Cheonseongsan (천성산)

This adventure began at a beautiful temple in the blue light of dawn. The scenery was sublime: there was even a waterfall! It was a place to stop and meditate, not run away from! But our mission, in the dark shape of Cheonseongsan (천성산) above, beckoned us to begin – so we started to climb.

The thin, silvery stream of a waterfall pours down from a high cliff above a small, well-lit temple building in the early hours before dawn. This beautiful scene is set just below Cheonseongsan.
Hongryeongsa at night: a beautiful scene

Multiple trails made for a bit of a confused start, especially in the dark! Even so, we were soon making our way up Cheonseongsan on a comfortable earthen ridge on a trail bordered by pines.

A beautiful, golden dawn on the grassy summit slopes of Cheonseongsan.

The sun rose over the golden grasses that blanket the slopes of Cheonseongsan, and we emerged from the forest just in time to see the very first rays. The warm golden glow belied the season: the long grass seemed ready for harvest, despite the fact that spring was only just beginning.

A tall stand of grass catches the light in a way the make the stems appear as liquid gold. Beyond, rugged hillsides dominate the landscape and divide the terrestrial and aerial realms.
A golden spring morning

We enjoyed the wide open spaces of the ascent, taking in views of the valley below and looking out over the protected swampland that this mountain is famous for. As we approached Wonhyobong, we ran through a very strange section of trail…

A photograph of a trail near Cheonseongsan's summit: there are green wire fences to either side of a double-width trail. The trail is covered with deep snow, and the fences are topped by coils of razor wire.
Surprising route to the top!

But this protected corridor was short, and we were soon at the summit. On the rolling grasslands on top of Cheonseongsan, there were many campers. Some were still sleeping, some were eating their breakfasts and still others were already starting to descend!

A portrait of Kent, using poles to trek across the expansive, sandy summit of Cheonseongsan. There's a red tent and a wooden summit stele in the background behind him.

Terrific air quality made for great, long-distance views, and we lingered in the warm rays of the sun.

A portrait of the author with her arms spread wide. She's alongside the Cheonseongsan summit stele and views of a mist-filled valley and distant ridges above it.

Moving along, we opted to head to 2-bong, breaking some snowy trail! This area is a little less densely signposted and with the fresh snow, it was somewhat challenging to find the way. Needless to say, we got a little lost – but then we found the way!

The summit stele for Birobong, the second summit of Cheonseongsan, pokes up into the sky from a rocky summit. The distance between is filled with the branching patterns of leafless deciduous trees.
Spot the summit!

To me, it was well worth it: I was super happy to be visiting a peak that hadn’t yet seen any visitors yet that day! To reach Birobong, we climbed onto another great ridge and then the dramatic, rocky peak appeared.

In this peak portrait, the author stands with her back to the camera, facing the summit stele for Birobong or Cheonseongsan 2-bong. She's tracing the Hangul inscription in the stone, perched on a rocky precipice.
The second summit!
One of the classic Kent and Carrie summit selfies: he's in the front, grinning into the camera. She's in the back, leaning over the summit stele.

When we eventually had to descend, I was happy that the fun was not over: we were soon enjoying a lovely stream.

The author is captured mid-leap as she navigates from boulder to boulder across an icy mountain stream.
Lil’ hops.

At the foot of Cheonseongsan we waited for a taxi that never came, but all was not lost. We gained extra time to stretch and check out another captivating temple.

The author walks quietly through the Naewonsa temple grounds in this candid image.
Naewonsa is nice.

Then we got a bonus 5k run in, heading down a mountain road. Finally, we found a bus that would take us to a train that would take us to the bus that would ultimately get us home!

KNOW AND GO! CHEONSEONGSAN

TRANSPORTATION

Busan friends, you’re in luck! This one is closer to you than it is to the capital. Cheonseongsan is in the southeast corner of the peninsula. The nearest city is Yangsan.

Head to the western suburbs of Yangsan to access one of many mountain trails. From Yangsan subway station or the bus terminal, you can take a 30 minute ride on bus 32.

If you’re coming from Busan and you’re up for a longer day on the trails, there’s also trail access from just north of Nopo subway station! Hoof it or hop on bus 11 (the most seamless connection is actually from Beomeosa station).

Alternatively, there’s a KTX station in Ulsan, which is just north of this mountain. That’s another option if you’re coming from Seoul or thereabouts – but from Ulsan you’ll need either an hour on public buses (try the 304 + 40 combo) or a significant taxi fare.

HIKE & RUN

I’m too excited not to start with this: you can link Cheonseongsan to Geumjeongsan! This knowledge honestly makes me want to return to Busan: there’s some real long runs available here, with great connections to the subway system!

There’s also a wealth of options on Cheonseongsan itself. From the peak, trails spiderweb off in all directions. Which way will you go?

A photograph of the trail network on Cheonseongsan. The trails are depicted in red, yellow and blue against the green background of the mountain.
Cheonseongsan trail map

The quickest way to the summit is from the west side, just off the number one highway. There’s a little village there called Soto, which is a relatively short bus or taxi ride from Yangsan. The longest ways begin at either terminus of the Busan subway system: Yangsan or Nopo stations are both close to Cheonseongsan trailheads!

STAY & EAT

You can stay quite happily in Yangsan. This is something I know from several bike trip experiences, as well as this mountain mission! For some reason, Yangsan has a good selection of cheap but nice motels – many of which are (or at least were, in 2018) brand new.

As usual, I didn’t delve into any of the food. You definitely can eat in Yangsan, and I’m sure there are lots of options. But if you’re a mountain cuisine princess (that’s me!), the scene is not as good for you.

Of course, if you live in or are spending time in Busan, this makes a great day trip!

OTHER NOTES

Cheonseongsan is a beloved mountain, standing 992 meters tall over the Nakdonggang plains. Cheonseongsan is represented on both of Korea’s 100 famous summits lists: see the Korea Forest Service listing here and the Black Yak 100 one here!

Kent and I ran a 13 kilometer point-to-point route on this lovely mountain, taking in both of its peaks in March 2018!

On the 120 summits main page, you’ll find still more mountains – in Gyeongsangdo and beyond!

A landscape photo featuring golden grass growing around a rocky outcropping in the foreground, and rugged, rolling hills separated by misty valleys in the distance.
Last look at some spectacular Cheonseong scenery!

Happy trails to you, my friend! Go long – in kilometers earned or peaceful hours enjoyed.


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