Heading down, we finally encountered the hikers belonging to those disembodied voices we’d heard up top. Gakheulsan, despite not belonging to any list of famous mountains, was getting some well-deserved attention. But Gakheulsan, like Myeongseongsan before, was now in our past. Our future lay ahead on Baegunsan (Pocheon) – (백운산(포천)): if we could only find it!
Our quest for Baegunsan (Pocheon) was actually a continuation of a long run we began on Myeongseongsan: read part one here! Maybe you’re just bagging Baegunsans (this was my fourth so named peak just this year!). Or if you’d simply like to know the hardest, weirdest way to get to Baegunsan (Pocheon), read on, my friend!
The route that was supposed to link Myeongseongsan to Baegunsan (Pocheon) began with a gentle descent on a nice, runnable ridge. The air continued to smell strongly of mushrooms in the forest. On the way down, trail signs simply indicated the way to ‘the trail entrance’ rather than any particular destination – which struck me as odd. Luckily, I knew where we were headed!
After a short downhill jaunt, our trail ended at highway #47. There, people were picnicking beside a tourist bus: perhaps we were not in such a remote area after all. Although I very much doubt that any of the other hikers well-dressed, fresh-looking hikers were running our same strange route!
In this populated parking lot, there was a big map about Gakheulsan and the DMZ area in general – but nothing specific about Gwangdeoksan, our next mountain destination. So it seemed we would have a bit of sleuthing to do – and maybe we’d been right about remote!
Our map showed a trail running directly across the road that would lead first to Gwangdeoksan and then on to Baegunsan (Pocheon). But nothing jumped out as a trail on the other side of the road. So this was where we got a little lost. We ran down the road to another parking lot – nothing. Not a hint of a trail. We ran up a side road to a temple, which had a promising trail…that ended in some shrines.
Back down again to the highway, and up one more narrow road. This one was a little eerie. There was a power tower; its tall gates thrown open wide. Behind it, the road led to an abandoned army camp, complete with huge, tank-concealing bunkers.
And it simply continued: it kept going long after it appeared to end on our map. I’d hoped it would turn into a trail right away and ease our uncertainty. It did no such thing. So we ascended, worrying all the while that we were on a wild goose chase; ascending on a forest road that would peter out or terminate suddenly into the mountain face.
Then, two hikers appeared, descending! Feeling hopeful just at the sight of them, we hurried to inquire about Gwangdeoksan. They responded that they thought our trail led there, rather than confirming whether or not they’d just been there. Still, they must have come from somewhere, so we remained encouraged. We ran a little faster.
Finally, the road did become a trail. It was a clear trail, easy to follow – but completely unmarked. There were zero signs or maps, and few ribbons (we saw a total of two rather than the usual dozen plus). This trail had that remote feeling we’d had so often on this run. We climbed past more old bunkers, piled with tires and sandbags.
When we did start to see signs again, they were similar to signs we also saw in Inje, about the Korean War. A Korean friend once told us signs like these indicate possible undiscovered victims from the war deep in primeval forest. Eerie and sad. I said a silent prayer of thanks for the peace and prosperity that allows us to do these things we do. (Respect, and law, dictated not taking any photos in this area.)
We climbed relentlessly, feeling slightly tired from the busy week/big mountain weekend before/two previous mountains! But we were also excited to be exploring this way – covering new territory and approaching a new peak! If we were very lucky, we’d find not only Gwangdeoksan, but a route to Baegunsan (Pocheon)!
But first we found another hiker. Questionable which way this one was going. He was sitting down at the base of a ropes course, soaked in sweat and smoking furiously. He did not seem approachable, so we carried on, the main ridge looming larger and nearer.
Finally, we burst out of the bushes onto that ridge. It quickly became clear that our trail was indeed official – or once was. A signpost at this point of lacked a board pointing in the direction we’d come from. Maybe someone had decided this trail was no longer in service and removed all traces of it?
We didn’t spend too much time wondering about this, however. We were just really happy to be up there and back in the land of signs! As we ran along the ridge, we saw just one couple on a picnic – far from anywhere or anyone.
The ridge was mainly runnable, so we ran it. We weren’t entirely sure what to expect about the peak of Gwangdeoksan, as the map had shown it being closed off around an observatory. But, as it turned out, there was a little bald patch around a huge summit stele! Once again, we had a chance to look back at where we’d come, those emerald ridges and folds concealing so much.
The view was pretty clear, but we couldn’t pick out Baegunsan (Pocheon) ahead, nor could we see the road. But there was a trail down the ridge, so after guzzling the last of my electrolytes in celebration of this beautiful and unexpected peak, we ran on. I hated to hurry, but it was about noon, so we needed to keep moving.
My memory of the next section is a little less clear. To be honest, it’s downright hazy. I don’t know if we encountered other hikers or if there were signs. What I do remember is being really thirsty. I was thinking almost exclusively about the water we hoped to find (at the shelter we hoped was open at the bottom of the next pass on hwy 372).
My next strong memory is of bursting onto a paved road in the middle of some pensions and looking desperately at them, trying to choose which one to approach and beg for water, if necessary. But there was a rest stop – we’d actually seen it when we previewed this road by car at dawn – so we headed straight there.
It was kind of funny to break up our trail run by running first on a paved sidewalk next to the highway, and then into a packed parking lot. Vendors offered up stacks of mountain veggies, varying in freshness from just picked to pickled. That classic old-timey Korean music with the fast beat was blasting.
