan – and don’t forget to spend some time at the temple, too!