This perfect little mountain is highly recommendable! It reminded me in some ways of Deoksan Provincial Park: a secret, understated forest with a relatively low peak, way out in a remote area of Korea. But Bulgapsan (불갑산) was absolutely splendid, and we were so happy to be there, right from the moment we arrived.
We parked in a huge empty lot just as the sky was brightening in preparation for dawn. We walked through the massive, landscaped park that lay between the parking lot and the temple, exclaiming over the fall foliage. The leaves were so dramatic, so vivid and so abundant that frankly I would argue that little Bulgapsan rivals nearby Naejangsan National Park, which is famed for its autumn display!
It seemed like the season had arrived later here in the far south, so the leaves were mostly still on the trees and their colors were just reaching their peak. We met a friendly taxi driver, the only other hiker we saw on the way up. We were hiking too: a slower pace feeling perfectly peaceful on this gorgeous, late fall day. I still broke a sweat on the uphills, but I also really took the time to enjoy the scenery.
I think part of what made Bulgapsan so magical was the dark green grass that grew in abundance on the forest floor. It was so velvety and lush and beautiful, and provided a brilliant backdrop for the contrasting fall colors.
It was honestly mesmerizing, and I was happy right to my very bones. I felt like I wasn’t just witnessing the beauty, but that it was somehow seeping into my soul: making me lighthearted and free and joyful.
We deliberately set out to hike the longest way up: more time to enjoy the magical forest! When we eventually reached the main ridge, it was more like the rest of Korea – the neutral colors of late fall in a forest carpeted by fallen leaves. We saw the orange globe of the sun rise up through the bare branches of the trees.
There were many rocky outcrops that acted as false summits: we’d think we were approaching the top, and then find ourselves just below another rocky rise.
As we celebrated the summit, once we reached it, we were suddenly surprised by the arrival of another couple, who seemed to appear out of nowhere! They told us that they’d driven up to the ridge from the other side.
I looked through the mounted binoculars at distant ridges. A mist completely filled the valley on the opposite side of Bulgapsa. Just behind the main summit area, there was a broad plateau that seemed perfect for peak picnics. We lingered.
We weren’t sure exactly how to descend, but managed to stumble across a new way down. A tiny hermitage beckoned, and then we returned to that magical forest that captured my heart and imagination. Progress was slow, because it was just too beautiful to zip through without appreciating.
I just can’t overstate how gorgeous it was in that forest. And tranquil – heading down, we had it to ourselves once more. We dawdled even more past a little lake and another temple on our way back to the car. Tourists and day hikers had begun to arrive, but the massive, scenic park dispersed them nicely. Finally, we hopped happily back to the car, feeling joyful and satisfied. How could our next mountain, Chukryeongsan, possibly compare to this beauty?
Bulgapsan might be a mini mountain, but it is more wonderful and worthwhile than you might expect!
KNOW AND GO! BULGAPSAN
TRANSPORTATION
Bulgapsan is about an hour to the left of Gwangju, in the western wilds of Jeollado. If you’re coming from Seoul or Busan or somewhere similarly far, Gwangju is a good transit hub.
The mountain belongs to and is technically closest to a town called Yeonggwang. However, unless you’re specifically seeking it out, I doubt you would base yourself there.
Both locations offer local buses to the mountain. From Yeonggwang, take the local bus bound for Bulgapsa temple, and you’ll be at the trailhead in an hour and half. From Gwangju’s bus terminal, local bus 500 will take you to the Geumsan intersection. Stay left and you’ll be on a back route up the mountain in no time!
Bulgapsan is a popular destination for hiking clubs and tourist buses as well. It must be said that taking your own wheels there is mighty convenient…
HIKE & RUN
For small mountain, Bulgapsan features a lot of attractions! There’s a beautiful lake, temple and garden at the foot of the mountain. There’s also a long ridge from which you can, if you choose, wander far away from Bulgapsan!
STAY & EAT
You know, in all honesty, this was another mountain where we just simply didn’t. But you certainly could. This is a pretty rural area of Korea, but there are several small towns nearby, and they do have eateries and motels. However, because Bulgapsan is a small mountain, there are no options at the base. A shame, because I would have loved to linger!
I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again: bring snacks! There’s nothing quite like having the freedom to take a break in a scenic spot on the mountain. Snacks are also a great way to make mountain friends.
As mentioned above, Gwangju is the nearest major hub, though the mountain is not far from the Mokpo/Muan area as well. Other options for your trip!
OTHER NOTES
Bulgapsan is only 516 meters high, but it has all the character of a much larger mountain. Black Yak lists Bulgapsan on its 100 summits list: see it here.
Kent and I hiked a 5 kilometer loop around Bulgapsan that we absolutely loved in November 2018.
Discover more mountains back on the 120 summits main page! Or come with to Chukryeongsan: another lovely mountain we visited on the same day!
I hope you have an excellent time on Bulgapsan and beyond!