We located a mart at the very back of the complex, where a group of lycra-clad cyclists sat around the lone table outside. They paused in their energy-drink guzzling to eyeball and ultimately give us multiple sets of thumbs up.
Inside, the grizzled, elderly vendor sold us a couple of icy cold two liter bottles of water (plus a coffee for Kent) and confirmed that we would find Baegunsan (Pocheon) above his shop. I refilled quickly and ran up the set of stairs at the back of the building to preview the trail and snap some pics while Kent got ready (read: caffeinated and rehydrated).
On the final uphill, headed towards the top of Baegunsan (Pocheon), I pushed the pace: I wanted to make good on our training effort. Efforting but smiling, we passed a group of hikers who seemed inspired that we were running. One of them even gave chase, right to the summit!
Baegunsan’s summit stele was enscribed in Chinese, requiring us to double and triple check all of the nearby signs and maps. But we were indeed in the right place: a lovely clearing that doubles as a helipad. We delighted in the scenery. I took off my backpack to frolic, just a little, before we had to descend.
We’d gotten to Baegunsan (Pocheon)’s peak almost miraculously. All that was left to do was run the 4k down to the temple below – and try to get home from there.
The route down was much rougher than the route up from the rest stop, which had been a gradual climb on a dirt surface. The side we were now semi-sliding down was covered in that weird, loose gravel that haunts some Korean peaks – like the first descent on the Korea 50k course. It is so tough to get any kind of purchase at all!
But I got a little insight into this tricky terrain on Baegunsan (Pocheon) as I slipped and skidded my way down. I saw sandbags in places, maybe protecting against erosion of the soil or perhaps once forming steps. Now, the sand spilling out of them made this terrain really technical. I appreciated that above the sand were some friendly ropes that made the going slightly easier.
Dusty and sandy, we burst out of the forest onto a road within sight of both the temple and a parking lot. But we kept going. We ran straight down to the highway before stopping the watch outside of a little shop. We’d been in motion 6 hours and 27 minutes. What a successful day!
In typical KnC fashion of those days, we could not stop to smell the roses. We bought a coke from the shop in exchange for the vendor’s help calling a taxi. It came quickly, while I was mid-stretch, but we were grateful for it. We sped away, chatting with the driver, who was a nice fellow and actually drove us directly to our car, despite the crazy place we’d decided to park it.
By this point it was already 3pm – the time we were supposed to have returned our rental car! But there was nothing we could do. I stashed our stuff, and Kent drove us quickly downhill and onto the highway. He was alert with stress, which in this case was lucky because we had no coffee – just our last two protein bars and an apple.
We blazed down the highway – safely, of course – straight for Chuncheon. The kind folks at the car rental agency didn’t even call us until 4:30: when we were already an hour and a half late. We finally pulled up and hopped out, apologizing all over ourselves, but the kind man in charge said it was okay; that it wouldn’t cost us extra.
Really, this was just our lucky day. We walked to the bus terminal, bought tickets, scoped some rather disappointing snacks at a mart and then took the bus home as the sun set on the day. Fifteen hours after we left, we were finally home again after the great Myeongseongsan to Baegunsan (Pocheon) adventure!
KNOW AND GO! BAEGUNSAN (POCHEON)
TRANSPORTATION
Although not as northerly as Myeongseongsan where we started, Baegunsan (Pocheon) is still really remote. It too lies in that undiscovered triangle between Chuncheon, Pocheon and Cheorwon – the latter pretty undiscovered places themselves!
A quick search doesn’t reveal any regular bus routes. Going with a tour is one way to get it done, or you could select an out-and-back to the summit and take your own wheels.
Although Baegunsan (Pocheon) has a lovely peak, the highlight for me was the adventure of the day: linking two peaks without knowing if we could and really exploring the area (including two bonus peaks)! Despite the challenges involved, I’d highly recommend hiking beyond Baegunsan and getting a taste of this wild and rugged corner of Korea.
HIKE & RUN
As mentioned previously, we really weren’t sure exactly how our plan of running from Myeongseongsan to Baegunsan (Pocheon) would work out. But that was mostly due to the lack of info about the trails in between. The trails on Baegunsan itself are clear and easy to follow.
STAY & EAT
Nearby Dopyeong village apparently has a couple of pensions, but I wouldn’t count on them being open to you.
If you really wish to stay nearby, check out Gungmang Natural Recreation Forest. I haven’t been, but many natural recreation areas in Korea have camping and sometimes dorm-style accommodations in peaceful scenery. (I wanted to offer you a link here, and I will – but not because this one is at all useful but rather simply to demonstrate to you the horrors of advertising on blogs and why I can’t do it like this.)
This area seems tranquil for a stopover stay, but only if you have the wheels, the language skills and your own supplies. Otherwise, you might find it rather challenging and so I’d probably recommend doing some kind of a day trip.
OTHER NOTES
Baegunsan (Pocheon) is on the Korea Forest Service 100 noted mountains list, available here. Like Myeongseongsan, this mountain is on the boundary of Gangwondo, although its listed as being in Gyeonggido.
Kent and I climbed this mountain in September 2018. We ran to it from Myeongseongsan!
Baegunsan (Pocheon) is a relatively high mountain at 904 meters.
If you seek more mountains, head back to the 120 summits main page!